Chinese Pistache are usually single trunk and frankly, I can't remember ever seeing a multi-trunk tree. Sometimes the Pistache will sprout shoots along the trunk, but these are much smaller and are not considered multi-trunk. I'm wondering if a look-alike tree was used in your landscape instead like Brazilian Pepper.

It's really easy to tell the difference. Just crush a few leaves of your tree in your hand. When crushed, the leaves of Chinese Pistache have a distinctive smell. Compare this to leaves of a tree that you are sure is a Pistache - like at a reputable nursery. Brazilian Pepper leaves smell.....well, "peppery".

I hope this helps.

Here is a link that might be useful: Chinese Pistache

Thank you for the tip. The guy assured them the specimens were Chinese Pistache. But, I was concerned that he is trying to pass off something else on them. The leaf structure looks like Chinese Pistache, but the form doesn't fit. We will try the test you mentioned, comparing it to both a Brazilian Pepper and a bona fide Pistache.

One would hope to get what was ordered when paying for mature, installed trees. Unfortunately, this landscaping project has been a real headache that won't seem to reach an end!

I'm glad you brought this up, as I too am in the market for a Chinese Pistache tree to replace the mulberry tree that I'm taking out. So, while browsing links for info on Chinese Pistache, I was browsing at the link below, and it is showing both single and multi-trunk Chinese Pistache.

Easy

Here is a link that might be useful: Greenwood Nursery

Hmmmm... a multi-trunked specimen would be *nice* - but I've never seen one either.

I'd definitely have your folks check it out; there's some big differences in how some trees are cared for and quirks to be known. I wonder what it is... I'd take some leaves in and ask a nursery person to ID it without telling them what it's *supposed* to be, too.

I hope that it is just a really cool different form of Chinese Pistache - I hate to hear of folks having bad experinces.

Thank you for the link to the pictures. The multi-trunk trees in the photo are quite nice. I will post back here after I have the leaves checked -- also a great idea to take the leaves into a nursery. (I will also try to find out the source of the trees.) My parents really chose the Chinese Pistache because of their fall color -- I guess that will provide somewhat of a test, too.

I have checked with Baker's Nursery and White Tank Nursery regarding my Chinese Pistache question. While they had not seen multi-trunk, they verified that the leaves are Chinese Pistache. I also brought home a branch to compare. In contrasting it with a Brazilian Pepper and also crunching the leaves in my hand to perform the 'smell test' I think they are indeed Chinese Pistache.

Now, we have a bigger problem, however. We had about 16 trees planted in my parents' lot -- many of them were large sized. Several looked unhealthy to me, so I checked the soil, which was quite moist. However, as I tried to find the root balls of the trees at the surface, I noticed they were buried. I have dug down at least 6 inches on a few of the trees, and I am still at the trunks. The have already lost a Pomegranate and an Orchid. I am afraid any trees planted this way will eventually have rot or disease or suffer from oxygen deprivation and not thrive. Does anyone have advice. The guy who planted these (or at least who manages the workers) is a certified arborist, so I am thoroughly shocked that he got this so wrong. Am I out of bounds to refuse to pay him until he corrects this AND can it be corrected? (As I understand, deeply planted trees can have problems for years to come.) It is so unfortunate because these tress (and the shrubs which are similarly planted) represent a very large investment.

Greenwich,

You are correct in your prognosis for trees (and nearly all plants) that are planted too deeply. The tissue in the zone where the trunk turns into root tissue must remain exposed to air or they will suffocate which leads to secondary bacterial and fungal problems.

Here is a link to the planting and staking standards for trees and shrubs which have been adopted by most (but obviously not all) landscape contractors across the southwest. Research from the U of A shows that this method is the most successful for perennials in our region. A summary is also listed in our FAQ section.

You can check to see if the arborist on staff is certified by using the International Society of Arboriculture's search feature at http://www.isa-arbor.com/findArborist/findarborist.aspx

I hope this helps.

Here is a link that might be useful: Planting Trees and Shrubs

Planted a 25 gal chinese pistache end of May and less than 30 days later it is dead. We followed directions for watering. Is there anything we may have missed?