If this were my bulb, I'd allow it to dry for a couple of days, then dust it with an anti-fungal powder, such as Captan. I'd want to be sure that the medium I put it in was especially fast-draining... I'd use a bonsai mix.

I have found that the particles in bonsai medium are just the right size to allow for air flow to the roots, they don't tend to compact and suffocate the roots, and they allow for very good moisture drainage while still allowing the roots to get what they require.

I might also consider using a touch of rooting hormone powder before planting the bulb, just to help it grow a bit better.

I'd only bottom water, and keep a very close eye on the medium's moisture content.

Thank you very much for posting this surgery! It's very informational!

Thanks for the hints jodik. I will let it dry for a few more days. I don't have Captan and have no idea where I would get some. I did see some Lilly Miller Sulfur Dust in a local store. I could use that as an anti-fungal powder. Would you dust the whole bulb, or just the part likely to be covered in soil? I have seen Bonsai soil. It is worth a try.

I don't know about rooting hormone, but maybe Super Thrive in the water.

Nymph was so pretty when it was blooming this year. It was given to me just last Christmas. It had large leaves. I think part of its problem was that the leaves were so large that when I put it outside after it had finished blooming, the leaves broke off in the wind. Without leaves, the poor thing was in bad shape.

I'm not familiar with sulphur dust... you should be able to find Captan at a well-stocked garden center, or a store like Lowe's or Home Depot... I got mine at a local garden center. The important thing is to be sure what you use is an anti-fungal.

I would only dust the exposed raw flesh from surgery, or any part that was wounded or looked prone to rot. Once potted, I would only water from the bottom to keep any moisture from harming the raw, exposed flesh of the bulb.

Hippeastrum bulbs hate wet feet... they prefer to dry out a bit in between waterings. It's essential to plant them in a medium that drains well, and won't retain too much moisture for too long. Make sure the pot fits the bulb, so the bulb can use up the moisture from watering in a reasonable amount of time... don't over-pot the bulb.

Once it recovers and establishes a few new roots, it should begin pushing up leaves once again. You may have to stake and tie them if they're fairly long. I'd keep it out of direct outdoor sunlight for a little while, just to keep stress at a minimum. Give it a partially shaded, sheltered area to recover in. After it begins to show signs of new growth, feed it with a diluted fertilizer solution. After flowering, hippeastrum bulbs need to be fed and given plenty of light in order to recharge for next bloom season.

My bulbs are confined to indoor space until frost danger is past, and I'm wondering how the leaves will fare once I bring them out for the summer... I will have to make sure they're in a sheltered area, and any with long leaves are staked.

I am pleased to report that Nymph lives. Here are some pictures documenting the progress.

On July 3, about 10 weeks after the initial surgery, I noticed the tip of a new leaf. The arrow points to the tiny tip.

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About 10 days later, on July 13, I got this picture showing two leaves of new growth.

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Nymph continued to grow rapidly after that. Three weeks later on August 2, the two leaves were growing tall and the bulblet had a second leaf.

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Then just last weekend, I got this picture showing a third leaf.

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Time will tell whether it blooms again. If not next year, maybe the one after that. At least it lives and so does the bulblet.

Congratulations! You've successfully saved Nymph! I conducted surgery on a few of my bulbs later last year, and they all are alive and well, growing leaves and thriving! To date, I haven't lost a bulb to rot, although I have had a few worry me a bit!

As for blooming... well, you just never know! Nymph could surprise you and bloom next spring, if you allow it its own schedule... or, with a forced dormancy, it may bloom for you around Christmas. Personally, I'd allow it to recover fully, and grow and bloom at its own pace.

Very nice, though! Good job!

Great documentation, Java!

I think the key is to let the cut/wounded edges dry really good before replanting. Captan does work great and you can order it from Yardiac. One container will last for years. I usually pour a small amount into a ziploc in order to prevent any contamination.

Is it possible that the first red arrow is pointing to what 'used to be' a scape?

Thanks for your efforts. This is wonderful!!!