Since I feel like I got some of the first bulbs and forced them to bloom over 1 month ago for my demo talk, I'd let you know that it seems like the virus has hit some of the growers in Holland. Since I ordered 100 bulbs and they came to me in growers bags/boxes....I think we are looking at a big problems. SO...for those of you who are burning bulbs, get the Kleenex out now!! It's not going to be pretty!

I have just received my more "high end" bulbs, and am being very careful with them. The affected pot was kept on the other side of the house, and as the leave emerge, they are looking very "mosaic stricken". The precious new bulbs are coming right into the house...no sucking insects there (unless you count the setters...they are "bugs" that eat anything)!

FYI...those on the list that bought bulbs from me are getting their checks back - Nothing has been shipped yet as I was waiting for this week's cool down! This whole thing makes me very sad...and makes me more driven to see what (if anything) I can do to reduce the viral load. At least I have more sacraficial bulbs! I'd rather kill a $4 bulb than something pricier.

SIGH...Kristi

Donna

Hadeco has a very strict regimen of their plant quality, apparently they test plants for virus and they claim most of their hybrids are disease resistant. They also claim that they TC their stock to ensure it is disease free. I'm not actually sure how much stock you can put into that, I've been really paying attention to my bulbs and luckily I haven't noticed any signs, this doesn't mean virus isn't there tho.. Kristi, maybe you should contact them to see what they'll say! Send pictures, you should post some here as well like Donna suggested!

Donna, bulbs can show symptoms at any time whether they're newly growing or on the verge of dormancy.

Josh

"To ensure the highest standard in plant breeding, Hadeco produces virus-free mother stock in its laboratory using the Meristem tip culture tissue process. The healthy plants produced in this way are mass-produced through tissue culture."

This was posted under their "Research And Development"

Here are some leaves. Bulbs started blooming 10/14. They were planted the 3rd week of September, so these are about 2 months from planting.
UGH!
K

Now that I see the red bumps...I am hopeful that it's something less distressing than virus. Looking at the leaves up close...I'm note sure anymore!>THOUGHTS?

Would be interested to know if any grower/distributor/reseller guarantees their bulbs to be virus-free.
K

I don't really think this looks to be virus either, I'm thinking mites as well, look around for mealy bugs! I just found mealy bugs on my Hippeastrum mandonii, I am SO happy that I didn't throw it away!!!!!!!

Kristi, inspect the bulb thoroughly and see if you can find any little bugs!

THOUGHTS?
K

The bulbs in the fridge I'd assume would be okay, just anyone who got them should probably spritz them from time to time! I've only found mealy bugs on my H. mandonii, I'm not sure where they come from! Mealy bugs look like white caterpillars but very small! Look around the neck of the bulbs especially!

Josh

A few things I have done:

1. Separate possible infected bulbs from all the rest of the bulbs.
2. Remove excess dry bulb outer layers/scales (bugs tend to hide in them)
3. Thoroughly water the bulb... wait and watch the dirt and bulb (watch for little bugs fleeing the water on the bulb, dirt and edges of the pot)
4. Spray thoroughly with a powerful insecticide that kills thrips or other possible evil bugs you have. (Spray the dirt, bulb, leaves, and pot edges...it is better to be generous with the insecticide)
5. Repeat steps 2-4 at least once a week. If possible use two different insecticides and swap which you use each week. This long process is to kill the adult bugs and the eggs of bugs.

Continue the process till:
1. You do not see the bugs fleeing when you water.
2. Repeat the process at least 3 times (three weeks) if not more.

Alternatives (these can be expensive):
1. Use good Nematodes to kill the eggs of thips.
2. Use pirate bugs (yes that is the name of the bug) to kill the adult thrips.

Side notes: organic insecticides have not worked for me.

Sorry if this is overly long and preachy. I am only sharing what I myself have done and found out by researching this problem.

AJ

Anyhow, I isolated the questionable ones in my old workroom under lights so I can observe. The obviously mosaic ones were removed..
Perhaps you could send in one leaf for testing to the place that other scientist did? Do you have room to grow your "For sale" ones while you have the testing done?

The other thing I would suggest is to look at a leaf under a strong magnifying lens and look for insect bites where it is discolored.

Hope it is just nusiancy bugs.

Interestingly, the bare bulbs that I purchased in the past were all healthy (in this regard) and so were the DIP Hippeastrums that I would obtain these as potted plants. Mosaic infected bulbs were exclusively potted TETs. For example "Salmon" and "Intokazi" that I remind to have to regretfully DISCARD them on the spot once that I got awareness.

BUT this reminds me of another interesting observation: I used the pollen of both specimens to dust my own hybrid "PapDon2" (in 2006) and none of the respective seedlings show mosaic.

and so were the DIP Hippeastrums that I would obtain these as potted plants

by

"and so were the DIP Hippeastrums that I would obtain as potted plants"

(namely, FREE from mosaic virus)

Your English is really very good and what you meant to say was clear AND quite interesting.

Before reading your observation, I thought that using pollen from Hippeastrum bulbs, which are infected with Mosaic Virus, could transmit the virus to uninfected pollen recipients (i.e., seed parents).

Fortunately, I have never seen signs of MV in any of my bulbs. However, I do battle pesky mealy bugs. At least, they are controllable with persistence.

Cheers,

Blanca

Denver Ryan (I think I may be TET ploidy LOL)

Blanca is correct, using pollen from a virus containing plant can transmit the virus to the seed parent. Virus doesn't cross into the embryo of the seed, not until it's transferred once germinated by dirty potting medium, insects, tools or hands. It is best that the virused plant be the seed parent to avoid transmission.

To the timepoint that I used the pollen of these two knight Star lilies I did not even know that they were infected. Luckily the mother bulb of "PapDon2" that I pollinated with these both kinds of "potentially infected" pollen did not become infected... OR, be it that PapDon2 is simply "resistant" Idk! *g*
I simply report what I observed. This might ADD to already existing- and/or further suggestions from others, in order to perhaps eventually provide a suggestion that is with likeliness accurate and correct. Upto now, I did not recommend anything in this very regard, but to discard any mosaic-ed bulb ASAP.
What I can loud- and clearly say is, that mosaic is not very contagious, that this strictly applies but for indoors' conditions IOW: Without consideration of APHIDS.

Donna

Ryan

fighting MV is like beating back the sea with a broom or catching smoke.

Ryan

Josh

Denver Ryan

Yes, it's Gnatrol! It's harmless for your plants, that's why it's so wonderful!!!!!!! I think it would be good to use frequently to keep NBF at bay! It does work quickly as well ;)

Josh

I haaaaaate gnats.

DR

I'd really like to talk to you about your cultivation, I'm really interested in the Hydroponic stuff, it seems much cleaner!

Josh

How come... you doubt the observation that I witnessed this with my own eyes - this defies my comprehension... *g*

The fact that the maggot of the big narcissus fly, Merodon species invades through the basal plate, generally of considerably bigger bulbs, but sometimes of tiny bulbs such as cherry-sized knight star lily seedling bulbs or even snowdrops Galanthus also, does not contradict an analogous action by the larvae of fungus gnats.
I even retrieved an official warning about the possible impact of these insects, as regards the commercial propagation of plants, where it was explicitly mentioned that the maggots of fungus gnats drill themselves into CUTTINGS.