Welcome Brant,

Yes, it is advisable to remove the dark skin especially if it is loose, to inspect underneath to make sure there isn't any rot or insects hiding under the skin.

Occasionally, if the skin is extremely tight to the point where you can't remove it without gauging the bulb, then I would leave it. You can gently feel all over the bulb for punky/soft spots which might indicate rot.

The top layer of a newly peeled bulb will eventually turn brown again which is fine, you won't have to peel it again unless you have several layers of loose skin, just makes the bulbs look neater.

Just be prepared for possible mislabed bulbs which happens even with the best of vendors as you're most likely aware if you've been a voyeur on the forumâº

Enjoy your blooms and please share your pictures with us when your flowers bloom!

Donnaâºâºâº

Thank you so much Donna for the warm welcome. I truly hope it is not a mislabeled bulb! Only time will tell and my fingers and toes are crossed :)

I felt around the bulb and it felt very firm and its a good size bulb. I will get it planted tomorrow.

Would anyone here be willing to post my pictures for me if I send them to your email? All I am on is my iPad. Just send me a email and let me know. Thanks again! :)

My first warning for a "newbie" is that this forum is full of information on how to do things "right"...but truthfully if you just buy a "Big Box" bulb and only want it to bloom once, you can probably ignore most of this stuff. Drainage holes or none, peel or don't...you will still get a bloom out of it. Much of the information here is really for folks who buy expensive, exotic Amaryllis and want to keep them blooming for years.

Watch out for:
1.) Bulbs that are already sprouting
2.) Pink on the bulbs. (Possible sign if disease. If you see it, douse the bulb in cinnamon, sulfur or fungicide)

I like to transfer them to a better pot. I also sometimes mix the peat they give you with miracle grow potting mix. Not absolutely necessary. The roots that are brown and shriveled and resemble french onions are dead and can be pulled off, the thicker white ones that resemble bean sprouts are alive and should be kept.

Keep them someplace warm and they sprout faster, but fade faster. You can move them from warm to cool places to adjust the timing of when they bloom.

This post was edited by edlincoln on Mon, Nov 24, 14 at 11:09

Thank you for informative reply. However, I hope this doesn't come across as rude but I would have never reasearched and learned all I could from the countless videos and articles on this forum much less posted a introduction if I was intending to just watch the amaryllis bloom and then throw it away. That is not the kind of plant grower I am. My intentions were to start with a inexpensive and easier amaryllis to learn from and gain experience with it before I invest in a more expensive variety as I believe that's the way it should be since I am just starting out.

Brant,

You're absolutely right, that's the way to start, with the inexpensive bulbs so as to make your mistakes on them as we all have when we just start out! This can turn out to be an expensive hobby.

Donnaâºâº

I used to grow these.

If you give them more light (natural or fluorescent), they'll grow a bit shorter, and therefore, sturdier and balanced.

Otherwise, they'll grow tall and have a tendency to tip over.

After they bloom, cut off the bloom stalk, and allow the foliage to grow. For this, steady and regulated light is necessary, whether inside or outside.

If you want blooms at Christmas, you would force a dormancy by withholding water, starting around the second week in August. You would place the pot in a dark, cool basement or a garage that doesn't freeze, and you would allow it about a 10-12 week rest. Some people will tip the pot on its side so they remember not to water. Once the leaves have died back, they can be removed.

After the 10-12 weeks, check the bulb ... there may some bud growth at this point. In any case, bring it back into a warm, bright room and water it. You should see growth begin shortly.

The natural bloom cycle of a Hippeastrum takes place in spring, so if you choose not to force a dormancy, you can grow your bulb like a houseplant, giving it as much light as possible, and feeding and watering as it requires. With good care, your bulb should bloom in spring. It may not bloom the first spring following purchase, but if conditions are right, the following spring should bring blooms.

Then replant in refreshed soil, and the bulb should bloom in about 12 weeks.

PS. Keep a plant pest spray on hand for the fungus gnats.

This post was edited by aegis500 on Mon, Nov 24, 14 at 18:20

Hi Brant - like you I impulse bought a couple of amaryllis bulb kits from Walmart. I'd had some years ago - that I seem to recall, cutting back when it was appropriate, and putting them back in their boxes, closing them shut and storing in the garage for the six weeks or so rest period. Doing that, I got several years of blooms out of them.

They really are beautiful. Wish our Walmart had a bigger color selection - just Red Lion, Apple Blossom and what seemed to be "Minerva" or similarly colored. A white would have been lovely.

We have a really nice FAQ as a "sticky" at the top of the list with lots of helpful information. You may find something helpful there.
Kristi