Any pot with adequate drainage can be used, and for Hippeastrum bulbs, one with a decent amount of room for root growth is recommended. I'd say... go ahead and use what you've got... as long as there are drainage holes.

As far as medium goes, there are many different schools of thought on what constitutes the best soil for container growing, and while everyone has their own opinions and ideas to share, it's hard to argue with the actual science and physics of what plants need and prefer when it comes right down to it.

Let me begin with one fact... growing in containers is extremely different than growing in a garden/ground environment. A slightly different approach to each is required for optimal success.

After struggling for decades with what the retail market offers in the way of soils, I decided to do a little research on container growing and soils, and what I found blows the retail market right out of the water! Consider the purpose behind any industry, which is profit, and it's easy to understand why their offerings are not necessarily geared to help the consumer succeed.

The very best information I found on container soils has been condensed into an easy to understand article written by a very experienced bonsai grower and general gardener who speaks publicly on the subjects to large groups, and who's advice is in great demand. I've linked his copied article below for your perusal, and it includes discussions and other bits of advice.

After reading the article, don't think that you need to rush out and spend more money right away... give the information a little time to resonate with you and what you already know about growing and plants, and what's logical from a factual standpoint.

Soil is only useful to a plant as support, anchorage, and as a catalyst for moisture and nutrition. A soil should also be loose and offer enough structure and aeration to maintain a decent exchange of oxygen and gases to and from the root area. The finer the particles, the more of a perched water table they will support, which is not conducive to good drainage. A finer soil can actually cause roots to drown, and they can become caught in a cycle of dying and regenerating, as they are watered and dry out, until the plant succumbs to death. A slightly larger particulate comprised of comparably sized inorganic ingredients will offer a better overall environment for the growth of healthy roots. Healthy roots mean healthy plants.

Now that I am aware of the facts versus the fallacies of soils and container growing, what I've done is work toward mixing a variety of ingredients that work for the plants I grow, in the environment I have to grow them in, keeping in mind the amount of time I have to devote to growing.

My own container medium recipe includes:

100% fir bark pieces approx. 1/8 to 1/4 inch in size... coarse perlite... 100% granite chips in comparable size... and a small amount of a good quality potting soil (for extra moisture retention).

Turface is also a very good ingredient for added moisture retention. Other ingredients can be used, such as aliflor, pumice, lava rock... and other growers have their favorite ingredients for using in their own environments, or in keeping with what they can acquire within their local area.

If you must use a finer particled medium, it is suggested that you do not tamp down the soil when planting, which will help maintain aeration temporarily, and that you re-pot on a very regular basis, which will help keep some soil structure in place.

I could literally write a small book on what I've learned, the trials I've been through, the science and actual physics of what happens under the soil surface... and why slightly larger particles are better as container mediums... but I think you'll learn quite a bit just by reading the linked article.

Through my experience, I've found that Hippeastrum bulbs do not like being constantly wet or overly moist at the root zone. They prefer to dry out just a bit in between waterings. The roots much prefer a medium with decent structure, good aeration, and excellent drainage capabilities.

I hope I've piqued your interest in learning a little more about the soils we use in container growing. We're definitely not locked into what the retail market wants us to buy. We can mix our own mediums with relative ease, and boost our growing success by leaps and bounds!

The retail market thrives as is because most people don't put more than an average amount of research into what they're doing, and they trust the industry to give them what they need. If we all learned more about the basic science of growing, I can guarantee that the market would have to adapt to our level of knowledge. You would see the items offered change as sales dropped. Marketing experts would research what it was the public was looking for, and to gain that profit, they would have to offer what we would buy.

I would imagine that's why the fallacy of a "green thumb" exists... because a lot of people think it takes luck to grow things successfully. That's not true, though. All it takes is knowledge. A green thumb is just knowledge. And the same simple basics apply for all plants.

Have fun growing your bulbs! And if we can help you further, we'd be happy to try! We'd also love to see photos of your bulbs in flower!

Here is a link that might be useful: Container Soils - Water Movement & Retention XIV

Hopefully, the attached article at the bottom link will answer all your other questions. It contains good tips and information for re-blooming Hippeastrum bulbs.

From the article: "If you want flowers for the holidays, you'll need to begin its dormant period by mid August. Withhold water, and move the pots to a location where they can be kept around 55 degrees F."

And then: "Check the bulb every week; after eight to ten weeks of cool storage, you should notice the tip of the new flower stalk emerging from the bulb."

However...

Since you have pre-chilled bulbs ready for THIS Holiday season, you'll need to know when to pot them up and begin watering to force bloom for THIS Christmas.

According to a bulb forcing table I found, the time will vary depending on bulb variety, conditions, and other variables. I don't think there is a way to be exactly precise. The table at the link below says 5-10 weeks, and "Very easy to force; can be planted in early November for Christmas blooming, or later, for early spring blooming."

http://www.theplantexpert.com/springbulbs/Forcing.html

White Flower Farm says growth should begin in 2-8 weeks, link here:

http://www.whiteflowerfarm.com/growing-amaryllis-bulbs.html

Gardener's Supply says "Amaryllis: Blooms appear six to eight weeks after planting." Here's their link:

http://www.gardeners.com/Growing-Bulbs-Indoors/5158,default,pg.html

So, there appears to be very little pinpointing when it comes to forcing Amaryllis... although, I would probably take an average after reading what several different sources had to say.

On summering your potted bulbs...

When the danger of frost is past in spring, I bring some of my potted tender bulbs outdoors to spend summer. I place them in a protected area where they receive mostly morning sunshine, and I'm careful to check the pots frequently to see if they require watering.

I'm careful to bring the pots indoors before any danger of frost is imminent. Amaryllis, or Hippeastrum, bulbs are tender and cannot handle freezing.

To further confuse you, I don't go through any un-potting or forcing of dormancy with my own bulbs. I treat them like any other houseplant, allowing them to grow and rest as they see fit. Generally speaking, my bulbs will bloom in spring or early summer, after which they will need time, sunshine, and nutrition to recharge, kind of like a battery. They tend to rest over winter, and I'll notice growth slowing, leaves dying back. At this point, I ease back on the amount of moisture I give them and let them rest. As the days lengthen in spring, renewed growth resumes.

There are several schools of thought on how best to grow and rebloom Hippeastrum bulbs... my own methods center on allowing Mother Nature to do as she wishes. Because I use a mostly inorganic medium that holds its structure well, I can re-pot every two or three years, or as necessary. I usually do so in early spring before they bloom, when I'm moving them outdoors.

I hope this gives you some food for thought. And if you need further information, we're happy to provide it for you.

Here is a link that might be useful: How To Make Your Amaryllis Bloom Again

Thank you very much, Jodik. I do appreciate the time it took for you to think about my questions, and your answers. I will use the rose pots, and plant the bulbs within the next few days. I will use the soil I have, and maybe supplement one time with a weak liquid fertilizer solution. If I get some pretty blooms, I will post the photos. I cannot wait!

It's no problem to share information on something I love, and I do love growing things! :-)

On nutrition...

Again, there are many schools of thought on proper plant nutrition, but I have found that maintaining a sort of buffet for my plants works best. I water with a weak solution of Miracle Gro liquid all purpose plant food mixed into the water I use at about 1/4 strength. I use this every time my plants need to be watered. This ensures that there is always food available.

Occasionally, I flush them with plain, clear water... just as a precaution, to remove any built up salts and minerals. However, since I have been using a more inorganic medium, I notice that there isn't a build up of the salts normally seen clinging to the outside of terra cotta pots when using a finer bagged soil.

So, while I am watering a little more often because of the medium I use, I've eliminated the issue of salt and mineral build up. I'm also flushing the pots on a regular basis just through the act of proper watering. As an aside, I'm getting a good exchange of fresh oxygen and gases at the same time, the action of the water pushing out the gases created by the roots, and pulling in fresh oxygen that roots need to "breathe".

The only thing I would caution against using in a container environment would be any organic fertilizers that are not broken down already and immediately usable to the plant. But any regular all purpose liquid plant food should be fine for using. The very best is Foliage Pro, because it's better formulated, immediately usable, and already contains the micro-nutrients plants need.

I don't have Foliage Pro at the moment, so I use Miracle Gro liquid... and I add a source of micro-nutrients.

There's no reason to purchase anything extra... unless you're already in the market for fertilizer... in which case, I'd recommend getting the Foliage Pro above any other brand name. Bloom boosters and other specialty concoctions are just sales tricks, and most are not worth the effort or money spent. Research shows, and the industry admits, that it's easier to give the public what they think they need than it is to re-educate that public.

Bottom line is... if you already have an all purpose liquid, that will do fine.