If leakage is of concern in the future a drain pan can be made, similar to the ones you put under a water heater or washing machine. If you want a further explaination I'll get it to you. Is the 25H fixable? Are you sure that it is a seal or crack that caused the leak? Sometimes water can leak from a filter or other equipt. and run down the sides. This happened to me once (or more).---- any suggestions on heavier tanks and plush carpet? Use 3/4" plywood under the stand.---i hear also about putting foam board b/t the tank and stand. never heard of this before. is this my mistake? --Not really necessary for a "standard" set up. Usually with aquariums with alot of sand and rock work like reef or rift lakes its a good idea.---is this my mistake? trying to level the stand? my tank wasn't off level by much. dh is determined the stand "flexed" b/c it was made of pine, despite beingmade for an 25 high aquarium? Sometimes store bought stands are not that good of quality. One reason I make my own. But isn't this one an old kitchen cabinet? or is that someone else? Pine is the softer of the hardwoods but is very strong as long as its assembled properly.--bad news: today, carpet is stained from the tannin water, and he seems to be reconsidering. another issue is that the carpet is too plush, but the only room i can put a tank in :( -- Use a good stain lifter like "Resolve" or similar then a carpet extractor (if necessary) like the ones they rent at the grocery stores (they do around here anyway). Use the pre-treat suff and then the regular cleaner. -----but, a light shines! dh took me to look at tanks and kept drawing to the 75...talked like he was going to buy the tank for me and that was his intention. :)- sounds like this is a blessing in diguise. I like 75G its a good size and wider than the 55G so it gives good depth perception and a natural look when aquascaped. It also will give extra room to your angels that they will appreciate. If you can fix the 25H it would make a nice QT. Also, 75G is perfect size to use standard fluorescent shoplights. They are actually cheaper then smaller sized ones. Are you sure you didn't poke a hole in the 25H as an excuse to get this.

If it's a wood stand it shouldn't have 4 points that contact the floor. It should have a flat bottom or frame rails that mimic the outside deminsions of the tank. This evenly distributes the weight. The type of carpet doesn't matter as it will compress equealy. If the floor is level the tank will be level. Wood shims can be used if it's not. Usually poured concrete tends to be self leveling. If the stand is properly made it shouldn't flex. If a good stand is expensive pay a carpenter to build one from 2x4's and cover with plywood sheeting. Tell him strenght is more important than looks. Have you tried steam cleaning the carpet? I had about a 50 gal spill [240gal tank] on my white bedroom carpet, lucky it was salt water, the rug has never looked more white. Took days to dry though.

"Are you sure you didn't poke a hole in the 25H as an excuse to get this"--- lol!

nope. and i am positive that the leak is at the bottom seals. no water was dripping down the sides. the water was seeping "up" from the bottom trim, then dribbling down. if i pressed on the trim, it built up again.

the stand was a purchased aquarium stand, and not a cabinet.

james, so not having 4 points that contact the floor- does this mean a heavily built oak table with (4) >4"x>4" legs will not do? or are you referring to "floor" as the floor of the tank? on the carpet, i do not know why, but the carpet did not evenly compress???????? i did plan on steam cleaning. now, i may have waited too long. i had other issues taking precedence, unfortunately.

regarding those issues, i may not be able to get another aquarium now. presently, 2 silver dollar sized angels, 2 corydoras aenus, and 1 corydoras nanus (?) are in a 10 gal with my aquaclear 30 on low. any suggestions for these fish in a 10 gal tank? one angel is a veil tail and i am afraid of stunting fins.
thanks woe and james!

Most wood stands either use a flat bottom with the frame on top or the framing wood in the demension of the tank directly on the floor. These styles distribute the weight better than a table with 4 legs. They usually won't sway a much when pushed. A table is more like the wrought iron stands with all the weight on the corners. If its build sturdy either style works OK, especially on a concrete floor. Go for the new big tank and a good stand. You should get years [10+] of trouble free enjoyment. Fish health is an entirely different matter. That's where the work comes in.

lnow, why on earth am i getting logged out when i was just on another forum??? oh the eternal questions.

thanks james! perhaps our slab isn't level. it is very odd that the weight sank in unevenly, especially at the front right corner.

from memory: the stand has framing (which spot i don't know), with a bottom shelf enclosed behind a door. the top has an inside edge and an outside edge that the aquarium bottom fits just so..the inside edge being underneath the tank taller than the front edge to prevent slippage. it is a typical pine stand stained oak from all glass (i think).

thanks for your tips!

Area rugs. The great thing about a carpet wall to wall that you don't like is - that you can use it for extra warmth, noise control if needed,and place area rugs THAT YOU DO LIKE on top, any size or layered like in Eastern nations.... If shag it will flatten eventually. Best Sherry

good idea! i have to admit, that is the only carpet that i don't feel the icy sting of winter concrete slab on my feet.

i want your positive attitude! and, i am starting to practice: an area rug will also hide the stain if i can't get it out, and if i ever try...

Make sure its big enough for a 75G.

lol... i was thinking just big enough to extend beyond a new tank, catching drips, etc. :)