Rick,

I have had mine for about three years and never had a problem during the wintee. although with other Amorph. i have. when it
starts to go dormant i dig the whole plant out of the ground and put it in my garage to let the rest of the plant die. then i will seperate the dirt from the bulb and put the bulb on a shelf that is warm and dry ( with little humudity) I found that the less humidity the better for bulbs.

truetropical is on target. Though I give mine a good soaking in systemic fungicide before winter storage. In the past I have had small sections of rot in about half my tubers over the winter. This winter I will store them inside my house were the environment is warmer and drier.

I have been growing Amorph's for only about year now. I am in the same situation you are rred. Last year I brought mine inside to allow them to slowly go dormant. and then either unpotted the ones that are to be stored dry or allowed the ones stored in soil to go very very dry.

I remember reading that you should think of the tubers the same way you think of storing Potato's. not too cool, keep in the dark and not too dry.

I read that when the tubers are in dormancy they need no light, a small amount of warmth and humidity.

In Aroideana, the yearly magazine from the International Aroid Society, Volume 25 there is a whole section devoted to A. paeoniifolius.

Specifically on how to grow it in the field for food production. They touch only briefly on dormant season storage. I believe it was stated that they experienced rot more when the tubers were touching each other during storage and there was not enough air flow in the storage area. They wrote about the use of sulfer powder to treat rot after the fact.

Thank you houstonpat for the fungicide suggestion. I guess in the case of Amorph.'s it is better to prevent a problem instead of trying to cure one.
What kind of fungicide do you use?

I would like to know the fungicide type too.

I store many of my tubers, especially dahlias, in milled peat moss, and the acidity seems to discourage fungus, etc. With the dahlias, I give them a small drink of water every 5 weeks or so, have never had one rot, and they come out of storage in the Spring as plump as when they went it.

I might try a similar process, w/o watering, on the fussier amorphs. I don't think anything except outright freezing would kill a typhonium though... The paeoniifolius will probably be kept @ 60*F minimum...

--Rick in CT

I have heard of people using plain ground cinnamon powder to dust tubers as it is a natural fungicide, but was hoping to learn of other methods.

I'm wrestling with the same question this year. Last year I stopped watering in late October and put the pots under the patio where they would not receive any rain. Minimum temps would have been in the high 30's at the worst. The stems died off naturally and the tubers sat in the pots all winter. When I started watering in the spring, up they came. It seemed awfully simple but it worked. Don't know whether to try something more sophisticated this winter or not. I also have pups this year so I will have to separate in the spring. I'm leaning toward just doing the same thing I did last year for winter though.

For your climate holly, that sounds like it may work again. It's hard to say, so much depends on the type of winter you get this year. If it is the same as last year OK if not it could be trouble.

I just got a A. Paeoniifolius. Looked great at garden shop but by time got home the soft trunks were bent and no way to stabilize. The cheap pots plants come in had already started to split so put in new pot just tad larger than root ball but in process the soft stems just got worse. Don't want to take back cause only one I've found locally. Should I go to dormant stage and should I cut back damaged parts or wait till dies off. Will it come back? I've had one before but it was long time ago and don't remember much. Thanks!!