I would agree... plant before last likely frost date. Next winter protect at least the trunk and roots. Plant in close to house on south side (protected) would be my advice. My Moringa notes which are cut and paste and not my writing (work in process):

Moringa (Horseradish-tree, Ben-oil tree, Drumstick-tree). A family of African and Asian tropical to sub-tropical evergreen trees containing 13 species, ranging in size form a tiny herb to large trees, though when Moringa is mentioned it is usually referring to one species, "Moringa oleifera" (a slender tree form). A second species with larger leave, "Moriga stenopetala," a bottle tree with large water storing trunk, is also cultivated but not as widely [slower grower, bigger leaves, preferred taste, more drought tolerant, harder to germinate, may prefer more course sandy soil, more sensitive to frost]. Grown at 6,500 ft elevation in Zimbabwe.
http://www.moringaceae.org/

Why care? Moringa is edible by people and livestock. Much of the plant is highly nutritionally dense in protein, vitamins A, B, C and K and some minerals. It's leaves pungent taste with a pungent odor of horseradish so good for bulk when cooked in manner that loses some pungency. It's root can be harvested young and tastes like horseradish. It's slender triangular seed pods are numerous and long and can be harvested young and prepared like string beans. Flowering and seed pods are produced once a year (spring) in cooler regions and twice a year or year round in warmer areas with constant rainfall. It's seed pods are ready harvested mature, once dried and with a simple twist easily released its tri-lobed dark brown 1 cm. seeds (around 20 per pod) which have good storage properties and very high germination rates within 2 weeks when planted 1" below soil. 50:50 after 12 month storage, 0% germination after 24 months. Seeds can be pressed for oil (30-40%), is clear (lubricant), sweet and odorless (lamp, biodiesel), never becoming rancid (soap); consequently it is edible (salad oil). The remaining mash is 61% protein and can be used for livestock food or to purify water via flocculation. Bark can serve for tanning; it also yields a coarse fiber. Wood has been used for paper pulp. Living fence (windbreaks).
http://nutritiondata.self.com/facts/vegetables-and-vegetable-products/2738/2

Because this tree has been cultivated for thousands of years there are some cultivars developed for enhanced purposes. [taste, seed pod, oil, dwarfing]

In cultivation, it is often cut back annually to 1 to 2 meters and allowed to regrow so the pods and leaves remain within arm's reach. Seed pods are sweet the first year but can become bitter on older trees so annual cultivation is applied in some practice. Planting depth hole: 8-15" wide x 12-20" deep. For intense leaf production they can be planted in rows spaced just 6-8" apart. More commonly 2-3 feet apart. Flowers are said to taste like mushrooms when cooked. Sap makes a blue dye.

Pests and pathogens are really not a problem anywhere. Some fungi attack this tree, and the only pests of note are aphids and spider mites who love the leaves, weevils (young trees), stem borers, caterpillars and fruit flies (young fruits (forming pods)). Wide climates. Dry to wet tolerance. Wide pH tolerant. Probably grows best in loose soils due to taproot. But if the taproot is blocked it forms a thick, bulbous woody tuber root that may protrude from the surface and the tree still seems to do well.

It grows very quickly in many environments (USDA 9 and 10). Doesn't tolerate freezing. Can put on 15 feet of growth from seed in its first year reaching a slender height of over 30 feet; the trunk can eventually reach 17" dia. Beautiful abundant white sweet scented edible flowers used in perfumes. Puts down a long taproot and no structural roots, so can be planted safely next to structures.

Do not overwater or they grow too fast. They can take serious underwatering and will dwarf (slow grow) as a result.

http://www.hort.purdue.edu/newcrop/duke_energy/Moringa_oleifera.html

http://www.prota4u.info/protav8.asp?h=M26&t=Moringa_oleifera&p=Moringa+oleifera#MajorReferences

http://miracletrees.org/

http://www.explorelifeonearth.org/moringahome.html

https://www.treesforlife.org/our-work/our-initiatives/moringa/how-to-grow#plastic

http://www.wikihow.com/Grow-a-Moringa-Tree

http://www.ilovemoringa.com/MoringaStenopetala.html

http://www.moringamatters.com/Planting-Instructions-for-Moringa-seeds.html

Like a lot of other leafy vegetables, Moringa leaves reduce quite a bit in volume when you cook them. So cook up a lot---at least 4 liters of fresh leaflets. Get some water boiling vigorously and throw the leaflets in. Return to the boil and throughout the whole process stir the leaves often. Stirring avoids the leaflets clumping together, which makes them cook up with an especially pungent taste. As with all vegetables, DO NOT OVERCOOK. 3 minutes boiling is about right, maybe a little more if it is a big batch. Taste the leaves as you cook them to see how they are doing. A quick boil removes the pungent spicy taste and leaves the delicious meaty vegetable taste. .... Then, drain the leaves and spread them out so the cool quickly. With clean hands, squeeze the water out of the leaves. You can add a little oil to the leaves and store them for use in any dish....[source: http://www.moringaceae.org/1/post/2014/07/-eat-moringa-as-a-vegetable.html]

buy:
http://moringaoleiferanursery.weebly.com/moringa-oleifera-vs-moringa-stenopetala.html - large number of species

http://www.bestmoringatrees.com/order-moringa-seed.html - PKM-1 available

http://www.seedvendor.com/nsearch.html?section=&query=maringa&searchsubmit=Search&vwcatalog=yhst-13621674513170

This post was edited by Fascist_Nation on Wed, Oct 8, 14 at 8:51

Thank you Fascist Nation! Exactly what I was looking for.

smcaz

smcaz, how did you make out with your Moringa Trees?