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David

Drought stress, as in not enough water.

Underlying reason could be one of many, among them a heat wave; it was planted recently and hasn't yet developed a good root system; and/or was recently transplanted or other reason for root damage.

Ditto:

Browned foliage (scorch and burning). Because broadleaf evergreens carry their leaves all winter, they are constantly losing water to the air. If these plants are exposed to strong winds in winter when the soil is cold and the roots are inactive, water is lost faster than the roots can replace it. A similar situation is likely to occur again in the first few hot days of spring (65-70 degrees F.) when soil is still frozen. The symptoms are a browning or scorching of the leaves at the tip of the leaf blade. The affected parts tend to be reddish brown and the wood may be shriveled. Excessive drying beyond normal wilting (drooping and slight curling of the foliage) may be followed by the same browning or scorching of the leaves in summer. To prevent such difficulties, do the following:

 Plant broadleaf evergreens in spots protected from wind and sun. Avoid southern exposures.

 Provide evergreen plants with ample moisture, both before the ground freezes in fall, and during the growing season. In late fall (November), water the ground heavily to prevent its drying out during winter.

 Mulch evergreens when growth has hardened in the fall (after non-evergreen plants have dropped their leaves). Mulching will insulate the soil from sudden temperature changes, reduce the depth to which freezing takes place, and reduce the time that the ground is frozen. Root growth continues at 45 degrees or more. Leave mulches in place in summer for their insulation and moisture retention value.

Azaleas and similar plants that have been mulched with sawdust or peat moss, sometimes fail to develop mature stem tissue where they are touched by the mulch. Serious injury may follow in early frost. This is especially true if gardens are in low areas or frost pockets. In these problem areas, in order for these plants to become sufficiently hardened to withstand early frost damage, move mulch materials two to three inches away from the base of the stem in mid-August. This will allow time for the bark and wood of the plant to dry and mature before early fall frosts can cause injury. Replace mulch after leaf fall from trees and add new mulch at that time.

 Protect sensitive evergreen plants with a windbreak or sunshade. Place the plants on the leaf side of least sensitive evergreen trees, or put up a shield of lath or other materials to moderate the wind and the sun's rays.

 Where needed, during the middle of hot, early spring days, turn a sprinkler on the plant or otherwise provide windbreak or sunshade.

Here is a link that might be useful: ... from page 2 of Cornell Cooperative Extension's