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susanlynne48

C. Gigantea-More Research on the Way!

susanlynne48
18 years ago

Julius Boos on Aroid-L says this:

"Thanks---to put this in a nutshell, it is suspected and confirmed by

the

1988 testing that the ORIGINAL collected plant was a hybrid between two

COLOCASIA species, C. esculenta X C. gigantia, not between a Colocasia

X

Alocasia. AND--a cross between Alocasia brsibanensis X Colocasia

esculenta was made by man, ONE seed developed into ONE plant. This

confirms that a cross is remotely possible between these two seemingly

closely related genera, in which the dividing lines between these two

genera

are still vague, and that it is easier for two different species within

the

SAME genus can and will cross."

As Tony Avent concurs, C. gigantea has more characteristics of an alocasia and more research should tell us more about its origin.

THought some of you might be interested. Let me know if I got this wrong somehow.

Susan

Comments (8)

  • keiko2
    18 years ago

    Susan,
    I don't think you got this wrong, but this debate has been going on for 20+ years. I'm surprised that they use the term 'original plant', since the one generally identified as C.g. has been growing wild in Yunnan for centuries.

    It does occur among native populations of both Alocasia and Colocasia, but at one time the Asian botanists did enough genetic work on the Yunnan populationm to feel sure that it was not Alocasia X Colocasia. Nor did they think it really belonged with Colocasia, but was perhaps a separate Genus entirely, like Remustia is currently listed.

    My take on the discrepancies is that they are dealing with plants that are very similar in appearence, but not genetically the same.

    As a more practical matter, the plants I bought as C. gigantea don't do well at all when grown as Colocasia, but thrive in raised beds of fast draining sand and leaf mold.

    Keiko

  • susanlynne48
    Original Author
    18 years ago

    Mmmmm. I have C. gigantea 'Thai Giant'. It is a new plant from last year. I located it in an area of my garden that has a lot of sand in the soil, and amended it somewhat with orchid bark, chicken manure, etc.

    Do you think that should do it for drainage? C. macrorhiza is next to it, as is acanthus mollis, and others of my part shade garden.

    Susan

  • keiko2
    18 years ago

    Susan,
    I think the ammount of organic material best will vary considerably with soil type- more in loose fast draining sand and less to none in heavy gooey soil like mine.

    I first started building raised beds by tilling in the inexpensive and easy to handle shredded pine bark, but especially as it breaks down it holds too much moisture and drains too slowly after heavy rain for either the macro or the gigantea. I guess people in Galveston or Florida will find it humorous that I actually buy coarse sand and till it in to make them more weather-proof. The Acanthus tends to just drop dead in my soil after a heavy rain in hot weather without tilling in enough sand to raise it above ground level and give it fast drainage.

    We seem to be settling into an El Niño type weather pattern with warm rain coming in from the SW every 4-5 days. I hope some of this is reaching parched OKC. I take it as a good sign that the range fires aren't dominating the evening news now.

    Keiko

  • susanlynne48
    Original Author
    18 years ago

    We had a nice bit of rain this weekend, thank goodness. The sand in my soil comes from a kid's sandbox that used to exist in my backyard. I tried to empty most of it and dispose of it, but much of it became part of the existing soil in an area of about 10' by 3', which is where the acanthus and colocasias are located, along with some epimediums, typhoniums, bleeding heart, hosta 'Sum & Substance' (I need to divide - it is about 6' across now), begonia grandis, my Japanese Maple, some columbine, astilbe, etc. They seem to like the fast draining soil. I did add some more organic materials to the area last year, and they seemed to benefit from that. Having to water that fast-draining soil, leaches any beneficials from it quickly.

    I use some gypsum to break up the clay, too. My biggest problem is tree root water steal. My hydrangeas suffer the most, as does my variegated petasites. Actually, the colocasias seem to manage better than some plants, like the acanthus, hydrangeas, and petasites. These would love to be in water most of the time. Most people here have trouble growing acanthus, but I have never had any problems with mine. Breeches envy. Hostas have proven to be more drought tolerant than I would ever have thought. The bright greens, like S&S take more sun than the blues (I have a Blue Angel about 6' across, too). The new Thalictrum 'Illuminator' I got last year, handles drought like a queen. A beautiful plant that I would recommend to anyone. The foliage is outstanding powder blue and keeps coming even in the heat of August, when most Thalictrums are dormant. My indigofera kiroliwii is another great new plant with wisteria-like blooms, that handles the drought well. I really want pendula, though. My pride and joy is contorted mulberry (morus bombycis unryu). A gorgeous tree providing lots of shade with its HUGE leaves - no fruit. I'm also a lily fanatic - orientals especially. Have a few clematis, am growing a couple of aristolocheas, too, and cardiocrinum.

    What else do you get into? It's tough growing some of the exotics I like in Oklahoma.

    Susan

  • keiko2
    18 years ago

    I really love my lacecap Hydrangeas, especially since they can be planted in native soil with no problems.

    For us, I think the golden variegated form of Petasites (not an aroid) is a much better choice than Colocasia "Yellow Splash" , but I think Dallas is probably the southernmost point they will do well. They should send up flower stalks before the foliage in February, but in this weird weather I will just have to wait and see what happpens!

    I also like the way the contorted Morus looks, especially during winter, but my attempt at growing it quite a few years ago was unsuccessful- probably another poor drainage problem.

    Keiko

  • susanlynne48
    Original Author
    18 years ago

    If you can tell me how to root one (hard wood cutting?), I can try to root one for you. I never had any problems with mine. And I probably don't have the best draining soil in my yard. It has grown to about 15-18' tall in 4 years.

    I have one lacecap - Frau Reiko - that is a real beauty. The outside flowers (non-sterile?) are pink/white picotee. It's very pretty. I got it at HD for $5. Who woulda thought.

    Do you think I could save some seeds of that variegated petasites? I don't know if they are sterile or not. Haven't researched it.

    Susan

  • keiko2
    18 years ago

    Susan,
    Thanks for the offer on the Morus, but at this point I have no idea where to put it.

    I have never noticed the Petasites setting seed before, but will watch this year and be happy to drop some in the mail if they do. They flower when it is still maybe too cold for any of our native insects to be out.

    In the meantime, consider where you would like them permanently. They form rhizomes like great slabs of underground tree trunks and you may need to hire a backhoe to dig them up and move them.

    You will probably just get the green form from seed. I don't know the species on mine, but they are different from the one often sold as "P. japonica".

    Keiko

  • susanlynne48
    Original Author
    18 years ago

    I have petasites japonica, variegated form. I will watch mine also because I just never noticed if they set seed. I would like to have the green variety, too. I need to fill up this seemingly black hole in my back yard.

    Right now, I'm trying to find a rhizome of hops. Need it for my butterflies.

    Susan

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