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gardenut213

plants & lighting

gardenut213
17 years ago

I am posting this message for my husband, I hope you folks here at the aquarium forum can help us!

My husband has a 100-gallon freshwater aquarium; set-up with a wet/dry filtration system. We have a UV Sterilzer, and the lighting is 300-watt metal halide. Temperature is a constant 76 degrees. The tank has been set-up for 7 years, but in the past 6 months we added several live plants.

Types of plants are swords, nanos, java moss, tiger lotus, aponogetons, cryptocoryne, (please forgive any spelling errors.) Fish are rainbows, angels, gouramis, and tetras, with some catfish and algae eaters as well.

His problem is string algae which seems to be coating the plants and rocks. (He does water changes every 4 weeks) and the plants are fed monthly.

We were instructed that there might be some initial growth of algae when the new lights were installed. However, there seems to be no change, if anything, the algae problem is worse. The lights are on 10 hours per day, and the light canopy is 7 inches above the water.

We have placed some barley straw inside the filter in the hopes of combating the algae growth (this was just done 3 days ago.)

Our questions are:

1) would the addition of phosphorus help reduce the algae growth (without harming the plants)? Someone recommended 1 cup per 75 gallons.

2) Should he remove the plants as a last resort and attempt to clean off the algae? They are somewhat established however.

3) Should he reduce the time the lights are on/or reduce the fertilizer for the plants?

4) Do you think we should consider purchasing a CO2 unit?

Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks!

Comments (5)

  • petiolaris
    17 years ago

    Algae is a function of light and nutrients, particularly Nitrogen. Reducing light or having competing light spin things in the right direction. Having algae eating fish, like Plecostomus, Mollys, and Otocynclus Cats also help. I've never used a CO2 Unit, but have read of conflicting opinions as to how helpful it was toward the end of having lush, green plants. I got the impression that it was a challenge keeping the natural cycle of photsynthesis and respiration in balance. Can you manually remove / scrape any of the algae? You could try setting up a small tank for temporary housing should you decide to clean the main tank thoroughly. I would try manually removing what you can and reducing the light a tad and see how it goes first.

  • james_ny
    17 years ago

    I would not add any fertilizer [I assume your useing a liquid fertilizer]. The alge should slowly die off.

  • botanical_bill
    17 years ago

    Once the plants start to fill in the tank, they will suck the nitrogen out of the water. This will then help reduce the algea. I agree with james ny, stop fertilizing till it starts to subside.


    You may want to look into getting some type of hygrophilia just because they are extreamly fast growing plants and this will help suck the nutrients out of the water. Another good one that I have going out of control in my tank is Ceratopteris siliquosa. Very very fast growing. You will need about nutral water, +- 1/2 ph, for this one. One plant in my tank roots off medium floating replicas of it self about five times a month.


    I replaced my substrate and boosted my lighting. I had a big algea bloom, it went away in about 2 weeks, in that time some of my plants doubled in size.

  • boarak
    17 years ago

    I would second the opinion about adding some fast growing plants like hygro, or even hornwort. They act like a nutrient sponge and can out compete the algae for nutrients until the other plants can catch up abit. Besides your swords, your selection is slower growing and is being out competed, possibly due to...

    A. Too much light... I'm wondering if your halide is one bulb? or two? And also what the color temp is? 5Kish? 10 or even 20K? Those higher temperature bulbs are desinged for reef aquariums and are not so great for freshwater plants, except algae... of course. I'm also thinking your photoperiod is a tad bit too long, try cutting back to eight hours. Halide is very intense stuff!

    Or B... I'm thinking you might have some junky water. I know that my local tap water, and many others, is very high in phosphates which is like miraclegro for algae. Before you jump into CO2, I would test your water for it and possibly consider a reverse osmosis/deionizer filter for your tap. I know it had made all the difference for me, and you have a source of healthy water for you as well!

    CO2 can be tricky, and complicated... particularly in large tanks like yours. And with a wet/dry filter not really worth it- most of your co2 would dissapate through the filter.

    Cheers

  • gardenut213
    Original Author
    17 years ago

    Many thanks to all for your replies. My husband was so impressed that he registered for GardenWeb himself. We have cleaned off all the existing algae, planted some additional plants, tested the water and reduced both the feeding of the fish and the plants. It's been a little over a week, no sign of any additional growth. Thanks again!

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