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Posted by hippifan 8 (My Page) on
Sat, Dec 8, 12 at 7:57

Hello everybody,

Long time ago that I wrote something. I'm still keeping my amaryllisses. Three gave bloom this year, two didn't. I hope that they all will bloom next year. They're dying back already so I'm curious.

A question: I read somewhere that when the bulb is kept to warm the 'headbud' wil abort. (is it the right name?) But the 'side'-buds will sprout then, so you have a klister. Is it then possible to cut out the headbud with a knife and get the same result? Or is it nonsense?

Kind regards,


Follow-Up Postings:

RE: klister

Do you mean the main bulb and the offsets? I don't think growing a bulb as an evergreen, in the house keeping it relatively warm, will kill the mother bulb, if that's what you mean.


RE: klister

I mean that if I would cut out the heart of the bulb get the same result as written in that book, so that de bulb will produce offsets.

RE: klister

I don't know what book you are referring to. Seems pretty harsh to me. I have read that some have notched above the basal plate and believe that encourages more offsets. You could always get a cheap bulb and experiment.

RE: klister

Hi Hippifan,

I probably wouldn't core out the heart of the bulb, as it would put too much stress on the bulb. If you want to increase the number of side bulbs (offsets) you could carefully make small cuts/scores on the basal plate, let them cure a bit then plant the bulb in a well draining mix. This technique has been used in the past by commercial growers to vegetively increase their stock of a specific variety. I know this technique works very well for hyacinths and their relatives, but it should work very well for any true bulb that produces a basal plate as well.

Another technique is called twin scaling (some folks call it cuttage), in which the bulb is cut into wedges, allowed to dry/cure a bit and planted in warm environment until the bulblets develop along basal plate where the cuts were made.

Warm Regards,

RE: klister

Thanks for all responses. I'll perhaps try to make cuts on the basal plate. And yes Kristi, just experiment with a cheap bulb!

Regards Hippifan

RE: klister

I was forced into cuttage on a bulb I got several years ago... it had major rot. I managed to salvage a few pieces, and they're still alive, though they haven't grown as much as I'd have liked, mainly because I haven't taken the pot outside to get the help from Mother Nature it needs. But it does work as an option.

I'd practice on a cheap bulb, making cuts as Kristi recommends. She's very knowledgeable.

I've never heard of cutting the heart out of a bulb, though... I don't know that I'd want to try that, except as an experiment on a cheap bulb I didn't mind losing.

RE: klister : slivering new bulbs without killing the mother

Slivering was recorded on the old hippeastrum page of IBS Gallery ofthe World's Bulbs. I don't know if itis still there. I have had up to 18 baby bulbs with thr mother bulb continuig to bloom each spring ::
Hold the bulb so that the leaves of one side curl toward you. Cut a small wedge from the left and right "corners" of the bulb. Turn to tbe other side of the bulb and do the same. The wedges are vertical and should include parts of the basal plate, roots/root crown,, and bulb scales. Replant the bulb so thr widest part of the bulb is the soil line. Water once a month in thegarden or outdoor pot in warm weather.
Lay the wedges on a flat side and cut a thin sliver starting at the outer curve of the wedges toward the inner narrow edge ofthe wedge. Plant the slivers flat in a sprouting tray with the root portion just under the soiland the leafdirection jusy above the soil . Use dilute chamomille tea
in a mist/spray to irri gate everyfay until the slivers grow new root & leaf. This or a fungicide will prevent wilt. Bill Warren

RE: klister

Bill, do you have any photos of the process you're describing? Thanks! -Tina

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