The leaves were not close enough or clear enough for me in the pictures so I was wondering if that is lace bugs' damage on the leaves?

Here is a link that might be useful: Example of Lace Bug Damage Courtesy of UFL-IFAS

is this better?? Thanks for the reply luis_pr!!

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Are there tiny varnish-like dots on leaf undersides? The dots are another visible symptom of lace bug...

there is a bunch of black dots underneath the leafs... is that lace bug and if so what can I do to fix it or is it to late??

Yes, the color of your leaves and the dots on undersides would indicate lace bug.

They are more of a problem for those plants sited in more sun than shade normally, and - any information I'm passing along is what I've read on the forum, lace bug is not an issue in my climate.

Moving the plants to more shade is an option for some. Lighter infestations can be controlled with neem or horticultural oil sprays or insecticidal soaps, but from your photos I wouldn't call your infestation light and getting good coverage of leaf undersides with such dense plants might not be easy.

I don't know how you feel about using chemicals in your garden, but a systemic insecticide is a third choice - it is only necessary to spray the upper leaf surfaces with a systemic since the chemical is taken into the plant unlike the contact sprays mentioned above. Orthene and Isotox (both Acephate) would work - if you are the type of gardener who carefully reads labels and follows instructions. Both would also target any beneficial insects including bees but the bees not a real concern now since your plants are no longer in bloom.

I don't know what state you are in, different state extensions may have different suggestions for timing of lace bug control - it might be worth asking at a local county extension office, or even a full service area nursery (not a box store) for their local recommendation - or post back with your state and someone closer than myself may have best advice for you.

Thank you so MUCH for the info!!!

my azaleas are actually in mostly shade... they only get about 4-5 hours of morning sun which I was told was not good esp for mine cause they are encore azaleas and that they will only bloom in spring and not again in late summer because they dont get enough sun to rebloom and they dont:( but thanks again for all the info and I will try out some of the chemical ones to try.. I've already tried the soap and water method but I wanna make sure I can get control of this fast cause those azaleas are not cheap!

Lace bug is seldom a problem in shade unless you are using chemicals. Chemicals destroy the little spiders that control lace bug.

There are some other possibilities:

1) Whitefly. Yellow mottling on the upper surface of leaves and black sooty mold and transparent insects on the bottom are symptoms of Azalea Whitefly (Pealius azaleae.) and Rhododendron Whitefly (Dialeurodes chittendeni.). These may also cause the following symptoms:

Small white spots on the underside of leaves and small white flies on under-surface of leaves is also an indication in infestation of Azalea Whitefly (Pealius azaleae.) and Rhododendron Whitefly (Dialeurodes chittendeni.). They are more prevalent on certain varieties and on plants grown in protected areas. These small white flying insects look like an aphid with wings and suck on the underside of foliage, leaving white spots where it has been. Heavy infestations cause the margins of terminal leaves to cup. These infested leaves will eventually turn yellowish and appear wilted. The lower leaves become covered with honeydew, followed by sooty mold (a black coating). To check for the presence of whiteflies, shake the terminals of white azaleas to flush out adult whiteflies which look like tiny white moths. Examine the lower surfaces of leaves for the presence of nymphs, which are flat, yellowish green, and resemble scale insects. All stages occur on the under sides of leaves. This whitefly is usually limited to varieties of the snow azalea, Rhododendron mucronatum. If the infestation is light, little or no plant symptoms are evident, and if beneficial insects are present, spray the undersides of leaves with insecticidal soap or a horticultural oil at the 2%summer rate. If the infestation is heavy use a registered residual insecticide such as Malathion, Diazinon or Orthene. Dick Murcott had a simple remedy to control the numbers of white flies. He would hang pieces of stiff plastic or 12" square metal sheets painted with a bright yellow/orange paint and then covered with petroleum jelly or any clear, sticky material. The white flies will fly to the colored material and get stuck in the sticky stuff!

2) Thrips. Thrips are characterized by a silvery white discoloration on the leaf's upper surface and silvery on the bottom with small black frass specks. The damage is similar to that from lace bugs. Thrips are a problem in warm and dry climates like California and New Zealand. Most of the standard insecticides and insecticidal soaps can be used. Control for thrips whether an insecticide or insecticidal soap is a contact control and must be applied on the adults. This is most likely done in May in California when they are visible. Locally, biological controls may also be available. It is best to remove infected flowers.

In any case, if you use chemical controls, make sure you spray the bottom of the leaf. Also, don't expect to see nice green leaves until you get new growth. The old leaves will not recover their color.