I have a few aroids but would like to acquire more. There’s a wealth of information out there but some I find confusing and some contradictory. My goal is to grow mostly hardy aroids with just a few requiring greater care beyond lifting for over-winter storage. No GH. What I do need to grow indoors for some or all of winter will be ground floor at a west facing window.

Below is a list of what I currently grow in USDA Hardiness Zone 5a (average lows from -10 to 15°F (-26°C). I’m borderline 6b but we’re often without snow cover (Western Massachusetts, USA). We have acid soil and humid summers. Temperatures in the 90’s and occasional 100’s F are not uncommon.

Zantedeschia albomaculata and others-lift corms and store to over-winter (for many years).

Z. aethiopica (green leaf)-lift rhizomes and store to over-winter.

Colocasia esculenta-lift tubers and store to over-winter.

C. esculenta NOID (stoloniferus)-small tubers(?) didn’t survive winter storage.

Arisaema triphyllum (from seed)-all survived.

A. speciosum ‘Magnificum’-in ground over-winter (2 of 3 survived 1st winter).

A. griffithii ‘Pradhani’-in ground over-winter (w/shredded leaf mulch, 2 of 3 survived 1st winter).

note: Arisaema in heavy shade to shade in mostly dry site.

I’d like to add some or all of the following this year:

Amorphophallus konjac

Dracunculus vulgaris

Typhonium venosum

Helicodiceros muscivorus

C. esculenta ‘Pink China’

*C. esculenta ‘Black Magic’

*C. gigantea 'Thai Giant'

*Alocasia Plumbea Nigra

*Z. aethiopica 'White Giant'

Misc. Arisaema, Arum, … (undecided at present)

* lift and store to over-winter.

I realize with some I’m pushing zones a bit, but I’ve over-wintered Musa Basjoo and Acanthus mollis with a heavy mulch cover so feel it’s worth a try.

I’ve read on GW that some who grow Dracunculus vulgaris in colder zones lift the dormant tubers then replant in the fall. Is this because they need to be kept dry when dormant? Is this true of any others on my wish-list? I haven’t been able to find out.

I’ve been told by the grower that the Z. aethiopica 'White Giant' I’ve ordered take several years to develop sizeable corms. I intend to dig in the fall, pot-up and store dry for the winter then bring out of dormancy 4 months latter (dig early November then bring upstairs in early March).

C. gigantea 'Thai Giant' (ordered) apparently also will take several years to develop sizeable tubers. I plan to treat this in the same manner as the 'White Giant'.

C. esculenta ‘Pink China’ I intend to over-winter in the ground, mulched.

C. esculenta ‘Black Magic’ I intend to lift as with the species.

Large Alocasia Plumbea Nigra tubers are available which I intend to lift in the fall and store. After 4 months I’ll pot up, as I’ve been told Alocasia in general don’t go into true dormancy. Is 4 months too long?

The hardy Asian Arisaema I’ve been looking at vary from forest floor to mountain slope habitats. Not knowing the exact environments, is it safest to assume keeping them dry during dormancy? The Mediterranean aroids, like D. vulgaris I assume require a dry dormant period. Those which are not hardy to at least zone 6, such as Arum creticum, discoridis, etc. I’m assuming are not possible for me to attempt without a greenhouse.

Any help, recommendations, etc. would be appreciated. I you think other aroids would better choices I’m open to al new information.

Evan