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Camelias vs rhododendrons - which are lower maintenance?

foggysf
14 years ago

I have an area of part-shade in my back yard, with acidic soil from pine needs that fall regularly. I have two young kids and don't have a lot of time for gardening. I'm trying to decide between camellias vs. rhododendrons to put along my back fence. I had initially decided on camellias because that's what's available right now, but I read that I need to pick up fallen flowers weekly during bloom season. So then I thought about waiting to get rhodies instead, but then I read that rhodies need to be picked off after each bloom. They both sound like a lot of work. Which will be easier? I'm looking for the lowest maintenance option with color. Thank you!

Comments (15)

  • morz8 - Washington Coast
    14 years ago

    I can't think of any blooming shrub that would be totally mainteance free, and I'm not sure there would be a significant difference in time required between camellias and rhododendrons.

    A mulch will help to cool soil and keep them moist, but both will still need water in your dry months. They will need at least minimal grooming after blooming, but you're looking at minutes, not hours, per week for a few plants and they are only in bloom a few short weeks. Go with the choice that appeals to you - you may find a wider color range and later seasonal bloom time with rhododendrons.

  • rhodyman
    14 years ago

    Camellias tend to bloom so early that they get frozen back. We had camellias in Portland, Oregon, and they frequently bloomed early and got frost bit or bloomed and the rain turned the flowers brown. In general the rhododendrons performed much better. The cultural requirements are almost identical. We didn't do anything to either the camellias or rhododendrons and they loved it.

  • gardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
    14 years ago

    I agree with Mor - no living plant is maintenance free but either of these choices require minimal maintenance. And depending on how tidy and well-groomed you need your garden to be, both can be allowed to let spent flowers go - it doesn't help or hurt the plants to let the old flowers be. In zone 8, it's unlikely late freezes will bother camellias but various rhodies can be selected to provide a much longer bloom period.

    The presence of pine needles do not necessarily indicate an acid soil - many pines prefer more alkaline soils and the needles, contrary to common belief, do not make soil acidic. I'd test first to make sure of correct soil pH.

  • kristincarol
    14 years ago

    One really needs to pick diseased spent flowers and leaves from beneath camellias to keep the disease from progressing. There is nothing like this with rhodies, but having to deadhead them (when they are small enough to do so) is probably more time-consuming than picking up after the camellias.

    Yes, I'd say it is a toss up.

  • ozzysboy
    14 years ago

    amen to bboy, with one caveat: if you have a lot of deer in the area, they will selectively eat on your camellias. not unheard of to eat on the rhodies, but my camellias are a rolling banquet each winter for the d*&ned bambis. winter winds can also be a difficulty--moreso with camellias than rhodies--but horticultural oil sprays help.

    hope that helps.

  • sungarden
    14 years ago

    Of course, you don't really have to deadhead rhodies. The truss structure remaining after the blossoms fall has great architectural interest on its own (and can be hard to remove without destroying part of next year's growth). We just leave ours alone apart from the odd pruning (we moved into a place with around 30 rhodies all crowded into a space about 8x8', together with a pieris Japonica and a herringbone cotoneaster. So far we've moved out all the rhodies but four to other parts of the yard, where they're doing fine. Hard to kill. Leggy as heck, but we're hard pruning them a few at a time for that.

    On the other hand, we leave the camellia alone, too. It's against the north side of the house in a sort of east-west shaded alley, and right now it's covered with blossoms.

    I just hope that my wish-list tree peony does as well when I can afford it!

  • supaflyz
    14 years ago

    I think both of them are equal in low maintenance. My mom has both and we don't do anything to them and they flower every year. The camelia do have some bug issues.

  • Dave in NoVA • N. Virginia • zone 7A
    14 years ago

    I would grow both!! Honestly they are both so beautiful how can you choose between one or the other! Get some purple rhodies, as camellias don't come in that color, then get some variegated camellias -- like Tama Americana or similar! My Tama Americana:

    {{gwi:384263}}

  • ozzysboy
    13 years ago

    dave_in_nova: don't ever let me know where your garden is: I will dig up your Tama Americana. GREAT bloom/picture which has convinced me to see if Merrifield GC has it.

    FYI: the National Arboretum has its camellia walk/lecture this weekend.

  • Dave in NoVA • N. Virginia • zone 7A
    13 years ago

    Ozzy,

    I got ours at Behnke Nursery on River Rd. This is the time of year to find it!

  • subtropix
    13 years ago

    I do have both camellias and rhodies (AND THE DEER). I keep the camellias close to my drive way and a fence to protect from deer--seems to be working. There are all sorts of varieties so frost shouldn't be a factor where they are hardy and I've never had frost damage to them despite being in a colder zone (my 'kumasaka' are near peak now). I love rhodies but I have been having issues with them--some sort of leaf chewing bugs that have been reoccurring so I need to spray regularly--camellias are untouched by bugs so far. Rhodies also seem less tolerant of dry heat and seem to easily show wilt unless really shaded. Deer are less fond of rhodies, I would agree. Good luck!

  • rhodyman
    13 years ago

    Hi njoasis

    The notching on the edges of the rhododendon leaves is caused by strawberry and black vine weevils that live in the gound and come up at night to feed on the leaves. It is harmless, but does't look good. If you keep the leaves from touching the gound and put tanglefoot (http://www.tanglefoot.com/products/index.htm) on the main "trunks" of each rhododendron and other plants that touch the rhododendrons, you can easily prevent weevil damage without any sprays.

    Rhodies whose new growth wilts in the heat of the day is perfectly healthy and doesn't need watering unless the wilting doesn't go away at night. If the wilting doesn't go away at night, then it needs watering. Usually a good mulch layer and a little shade goes a long way in preventing this.

    Too much water in hot weather is a sure way to insure a rhody has a short life. Most rhododendrons are susceptible to root rot under such conditions.

    Here is a link that might be useful: How to care for rhododendrons

  • ozzysboy
    13 years ago

    Thanks for the tip dave_in_nova--only had enough time to visit Betty's Azalea Ranch this weekend--they're pushing Winter's Star this year it seems. I'll schedule a trip to Behnke's this upcoming weekend.

  • subtropix
    13 years ago

    Rhodyman, thank you so much for your non-chemical, non-spray alternative for weevil problems. My local nursery properly identified the problem but suggested a spray and I really do not like using pesticides!I am purchasing the suggested product today.

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