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pleasegrow23

My Az is in trouble! (photo link)

pleasegrow23
15 years ago

Howdy,

I've included a photo link to what I believe is an Azalea. Three years ago, the plant was pruned. Last year I gave it Holly Tone. It just is not doing well. Any advice?

Thank you

Here is a link that might be useful: photo link

Comments (5)

  • luis_pr
    15 years ago

    I could not tell what this plant is (for sure), pleasegrow23; maybe others will have better contact lenses.

    Is this a recent photo? Where are you located? Do you have any other photos that show the blooms? or a photo close-up of the leaves?

  • rhodyman
    15 years ago

    It is hard to tell what it is, it could even be witch hazel.

  • pleasegrow23
    Original Author
    15 years ago

    I've added a few more photos (a couple close ups). I cannot find any photos of the blooms (they are white). These photos are taken today. I am in central Virginia.

    Thanks!

    Here is a link that might be useful: more photos

  • luis_pr
    15 years ago

    The close-ups of the leaves appear to be azalea leaves but they also suggest that the plant has an iron chlorosis problem. This is caused by soil that is very alkaline and you can notice it when you see light green or yellow/green leaves where the leaf veins remain dark green.

    Nurseries sell a lot of soil acidifier products in liquid form that you can use to treat this. I apply some garden sulphur this time of the year to keep the soil pH acidic. Either is fine. Other people add other amendments. It may take several weeks for the color of the leaves to return to normal.

    Many nurseries will be selling soil pH measuring kits this time of the year. The cheap ones are not exact but close enough. A "real" soil test will include a more exact measurement of your soil pH.

  • rhodyman
    15 years ago

    I was mistaking the yellow leaves for flowers. Regarding chlorosis, there are many causes.

    Yellowing of a leaf between dark green veins is called chlorosis and is usually caused by an iron deficiency. Many conditions can be responsible for an iron deficiency. Poor drainage, planting too deeply, heavy soil with poor aeration, insect or fungus damage in the root zone and lack of moisture all induce chlorosis. After these conditions are eliminated as possible causes, soil testing is in order. Chlorosis can be caused by malnutrition caused by alkalinity of the soil, potassium deficiency, calcium deficiency, iron deficiency, magnesium deficiency or too much phosphorus in the soil. Iron is most readily available in acidic soils between pH 4.5-6.0. When the soil pH is above 6.5, iron may be present in adequate amounts, but is in an unusable form, due to an excessive amount of calcium carbonate. This can occur when plants are placed too close to cement foundations or walkways. Soil amendments that acidify the soil, such as iron sulfate or sulfur, are the best long term solution. For a quick but only temporary improvement in the appearance of the foliage, ferrous sulfate can be dissolved in water (1 ounce in 2 gallons of water) and sprinkled on the foliage. Some garden centers sell chelated iron, which provides the same results. Follow the label recommendations for mixing and applying chelated iron. A combination of acidification with sulfur and iron supplements such as chelated iron or iron sulfate will usually treat this problem. Chlorosis caused by magnesium deficiency is initially the same as iron, but progresses to form reddish purple blotches and marginal leaf necrosis (browning of leaf edges). Epsom salts are a good source of supplemental magnesium. Chlorosis can also be caused by nitrogen toxicity (usually caused by nitrate fertilizers) or other conditions that damage the roots such as root rot, severe cutting of the roots, root weevils or root death caused by extreme amounts of fertilizer.

    Here is a link that might be useful: Problems and fixes for rhododendrons and azaleas.

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