I would recommend Phyllostachys Atrovaginata because it is a fast runner and will survive in your zone. I planted a 1 gallon plant in the spring of 2004, then transplanted it in the spring of 2005. It had sent a runner out at least 8 feet! It should also get to the height that you want. There are probably others that are good too, this is just one of the few I have some experience with.

judyny6,
Was this the first winter for the nigra? If so it may have only been topkilled and you may get new growth in the spring. ...just a thought

You should be able to get Fargesia robusta to 10'+ in a few years. Although, check with who you're purchasing it from. The 'Green Screen' variety is a tissue culture plant and some of these have growers that won't allow it to be divided and given away.

If you go with one of the more cold hardy Phyllostachys, you could always top the culms to the desired height.
Also, do some research on flowering so you know what to expect if this would happen with what you plant.

Rick

Hi Judy. You can use a runner if you contain it with a barrier or Kudzu likes to use the old rhizome pruning method annually. there are more hardy sp. than nigra which is a z7 minimum plant. I have nigra and suffered topkill last year. I got a few small culms to come back but nothing you would see in the PNW...sizewise. I'm still waiting to see what happens this spring to them. HTH
Kurt

Phyllostachys bissetii has a dwarf form that makes a good hedge. I have a stand of it in my garden and after 7 years it has remained easy to control and keep in bounds - I just shovel-prune unwanted shoots.

P. decora (syn. mannii)was recommended. It is hardy and is a nice looking species, but gets taller than the height you desire.

Fargesias don't tolerate hot afternoon sun, so those clumpers are out.

You could try the native Arundinaria gigantia. It is hardy in zone 6, forms a dense stand, and is controlable by shovel pruning shoots.

We have a long hedge and both we and the neighbor mowe over the runners on each side of the hedge. So it continues its growth as a hedge, but doesn't invade. This year I am going to harvest the shoots first before I mowe. To find varieties you can go to any of the nurseries' web pages. They show the lowest temperatures where they can grow, likw 0 degrees etc., and I think they also list the burn problems that they had in zone 7 in the first couple of years with each grove. They are called Midatlantic bamboo. Have fun.

I have 20 varieties of bamboo growing in south jersey that can deal with 10 degrees or more below 0. I too lost p. Nigra.also the first year. It was a badly rooted plant to begin with. a good p nigra variety is the snakeskin bamboo.It is a slow grower to for 5 or 6 years. They are all too slow growing for what you want to do..If you have to have color. yellow groove bamboo grows fast and is yellow and gets to about 20 ft.100.00? find someone like me and buy a well rooted ball.

I second Cady's suggestion of bissetti. Forget surviving. Once established, Bissetti will actually look good all year round. The most proven bamboo in your zone is phllostachys aureosulcata (yellow groove). There are 70 year old groves of yellow groove in the Northeast. It gets too tall for you, though.

A lot of people thought nigra would do well in zone 6 until we had the really cold winters one and two years ago.

Thank you everyone! You have all given me alot to think about, and a great way to keep myself busy by researching all of your great suggestions. Hope this will make the rest of winter fly by!
Judy