Welcome to the problem with Amorphs that many of us have faced over the years. They grow when they want, not when you want. I solved the problem by getting rid of all my large species and kept only the small ones so that if they emerge in July I can keep them under lights until December to make them happy and eventually flower them. The only ones that behave like clockwork for me are A. konjac and A. albus. All the rest you just never know when they will decide to grow. By the way, they are not self-fertile so you could not have pollinated anyway. 50s at night.....nice and toasty warm for that time of year....must be nice :o) Dan

I have one 8" Konjac corm just waking up. It is WAY LATE. My smaller Konjacs are doing great. So, in the fall I'll let nature deal with it and when the biggest one flops over it'll go in for the winter regardless of it's short grow time.

So I should not have put them into the ground until I could see leaf coming out of them? Since the bulbifer grew a flower it MUST be going to grow a leaf right? I am more worried about the paeoniifolius because its leaf nub was only about an inch tall. I just wanted to get them in the ground because they both had root stubs about half a cm long that weren't doing well in my very dry house air and I hoped even if the leaf doesn't grow yet they would have better roots. I will stop watering at all until leaves come up too.

Lots of times when mine flower they do not grow a leaf that season.....could just be my very short growing season here in western PA of course. My konjac all just go in the ground in late May and if they grow then great and if not who cares....they reproduce like rabbits anyway. I suppose I would leave them in the ground if it were me, but I never water mine that are in the ground anyway....nature takes care of what ever they need here :o) Dan

Mine are in pots. I actually went out this morning and gently dug up some soil next to the corms and found that both of them have long, white thick healthy looking roots. I am so happy about that. And it appears the paeoniifolius is almost out of the ground, however the bulbifer I didn't find the leaf nub I just kept away from the corm. Long white roots means they are both going to grow leaves right? It sounds weird to me for them to grow roots and not grow a leaf ??

I live in Melboune, Australia. My paeoniifolius decided it didn't like summer this year, so it has been growing all through winter without hassle. That is a Melbourne winter. I keep it in an unheated greenhouse, so it didn't get any frosts or cold rain, but it still survived the days that peaked at 3C and nights that dropped below freezing. paeoniifolius is a very variable species, so it may depend on where yours comes from, but mine at least didn't seem to care that it was growing cold, I just watered VERY sparingly, like once a fortnight, and only a splash.

If it's anything like mine, it'll grow through winter (slowly, mind) and be none the worse. It still baffles me why it didn't behave like the bulbifer and konjac that grew through summer and currently reside in a shoebox, but if it's happy to grow through winter, so am I I guess.

Nice to hear I'm not the only one with this problem. Well I don't have anywhere to protect it from rain fall except inside my house pretty much. I could put it under neath this evergreen magnolia for frost protection. I can't beleive yours survived through such cold, I think I will just leave mine outside after all. If it grows through the winter, then how does it decide when to go dormant? Can it go dormant in late winter and then emerge in spring or summer? BTW my bulbifer is also still dormant, although it bloomed in june. Thanks

You've got the same problem I have. I got a paeoniifolius offset last winter and planted it in early March. The leaf is only now starting to open up, and it's about three inches high. I hope it at least lasts a couple of months before it goes dormant...I once had an Amorphophallus that came up in late August and went back down in September.

keep the soil on the dry side, if you see healthy roots coming out then when you do water feed the plant. temperature of the soil will have a lot to do with if they will put forth a leaf or not. I have some that will sprout like clockwork and then those who need conditions to be perfect for them not us. Soil temperature being one of the first things they sense. light length and food availability for some and for the hardest thing is those who pop up according to the rain. A. titanum will have a leaf for 17 months and then not come up for over a year. I have A. konjac that just come up for 2 months of the year and then whithers away. I feed it like crazy as I do all of them when the roots begin emerging and temperatures are warm. Remember if they have no roots then they cannot absorb water or food so hold off both until you see them even if a leaf is emerging.

Wow. Great advice. The pot they are in is underneath a tree in just about full shade and its only been about 75 degrees out lately in the day, so I suspect their soil is like 60 degrees farenheight. Probably too cool :( Although I started digging them up and both of them have thick white roots, so maybe I should fertilize them anyways. Do titanum leafs really last for 17 months? That's incredible. I thought they only lasted a few months like the other amorphophallus. Should I put the pots out in the sun so the soil gets hot? If I leave them out with a leaf in the hot california sun they will surely burn quickly but I can just put them out there until leaves emerge. The paeoniifolius leaf is actually really close to getting out of the dirt. When I planted it the spike was about 2 inches and I put it about 4 inches into the soil and now it is about 1 inch from the top I suspect. The bulbifer I just dug down to the bulb the other day and found thick white roots but I although I didn't dig the whole bulb up, I couldn't find any spike at all.

Well my 8" Konjac is up and in full leaf now. It won't have long to grow this year but at least she's up and going!

So. Neither of my tubers ever produced a leaf and it is now october. When I planted both of them, they had pink colored pointy growths poking out of them growing quickly. Both of them grew roots, which are still there, but i just dug down to both of them in their pots and they have healthy roots and the tubers don't look rotten, but the growths that were there basicly disappeared and now they look just like when I bought them... with small 1/2 inch tall pink stubs on top of them. I guess the thing that grew out of them was not encasing anything and was just produced for some reason. For now, I moved them under the overhang of the house where they will not get any rain. I think I will just leave them in their pots and leave them kind of damp seeing as they have roots, and hope that eventually they will grow a real leaf.

Sounds like they took the year off. They should be alright. It's getting really cool here so mine, one by one, are starting to flop over. I've dug up and cleaned several so far with more to go yet. LOVE these plants!

Yea, Ive read about this happening and it seems ok. I'm a little bit disappointed though that both of them didn't grow leaves their first year here. Is it freezing yet in NY? It's still like in the 60s here. Sorry for delayed reply too.

We've had freezing here in N.Y. All my Konjac corms are dug up, cleaned and inside as of last week.

Hi. Today I just decided to dig up my amorph corms and was happy to see they had no fungus and just a tiny bit of rot on one of them. I have not watered them in like 3 months but was surprised the soil was still a little bit moist even being under neath the eves. What was weird though, was that they seemed even bigger than when I planted them. This is especially peculiar because even the one that grew a flower seemed bigger, but neither of them grew leaves, only roots. I wish I had weighed them so I could confirm this phenomenon, but can anybody tell me how that is possible?

Just a quick idea. Unpot those tubers and bring them inside. There is no point on keeping them in the pot and risking rot. Sometimes the roots will absorb moisture, sometimes even the tuber itself will plump.