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'Near Tears in HD' VOLUME 2

Posted by patann Z5 AnnArborMI (My Page) on
Mon, Dec 14, 09 at 21:56

Long story short, I am starting this extension to Kristi's post because I have a single processor laptop and in trying to send this message on the original 'Near Tears in HD' post, I goofed something up and now I cannot even open her initial post.

It is the nubbins mentioned in the original post that have kept me from returning my bulb to HD. I powdered the greenish/bluish mold on what is left of my basal plate with an old captan/malathion mix I have and the nubbins are growing through. But what I really have been trying to do is show you the two replies I received from the growing company in Virginia. One reply was through their website, the other directly via Email. Here they are:

"Dear Pat Moore,
Below you will find more information about the topics you expressed interest in:
Question: The (Tulip) bulbs show some penicillin spots (moldy spots). What should I do?
Answer: There is no problem with the bulbs. Penicillin forms on small wounds like a scab. It is a natural reaction if the bulbs have been damaged during the planting or digging period. If it really annoys you to have penicillin, you can always rinse the bulb with some water and or wipe the penicillin off with a small brush.
Question: I just bought your Amaryllis on a vase. Please tell me more?
Answer: The Amaryllis: Of all bulbs, amaryllis is the easiest to bring to bloom. This can be accomplished indoor over an extended period of time. The amaryllis originated in South America\'s tropical regions and has the botanical name Hippeastrum. The large flowers and ease with which they can be brought to bloom make amaryllis popular and in demand worldwide.
Water/Dry: The base of the bulb should be kept humid. Keep the sand layer wet by adding just enough to saturate the sand with water. Remember, if you dont want to start growing the bulb immediately after receiving them; store them at a cool temperature between 40-50 degrees F
Amaryllises can also grow dry without water. However the flowers will grow larger with water.
After-Flowering: After the amaryllis has stopped flowering, it can be made to flower again. Cut the old flowers from the stem after flowering, and when the stem starts to sag, cut it back to the top of the bulb. Continue to keep water as normal all summer, or for at least 5-6 months, allowing the leaves to fully develop and grow. When the leaves begin to yellow, which normally occurs in the early fall, cut the leaves back to about 2 inches from the top of the bulb and remove the bulb from the soil.
Bulb Storage: Clean the bulb and place it in a cool (40-50 deg. F), dark place such as the crisper of your refrigerator for a minimum of 6 weeks. Caution: Do not store amaryllis bulbs in a refrigerator that contains apples, this will sterilize the bulbs. Store the bulbs for a minimum of 6 weeks. Plant Again. After 6 weeks you may remove bulbs whenever you would like to plant them. Plant bulbs 8 weeks before you would like them to bloom.
Thank you for your interest in our "Long Life Flowers".
Bloomaker Customer Service"

and

"In question No. 2, what "sand layer" are you referring to?
The bulb/vase/river pebbles that I purchased at Home Depot had the basal plant cut off, no roots, and a green fungus or mold where the basal plate was removed. I didn't discover this until I got it home. I want to return the bulb to HD, but would you tell me why the basal plate was cut off?
Pat Moore
SE MIchigan

Pat,
The cutting of the root plate of the bulb is part of our special preparation we give the bulbs. This will make them grow and flower better.
The fungus is not harmful.
Kind regards,
Customer Service"


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