I treat my paeoniifolius and bulbifer the same. Late in the season I keep the petiole tied in the upright position allowing all the 'Juice' to desend to the tuber while I allow the potting mix to go dry. I maintain the temps cool. Once the petiole has dried up I carefully remove the tuber from the potting mix and rinse very well and air dry. I soak them in systemic fungicide for a few minutes then air dry again. I place them in individual paper bags in an airy storage area inside my home. In the spring I monitor activity around March. I pot them in ammended fresh potting mix, water them and place in a warm greenhouse until it warms up outside.

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Definitely leave your new titanums in soil with just the slightest bit of moisture in the soil during dormancy. I mean the slightest. All of the other your mention I keep dry over winter.

Yes sir radar. I lost my titanum likely due to moisture and temperature fluctuations during dormancy.

Konjacs = dry dormancy. When mine go limp in the fall from the cool temps and darker evenings I cut off the stalk, dig up the corm, dry it out and clean it off to store on a shelf for the winter. If I have babies they too are dried and stored for the winter. When they show signs of growth in late winter/early spring I pot them up and get them going again.

I grow konjac and paeoniifolius. I leave them potted up all winter but move the pots to my attached garage. I do not water at all and then move pots outside when threat of frost is past. All my potted Amorphophallus(6 pots, some with 3 large corms) come back better than the previous year grown this way.

-David

Thank you for the advice!

My A titanum are going dormant now that they're settling into Melbourne, and the others are dormant and dry (except for one strange A. paeoniifolius that shows no signs of going dormant despite the temperature averaging about 10C. Weird).