Minerva will re-bloom in summer..I gave one to my dad about 3 years ago and it is just getting over 2 stalks with 4 flowers each..also every year so far, Estrella blooms in late summer..nothing yet this year..but I'll count Sept as still summer..twice a year, two stalks, 5 to 6 flowers each stalk..I have some healthy looking seedlings growing from Estrella x Fairy Tale and Estrella x Large Noid white (I stole pollen from a plant in a nursery)..the seedling are doing well so far...I sure do wish there was a quick cheap home test we could perform on our suspect hippies to see if they are really virused or not...

Some cybister hybrids are likely to bloom in summer, particularly if being transferred outdoors from a previous good location (bright and warm) indoors.

H.cybister "Chico" x H.papilio
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Hans..
WOW that is Just Gorgeous!! I have 14 seedlings of h.papilio X chico given to me by someone a couple of months ago and they are doing very well..if I end up with something that looks close to your reverse cross I will be a VERY happy camper!!

Donna

Donna, these will all look fabulous.
Raising seedlings from crossbreeding H.Cybister with H.papilio is a rewarding project. I predict, that, from the reciprocal crosspollination origin you will not observe a SYSTEMATIC difference.
I conclude this from my observation after crossbreeding H.papilio and "Pink Floyd" years ago, in either direction. I obtained flowers of very different size, shape and colors, but I could not detect anything that would have allowed me to attribute them into two different groups.

Thus, I am inclined to predict that you achieve the same "result" - but this might NOT apply if you crossbreed Hippeastrums of different ploidy.
I remember that somebody introduced progeny of presumably triploid progeny from
"White" (TET) x H.papilio (DIP)
Assuming that the "impossible" actually occurred
Then the 3n progeny is so-to-say "1n outof H.papilio and 2n out of the White TET".

On the other hand when I crossed
H.papilio x Donau (TET)
or
H.papilio x MinPic (TET)
I received TETS and this means that the progeny is 2n both outof H.papilio and the one respective TET. Thus, the genetic make-up in these is 50% from H.papilio as compared to 1/3 = 33% when H.papilio is the pollen donor on a TET.

The 8th sentence should be corrected to:
"I remember that somebody introduced presumably triploid progeny from..."

Further: The major "disadvantage" of
H.aulicum
H.cybister for example "Chico" and "Reggae"
H.papilio
and all hybrids between these;
furthermore, presumably:
H.calyptratum

is the production of Nectar, in an "undesired Abundance".

H.aulicum, from seeds are just blooming: Them, Jewels, on my balcony!
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Hans
Very nice seedling Chico x papillio
but please tell me what his flower diameter (in centimeters)?
And second - how many seeds you get from the average cross Tet x Dip in a single capsula?
And if the opposite Dip x Tet?

Flower diameter measured from top to bottom is
14-15 cm in (my) H.aulicum
approx. 12-13 cm in "Chico" x H.papilio.

I was NEVER sucessful in crosspollinating, on a TET with pollen from DIP.
For indicating this observation I stated "assuming that the impossible actually occurred" above

Pollination of H.papilio with a TET generally produces lots and lots of seeds, upto 120 but these are all "chaff" - with white and reddish spots and distorted, crippled embryos. However, there are some singles specimens of intact seeds among them - sometimes.

Hans,
my apologies for the question of the Tet x Dip, I did not read carefully the text of previous. English is not my native language.
My aulicum strike - to dry the leaves and sits with 1-2 leaves ...
Yes, I wanted to ask you about seramis is baked clay with fertilizer won? I ask because I have yet to substrates of experimenting.

No it was actually not meant as to blame you:
I simply used the opportunity out of your Question, in order to explain concisely what I meant by "impossible"
As an excellent substrate for (the most of the) Amaryllids I recommend CoCo fiber substrate.
You do not require Seramis (= granules of baked, totally porous clay that takes up almost exactly 25% of water that means 25 mL of water per 100 mL of Seramis) Seramis is almost completely salt-free. I eventually found out that a bottom drainage layer whether Seramis or imporous clay beads do not provide an advantage for bulbs. I exclusivdely use a drainage layer for seedling beds in balcony boxes, where the total height of substrate bed is very high as compared to the size of the young seedlings.
H.aulicum tends to stop growing for a while in summer. Then a bunch of new leaves will appear, and soon afterwards 1 or 2 scapes.

Yeah, I think that to breed some Cybister varieties was used calyptratum (possibly).
;)

Oleg9

You used H. calyptratum to pollinate H. cybister?

Yeah, I think that to breed some Cybister varieties was used calyptratum (possibly).
;)
About Coco fibre substrate.It keeps too much water, it is not always necessary and do not always like plants.
About aulicum summer dormancy.
Yes? Then why are you so they bloom profusely right now?
:)

Oh, I understand, H. calyptratum was used to breed some Cybister varieties? I think 'Evergreen' has calyptratum in it's parentage.

I don't like CoCo peat either, it holds too much water for me and not enough air exchange for the roots considering it doesn't dry quick enough. Besides using it on the hybrids I think it would be very disastrous for any African Amaryllids as they prefer very little to no organic material as well as the Andean clades of Amaryllids (like many Hippeastrum species, Rhodophiala and several others)

The result was a "spoiled phone")))
Do you have a web page a different system.
correction:
Hans,
About Coco fibre substrate.It keeps too much water, it is not always
necessary and do not always like plants.
About aulicum summer dormancy.
Yes? Then why are you so they bloom profusely right now?
:)
joshy,
"You used H. calyptratum to pollinate H. cybister?"
No. Can you ask - why do you ask, please?

LOL! Awesome forthcomings, in this very summer-discussion!

And I have the very best experience with CoCo fibers. With these I could raise Hippeastrums from seeds to bloom, in high percentage, in just two years. Your watering techniques are sub-optimal; that's it.

EITHER rinse from above, thoroughly, until the substrate is totally saturated - (btw CoCo fiber substrate holds 50% of water (50 ml water per 100 mL of Substrate [re-dried, but in the fully expanded state]) - and a lot of water drains out; then let the container ALMOST totally - not totally - dry out: "Cycling"! I apply this technique for seedling boxes, with EVIDENT, experience-PROVEN, MAJOR success -
OR water from the bottom (the majority, the BULK of roots are located at the bottom) but in small quantities, that are being absorbed almost instantly. Repeat this every other day (!) or every day when weather is better and the plants require more water.

All that I have, in ABUNDANCE, shown on the internet was obtained with CoCo fibers as substrate.

The H.aulicum that are right now in bloom "too early" had been "tricked" or "prepared" by a warm, bright location at the windowsill during winter and spring. Then I transferred the container outdoors, on the balcony. I admit that I was surprised though.

Hans,
Thanks, I will gladly and with great interest I read your messages. Also bear their hippies the open air. I have problems with irrigation only in the fall, when not manage to put in the room and they get wet from rain.
On the seedlings so that they bloom in 2 years to raise their year-round. So no backlight lamps intense radiation that can not be.
So I have a question for you: what lamp (name, capacity) do you use and how?
Is it true that if a little light, its spectral composition does not matter, if its a lot - so his spectrum is not important the more?
(joke, but "cum grano veritas")))

When we say coco fiber and coco peat, are we talking about the same thing?
To my interpretation coco fiber is mainly long strands from coco nut fibrus cover and have been in use as stuffing for seats. It holds a little water, where as coco peat is the finely chopped husk, it holds lot of water. Wet coco peat if squeezed releases more than 50% water it is holding.

Thank you for specifying. Coco PEAT is actually the correct term.
Now, in order to make it UNMISTAKEABLE what I mean by "holds a volume water that is 50% its own volume:

I had some re-constituted CoCo peat (=fully expanded after soaking water) dry out, completely, at the air, and then I filled the loose substrate into a 2 Liter pot. Then I gently and thorougly rinsed with water, until total saturation was achieved, and water was dripping from the holes at the bottom. After the excess water was drained out, I measured the increase in weight. It was rather exactly 1 kg. equal to 1 L of water.
I used the same procedure in order to determine the water holding capacity of Seramis.

Yesterday my elaborate response on the light thing was eaten by GardenWeb: They would secretly log me out, while I was submitting my written to the respective Question. Shame on You, GardenWeb, that you sign me out every then and now, without any reason.

Hans,
I assume that they (GW) do not understand jokes )))

Here's a couple of my re-Bloomers
Lima
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Durga Pradham
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Pat,

Very nice flowers!!!!!!

Do you calyptratum epiphytically?

Josh

I had a few surprise re-blooms this summer:

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Charisma in bud - like 2 dolphins nuzzling, don't you think?

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CHarisma

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Dancing Queen

Another DQ is showing a bud now, and I also had Red Lion bloom, but pure red is hard to capture I find, and you all know what RL looks like anyway. It was Christmas in July! :)

Hey Josh,
It is my understanding that H.calyptratum Do grow epiphytically.

One other sibling of H.cybister "Chico" x H.papilio

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Dear Hans-Werner.....those are BEAUTIFUL! I didn't get a single Pap cross to take last year. The seed pods seemed to grow and develop, but they aborted prior to maturing. I'll try again this coming season.
Kristi

I shall crosspollinate with the other sibling, shown above, that is just showing up with a 5-umbel. Shall I obtain seeds then we will see what I can do for you. However, seed pod formation seems RARE, on these cybister/papilio hybrids.

YES PLEASE!
;-)
K

There is coming plenty of "material" to crossbreed with. 5 Scapes from 4 different bulbs.

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wow, just plain spectacular!

Hans, Your crosses still make me drool just so very beautiful!

I have two summer/fall bloomers currently..Rainbow (which I still think is Aphrodite) with a 6" stalk and a 6" pedicel and 2 8" flowers..just lovely..and Cherry Nymph..which bloomed with one stalk earlier this summer with a 9 1/2" stalk with 3 flowers 2 of which are out now and also measure 8". What a nice surprise..

Donna
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We can add Rainbow to the list of short stems this summer along with Anna's lovely Dancing Queen..

Thank you Donna!

Now comes a good one, with the colored veins not ending "blind" on the segments. There is no equivalent to this quality in sight; so I have to selfpollinate, no matters how low the likelihood is that it will "take"

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Hans,

Do you think these re-flower due to papilio progeny?

I must admit that I have no clue, what you are essentially asking!

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2 x 4; My H.aulicum "No.8" is always the last of the siblings to bloom
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Hans,

How can you possibly improve upon the flower in the first picture!!...But, I know you must keep trying..

Donna

Oh, it is rather concise what I have in my mind. Broader segments that overlap, as in H.papilio. Without losing the special formation of the lower segments, that these should be folded again, to include the filaments. And, certainly, 4 florets per scape. A very important point of improvement is sharply marked veins that extend throughout the segment. In order to understand the effect of lines that do not end "blind" (as is in H.papilio), simply compare pictures of H.papilio and "Exotic Star" The same applies for "Giraffe" versus H.papilio. Although the shape of "Giraffe" flowers is conspicuously "weaker" it gains much attractivity through complete venation.

Hans,

I was asking if you thought the plants you have re-bloom because H. papilio is a winter grower so the bulbs bloom at their naturally inherited time?

H. aulicum is a winter grower as well.

Josh

Or they bloom twice because the triggers for H. papilio and the triggers for primarily spring bloomers cause scapes both times..

Hippeastrum cybister is a late spring-summer bloomer naturally, does all your cybister hybrids re-bloom in the fall?

Josh

Okay thank you now I understand. Actually these are not "re"blooming that this would imply that they had already bloomed in Winter/Spring 2010/2011. I had basically neglected these for a long time, and then decided to start over, and so I had not put them to reposal during last winter, but kept them growing instead, and provided with some artificial light (MH) even. I am thrilled how much reward I am just receiving from this extra care, and I just perceived that two other bulbs are producing a scape.

Cybister hybrids bloom all year long in Hawaii. I always have something in bloom, but I am not particularly interested in them for breeding as the flower is a poor lasting type with the entire spike shriveling up quickly.
Papilio while very attractive, also is a poor lasting type.
My goal for breeding is to create log lasting (slower bud to bloom even within the same scape) so the flowers open up individually rather than all at once.
H. Splash does this quite well so a pike lasts for what seems double any other doubles and definitely many singles as well.

I have a summer- rebloomer too!
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Yume Mitai

My balcony box of "Chico" x H.papilio is still outdoors, and there is still new scapes coming.

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Hans,
Easy - very chic!
If would not know the pedigree, one would assume that this seedling cybister x bukasovii ;))

Frank, Your Yume Mitai is very beautiful..I have a Grafitti but it doesn't seem to want to bloom even though is is alive and well. It's a pretty good substitute for the very illusive Yume Mitai..hope your little daughter is making you smile...!

Donna

Of "Grafitti" I love the frilly segments.This is seldom in PAPILIO hybrids.
In fact, the color transition in the specimen of "Chico" x H.papilio made me think of H.bukasovii.I assume that you can create several hybrids, by using H.papilio or hybrids thereof, that will mimic other species Hippeastrums.Not necessarily their shape but the color profile.
The link below provides earlier pictures of the specimen

Here is a link that might be useful: Pictures, in 2008 and 2009

Hello everyone.

Beautiful photos, all.

Hans Werner, I always love to see your crosses. Those are stunning.

I had a few summer re-bloomers, x Johnsonii being the most surprising. Estella didn't exactly RE-bloom; it waited until July to bloom. It was new to me last fall, so maybe it will get on a more typical schedule this year.

Here is 'La Paz,' re-blooming today:
{{gwi:424003}}From Houseplants, fall 2011

I call this clone "super La Paz" because is has larger, more brightly colored and frillier flowers than the other two 'La Paz' I own. These particular blooms haven't been open long enough to frill, yet.

Amanda

Fabulous,colorful performance! I would like to know whether "La Paz" and "Tango" respectively (I consider these the same clone) where created by crossbredding with H.papilio.Thank you for showing, this is unusually deep,intense colors.

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"Chico" x "Giraffe" and "Chico" x H.papilio

That thing has Fangs!

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I would have a difficult time choosing a favorite, Haweha... they're all extremely lovely!

I've had lots of green growth, but no blooms over summer. The last to bloom for me was an unnamed dark red I keep outside in warmer weather, and that one finished flowering in late spring. It's too deep a red to be Red Lion, but I can't put my finger on a precise name.

Wonderful pictures... I've enjoyed looking at them all!

Thank you! The shape of the last is epic, and I just did the

{{gwi:424006}} X {{gwi:424007}}

(I stored pollen)
Thumbs were crossed; now hoping and waiting is angesagt.