Thanks for the link.

Xuan

I would take it with a lot of salt (not a pinch).
If light coloured streeks on the leaves are signe of virus then many of my plants have it. If 110F for one hour kills virus then I should have no virus, as my plants are exposed to up to 120F for many hours a day in summer.
Arif

Interesting but why didn't he just put them in an oven set at 110 degrees instead of the elaborate set up. I also agree 110 may not be hot enough as it's that hot here for days in end and I found a couple plants infected regardless last summer. No sign since i removed them though woohoo! It would be interesting if someone with a scientific background could isolate the virus and expose it to heat to find it's limit.

I find it frighting that he had "18" bulbs that he had determined were virused..were they all from last year or from several years back as well. If they were all new bulbs, they we are all in deep doo doo..

Donna

...and remember that MY virused bulbs, which are being grown in a screened enclosure now, are showing no signs of leaf markings although last summer (when stressed) they were very marked.

I laughed about his setup...good for him! I just did the hot water treatment (for the cuttage) and that was so much easier!

BUT...don't knock him completely. Many great discoveries are made this way. If it was as easy as hot water, we would have all tried it. I was going to run a set of experiments this past winter with antivirals. Unfortunately, time slipped away from me. I do know that mammilian cells have different uptake mechanisms than plant cells...so need to find something that we can get into the bulb...a systemic antiviral!
K

J. T. Sessions approach is not so farfetched.This method has proven successful in other species.As to whether it will translate to bulbs I don't know.
In roses a process named indexing is used to prove that the virus is gone. A growing plant without the disease,but known to be very susceptible and to quickly exhibit symptoms, when infected,is purposely cut or injected with the juice from the stock which underwent the heat process.Googling this will provide some information.
"lakeland fl college rose mosaic virus" Searching "indexing", and "tmv tabacco mosaic virus" might bring some knowledge Also search "heat killing a virus in plants"
Del

Read the statment from(Dr) Malcolm
M Manners
http://www.heritagerosefoundation.org/discus/messages/2/87.html?1137674069

So...

This experiment may not be aesthetically pleasing to the eye but I think this is the right step in the correct direction! There aren't nearly enough studies on this particular plant that is grown by SO many! I have noticed that many breeders claim to have "Virus Free Stock" which has been untrue in my observations, many Hadeco varities show symptoms of virus and they claim to sell clean, virus free plants! I think that it is very likely he could have aquired 18 bulbs containing virus. It is also possible that he has spread it himself!

I'm not exactly sure that this experiment would work considering the above facts, many areas experience incredibly high temps but virus is still prevalant in those areas. It is possiple to use high temps in cuttings because the heat slows down the progression making it possible to have virus-less tips. I'm not exactly sure about this process but you can google it!

Lighter green streaking in a leaf is indication of Mosaic Virus whether is on large or small scale. Typically if you're growing your plants in the ground it spreads to the majority of the others near by so it isn't uncommon to have a yard full of virused plants. Once a plant is moved from it's location the virus is still present in the containing soil which is also an easy way to spread.

I think it's great that have discussions like this, we can come together and share experiences and knowledge and I love that idea ;)

AND WHAT HAPPENS TO THE VIRUSED PLANT?