Shop Products
Houzz Logo Print
tom_nwnj

Transplanted Rhotos

tom_nwnj
16 years ago

Hi,

Eighteen months ago we had the foundation plants in front of the house replaced. The mix that was taken out included 6 rhotos. They are probably about 30 years old. They were just too big for our small ranch house. They were turning into small trees.

The landscaping crew that did the new installations (smaller boxwoods, etc.) suggested that they could transplant the 6 rhotos.

We have other slightly wooded areas, so I selected a new location for the rhotos. The installers planted them there, using a small excavator.

I watered the rhotos quite frequently for the first year. Last spring they looked great. Huge flower blooms and new foliage growth. Last July some had some dead foliage appear. The landscape company said to spray the leaves with Miracle Grow (for rhotos/azaleas). I did that.

This spring I have 2 rhotos with 50 percent dead foliage. Remaining foliage has some brown spots, and the flower buds have brown spots.

The rhotos get morning sun, afternoon shade. The soil is somewhat rocky, hedgerow type stuff, but I was careful to completely bury all roots. The shrubs are not mulched.

I was under the impression that if they made it through the first year, they would be OK.

What is my "big hammer" solution?

(If necessary, I can get some pics in a day or two)

Thanks!

Comments (4)

  • Embothrium
    16 years ago

    Half dead vertically, as in swaths of entirely dead branches or a bunch of dead leaves on the inside of an otherwise green canopy? Dead leaves will appear and fall every year. If this year's new shoot growth is less green, abundant and vigorous than last that would suggest that is some sort of deterioration in condition of the plants, perhaps due to a change in site conditions. Even something like mulch decomposing and growing thin, without being topped off can produce such a problem.

    Heavy flowering often results in less bloom and less total number of new shoots the following year, but leaves should still have good color and there should be normally vigorous shoots at least scattered among those that are made.

  • tom_nwnj
    Original Author
    16 years ago

    Yes, swaths of entirely dead branches

  • Embothrium
    16 years ago

    Often with rhododendrons that is root or stem rot caused by water molds such as Phythophthora. May have to get help from a consultant who can view the site and/or Cooperative Extension (who may be able to test tissue samples for infestation) to find out what is happening.

  • rhodyman
    16 years ago

    Hi Tom.

    For many of us, this past winter in the PA/NJ area our plants took a beating with the very unusual winters some of us had with warm weather followed by late freezes. They have what is more typical of drought damage but in this case was caused by the warm weather followed by late freezes. It causes Botryosphaeria dothidea which causes leaves to turn dull green and then brown and roll and droop. Cankers form on branches which may girdle the branch.

    This is the most common disease of rhododendrons in the landscape. A typical symptom of this fungal disease is scattered dying branches on an otherwise healthy plant. Leaves on infected stems turn brown, then droop and roll inward. These leaves often lay flat against the stem and will remain attached. The pathogen can infect all ages of stem tissue through wounds, pruning cuts, and leaf scars. Heat, drought stress, and winter injury can increase disease incidence. Cankers on branches can gradually grow through the wood until the stem becomes girdled. Diseased wood is reddish brown in appearance. Discolored wood viewed in longitudinal cross section often forms a wedge that points toward the center of the stem, and the pith may be darker brown than the surrounding wood.

    Sanitation and applying a fungicide such as metalaxyl (Subdue) after pruning my provide some control. Plants should be grown in partial shade, with mulch and kept well watered during dry periods. All dying branches should be promptly pruned out in dry weather and all discolored wood should be removed. Plants should also be protected from rough treatment during maintenance activities to prevent unnecessary wounds.

    I would highly recommend mulching with 1 to 2 inches of good mulch to help prevent future problems from summer heat, drought, winter freeze/thaw cycles, etc.

    Here is a link that might be useful: How to grow rhododendrons and azaleas.

0
Sponsored
Ed Ball Landscape Architecture
Average rating: 4.8 out of 5 stars30 Reviews
Exquisite Landscape Architecture & Design - “Best of Houzz" Winner