Hello Clare:

I found some rational basis for my recommendation.
That was the publication of commercially applied fertilizer formulas for water solutions used in hydroponic techniques in order to perform rapid mass productions of plant material (Byk & Sonneveld 1981) - For elucidation here I have first averaged the concentrations of 10 formulas which were so remarkably similar - they did not substantially differ from each other, despite of being designed for so different plants as Chrysanthemums, cymbidiums, tomatoes, cucumbers, paprika, green plants and so on...

And then I calculated the resulting ratio of N:P:K - more exactly meaning the ratios of m(N) : m(P2O5) : m(K) (!)

(Kalium = Potassium; see below)

cations:___________mmol/L___mg/L____________mmol/L___mg/L

Kalium K+__________6.0______235___eq K2O____3.0______283
Calcium Ca++_______3.0______120
Magnesium Mg++_____0.75_____18
Ammonium NH4+_____0.5 ______9_____eq N______0.5______7

anions:

Nitrat NO3-________10.5_____651___eq N______10.5_____147
pr.PhosphatH2PO4-__1.5______145___eq P2O5___0.75_____107
Sulfat SO4--________1.0______96

From this recalculated recipe I obtain a ratio group for
m(N) : m(P2O5) : m(K) as
(7+147) : 107 : 283 eq
1.44 : 1.00 : 2.64 or coarsely 1.5 : 1 : 2.5 or a multiple from that for example

4.5 : 3 : 7.5

For my part now -
as to compare that with what I already and actually practise - I use one

6 : 3 : 6

since many years - at 1000 pm ( 1 mL / L ) with every watering, and I feel myself confirmed by its similarity to the calculated ratio above.

I mentioned these aspects yet, already earlier, because Phosphorous is a possibly very dangerous macronutrient when overdosed.
It will at least immobilize essential micronutrients in the substrate thus making them inaccessible for the plant.
Phosphate is far more stable in the substrate as compared to Nitrate and potassium which are so easily washed out.

A miraculous bloom-o-gene booster-feeding formula of - I simply find no rationale for that -
15:30:15 equivalent to for example

4 : 8 : 4

is in my eyes simply grotesque *ggg*

A further confirmation of my "Miracle-Maxi-P" offending point of view *ggg* is that the modern solid German fertilizers of the brand "Hakaphos" are ALL composed on a basis of a rather low phosphorous content at least as compared to Potassium (Kalium).
Compo-Naehrsalzehref>

Hans-Werner

Hans - thank you for such detailed information. It will take me awhile to assimilate it all. Next time I am at the store I will look closer at all the different fertilizers.
Clare

Please report me WHETHER you can really discover fertilizer preparations, either liquid or solid based on a formula which is similar to a multiple of 1-1-2....1-1-1....2-1-2
The essential is that the "middle number" that is the diphosphorous pentoxide content is not surmounting none of the both other macronutrients - neither Nitrogen nor Kaliumoxide.

As I apply fertilizer with EVERY watering long lasting fertilizer components have NO place in my reflections and plannings.

This goes completely conforme with my point-of-view that the ecosphere of substrate and imprisoned roots in one pot is a rather un-natural system. So I do not rely on microbial action which finally might release mineral nutrients from organic matters - in an uncontrolled manner.

This is - only - having justification and place (space) in the free land outdoors, with its comparatively unlimited capacity for the procedures of absorptions and exchanges which have a smoothing effect on the mineral contents which are accessible for the roots and - viewed from the other direction (very important) the roots are EXPOSED (!) to...

Therefore I am with full awareness using (and recommending)this fine and hygienic substrate prepared from coco husks (coco fiber substrate). This substrate contains very little minerals - initially some common salt (NaCl) due to the production procedure, particularly in very cheap brands (!).

-CoCo peat
-adequate pot size
-watering from the bottom
-dilute feeding with every watering
-taking care for enough light and fresh air

make your amaryllis happy and biiig, too.

By respecting these simple rules consequently I am close to reveal the secret of H.papilio x H."Pink Floyd" - in (16 of 18 seedlings as far as I can see) which are now barely 2y old and which will be reposed in some weeks.

Hans-Werner

Hans - thanks again for very detailed information. I will print out the above and put it in my garden file.

So fertilizing in the pot would be different from fertilizing ones in the ground where the roots are not so constrained? Most of mine are in the ground. I buy them from after Christmas sales then plant them in the ground the following spring.
Clare

For roses and for bulbous plants I recommend - from earlier positive experiences in my parent's garden:
Well rotted COW manure.

It is long ago - we used one particular brand which was labelled "California Rinderdung" it was almost dry, almost powdery and odorless and it was very good.

Hans-Werner

Hans - yes I do use that, composted steer manure and also composted chicken manure that I get at the place I buy my fresh eggs. We are in a very agricultural area so I can buy that by the truck load. I use it everywhere and nothing is better than nature.

AAAAHHHH hhhhhaaaaaaa....I finally found a fertilizer close to what you recomend Hans

Turkey Trot 6 4 6

Also I see that Seaweed is 2 5 2, again with high middle #.

Bonemeal is 0 11 0
Bloodmeal is 12 0 0
tomato ripener 11 0 44
These don't look very balanced to me.

Theres a fertilizer for fruit and berries called plumper upper 15 15 30.

Sierra

hello Hans-Werne
I have found a a fertlizer that is called PHOSTROGEN it is water soluble 14-10-27 , then it has element anaylsis NPK Fertlizer 14-4.4-22.4 but is says it has Calcium Oxide Ca0 1%(Ca 0.71% )I can also post the other percentages if that will help . I find it so hard to find a good fertlizer here or do have another sugesstion for me
Thanks
Kenny

14-10-27 is good!
Do not care for these additional specifications, they are appropriate mainly for exciting confusion.

If m(N):m(P2O5):m(K2O) is 14 : 10 : 27
then m(N) : m(P) : m(K) is... a ver
14 : 10 x 62/142 : 27 x 78/94 =
14 : 4.4 : 22.4

I presume that instead of Calcium Oxide this preparation contains 1% Magnesium oxide (in water soluble form as the other nutrients are).

Once Calcium is added a full water solubility of the preparation is no more likely because Calcium and Phosphate form a hardly soluble precipitation.

Hans-Werner

Voilà :

{{gwi:376835}}

oopppsss sorry my response was supposed to be on the fertilizer thread.

Sierra

Phostregen is great for roses too but very pricey.
BUT for Amaryllis,that would be Okay...How much per litre??
would one dilute ??? Jack

a ver:

I dilute liquid 6-3-6 (mass per weight ratio being 1150 g/L) to 1000ppm
that would be 1150 g/L x (6+3+6)/100 x 1000/1000000 =
0.1725 g/L of the macronutrients N, P2O5 and K.

From that I calculate that Phostrogen 14-10-27 should be dissolved to 0.1725 g/L x 100/(14+10+27) = 0.34 g/L applied in every watering.

Hans-Werner

As regards to
"inorganic (mineral) fertilizer into pots"
and
"low phosphorous content of fertilizer"
look what Jim Shields has written
yet MUCH EARLIER than me:

FERTILIZERS - October 21, 2003 href>

Bump! For those curious about fertilizing your amaryllises. =)

Paxfleur - I'm blonde... I'm having trouble translating all that information into a simple form that I can understand! :-) Would you be surprised if I told you I never did well in Science Classes?! I think not!

If some knowledgeable individual would create a formula specifically for Hippeastrums, like a 2 bottle set for blooming and non-blooming periods, and market it... I think the possibility to make a bit of coin is there! It's a product that's needed, and there seem to be lots of Hippi enthusiasts! I'd buy it!

Anyway... if I could translate Sir Hans' formula to an American brand of fertilizer, I'd be a happy camper, indeed!

You see, this is the point where I become really not interested. :o) I just want them to be happy and flower, but to play with mathematical formulas in order to mix the right kind of fertilizer for them... I give up at that point...

Since I'm horrible with numbers and scientific formulas, I about give up, too! I just want a plant food that will adequately feed my bulbs, keep them healthy, and make them grow and flower. I have this feeling that I'm starving them a little... I've bumped up the amount of fertilizer I'm giving them by a bit, and I've added Superthrive to my repertoire... so, I know they're getting vitamins and I think they're a little happier.

I want someone to release amaryllis fertilizer for bloom and for leaf... Case closed. This is what I want. Now deliver!

This differentiation is further complicating the issue.
The buds are preformed in the bulb during the season, and, finally they are only expanded. The quantity of "sexual products" is negligible as compared to the overall mass of the amaryllis plasnt body. Thus, my persional estimation is that you do not take a significant advantage by differentiated fertilization measures!

Okay. Now translate. :o) Does this mean that amarylli should be fertilized with the same thing all the time?

I believe so... it just has to be the right one!

And how do you know if it is the right one? Love sometimes takes time to develop...

While that is entirely true, Soultan, I don't think you have to love the fertilizer you choose, just be willing to live with your choice! :-)

You see, that is already compromise... And once you are willing to take compromises, you are a grown person... Do you want to grow up?

Only enough to be able to pick a good fertilizer! :-)

Okay. You can learn. This knowledge is worth more anyway than History lessons.

That's good, because History was not one of my better subjects in school... Math, History and Science were over my head, for the most part... I learned enough to pass the classes, but not with high grades!

I like to learn about History, when it is about something happening. But when it starts to go to dates and names, I am lost. Who cares who did what on which date? I am only interested in the WHAT, and the effect it triggered. I wish they taught more about Lucretia Borgia, for instance.

I am still searching for the perfect fertilizer recipe!

And, yesterday I had some sudden intuition, some of the Druid's kind I would say *LOL*

IF I dissolved 1 kg of Hakaphos-Spezial (solid, 16-8-22 +3 Mg)
WITH 2 kg of distilled water, and then I added 1 kg of WUXAL (liquid, 8-8-6)
then I should receive 4 kg of a liquid fertilizer with a formula of 6-4-7.
(Can anyone confirm that calculation, please?!)
The formula does - I could not believe it on the first sight - almost perfectly fit to Veronica's recommendations of
14-10-17. Because
6-4-7
x 2,5 =
15-10-17,5 Isn't that magic?!!! *LOL*

This fertilizer would be applied to 1 mL/L of water.

I can neither confirm nor deny your calculations as I am very number-impaired! However, if they can be translated into a ready-to-use, off-the-shelf American brand of fertilizer, I'm all ears!

I'm getting by with Miracle Gro liquid houseplant food at a dilute strength, and adding a drop or two of Superthrive to the fertilizer water every once in a while... most of my plants seem to be relatively happy, and I'm seeing new leaf growth on several, including Papilio and my rooted Plumeria cutting!

Dear Hans-Werner,

After following the logical progression of your calculations, I conclude that, indeed, your Druidically inspired and magical formula of 15-10-17.5 does appear to match Ms. ReadÂs recommendation nearly perfectly. However, my opinion must be tempered by the fact I am a social psychologist not a biologist.

Sind Sie wirklich ein Biologe oder ein Zauberer?

mit besten GrüÃen

Blanca

Unfortunately there occurred a little fault!
In fact, Veronica recommended 14-10-27
(I controlled that on the page 190 of her book "Hippeastrum -The Gardener's Amaryllis")
not 14-10-17.
That formula could be generated - by mixing the above mentioned Hakaphos-Spezial with Potassiumdihydrogenphosphate (to lower the N-P ratio) and Potassiumsulphate (to lower the P-K ratio)! I shall sleep over that and present the calculation when the next of my Druid's intuitions will have inspired me...