"Dormant oil spray can be applied to kill overwintering nymphs prior to new plant growth." You should be several weeks away from growth in a Z6.....

"Summer oil, or acephate (orthene) can be used in mid-June or early July for the crawlers. Check inner branch forks in May and June for the white egg sacs and for reddish crawlers in late June into July to help with the timing of your oil spray."

Sharon, Orthene isn't something to be used casually or by a gardener not savvy in chemical safety. Small, scraggly azaleas to which you have no emotional attachment should be relatively inexpensive to replace with new, fresh and healthy. If scale is common in your area, you could then watch for an early infestation and treat more easily.

It really is OK to occasionally discard a plant :)

Sooty mold growth on stems and petioles is a symptom of Azalea Bark Scale, Eriococcus azalea, and Cottony Azalea Scale, Pulvinaria floccifera. These small sucking insects feed on the bark and exude a sticky substance that turns the stems black. A scale infestation is indicated by sooty mold on leaves, yellowing of leaves, and twig dieback. This scale is most obvious from May through June when white egg sacs may be found in twig forks. Heavy infestations over several seasons may kill plants. Overwintering immature scales (nymphs) are about 2 mm long, gray, and are usually found in twig forks. This scale primarily attacks azalea and rhododendron, but has also been found on andromeda, maple, arborvitae, willow, poplar, and hackberry. Azaleas can tolerate low populations of this scale without injury, and if there are no yellowing leaves, no treatment is necessary. Beneficial predators and parasites will usually provide adequate control of light scale infestations. Examine egg sacs for holes which indicates control by parasites, and look for predators such as ladybird beetles. To control heavy infestations, spray dormant plants with a late oil spray to kill developing nymphs on twigs. If necessary a 2% summer rate of horticultural oil may be applied in July after all of the eggs have hatched.

Rhodyman, thank you, I did see this blurb when I searched. I just wasn't sure if it was too late for me to spray with "late oil spray" or or not.

Morz8, Thank you for the permission to toss them out. ;-) They really are not much to look at, the poor things, but I do feel guilty throwing out plants.

Thanks again,

Sharon

Late Oil Spray is OK up until the buds start opening, either the flower buds or the foliage buds.

Azaleas are in full bloom with more opening every day. Have discovered scale and mealy bugs in some. A few plants in the "back 40" have died. Don't want to lose any more. 4-5 days of freeze coming today [4/5]. What can I treat them with NOW?

For scale: if the new leaves are opening, then wait and use the 2% summer rate of horticultural oil may be applied in July after all of the eggs have hatched. If the foliage buds are still closed, then use oil spray to kill developing nymphs on twigs now. I am assuming the flowers are toast if you are getting a heavy freezes. For scale, letting predators do the job is the best option is the scale is not too bad.

For mealybugs: the 2% summer rate of horticultural oil will work on mealybugs also. If they are really bad, systemic insecticides are preferred, but thorough treatment with a contact insecticide may provide control. Again, the best control is natural predators. However, ants tend to protect mealybugs from the predators.