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winsorw

Phylostachys bambusoides OR P. vivax?

winsorw
13 years ago

Hi,

I would like to get some suggestions on which to plant between P. bambusoides and P. vivax. I live in zone 8a. The spot is on a hill with very tall trees surrounding it so it's not going to get a full sun most of the time.

It seems like P. bambusoides is slower but how slow?

Thanks.

Comments (14)

  • Embothrium
    13 years ago

    Phyllostachys vivax is hardier and more vigorous, with lusher, more spectacular foliage. When it gets below ~10F there you may see some damage to P. bambusoides. It also seems to be an aphid magnet. But if culm quality is your top priority, then P. bambusoides is what you want: P. vivax produces unevenly spaced, thin-walled culms which may break under the weight of snow.

  • winsorw
    Original Author
    13 years ago

    Thanks bboy for the tips. I think I'll go with vivax just to avoid the aphid problem.

  • Embothrium
    13 years ago

    The main headache with bamboos of most kinds in this region is mites. Non infested older plantings have become a bit of a rarity here. Affected specimens display yellowish blotches and bands on the leaves, as though variegated.

    Another thing I see often is poor basic foliage color, due no doubt to inadequate fertilization, and aborting of culms attempting to grow during dry periods. Think of the amount of fertility and moisture required to keep a lawn deep green all summer in this area and you have an idea of what bamboos needs to look their best here. Planting sites near bodies of water and seepage are liable to be the most favorable, as long as plants are never flooded or undermined.

  • mackel_in_dfw
    13 years ago

    I have a diffderent take on parasites. Parasites attack vulnerable or unhealthy organisms in nature as a rule, so parasitical attack of bamboo is a result of a soil problem, since this is the biggest factor in a plant's health other than water. High nitrogen, synthetic fertilizers are degratory to soil health, it's been shown over and over to destroy tilth, drainage, and nutrietn retention in agricultural studies. So thinking one can boost the health of a plant by improper fertilization can have the opposite effect. I have bambusoides and vivax as well, and use organic fertiizers. The only time I have seen parasites on bamboo was when I first received them and the grower had fertized the crap out of them with synthetics. I understand that this is anecdotal data.

  • alan_l
    13 years ago

    Do healthy plants have a way of fighting off parasite attacks? If not, how do the parasites know which plants are healthy?

    I think your climate may have more to do with the lack/presence of bamboo mites than any other factor.

    (I agree with your organic approach though!)

  • kudzu9
    13 years ago

    mackel-
    I'm not rejecting your viewpoint about healthy plants, but I don't think using commercial fertilizer necessarily creates unhealthy bamboo, especially since these fertilizers typically consist simply of elemental, inorganic compounds. It's whether one uses common sense in their application. I don't take mega-doses of vitamins and I don't over-fertilize my very healthy bamboo. In fact, I don't use fertilizer at all on my bigger, more established clumps of bamboo, and only slow-release fertilizer once a year on younger ones. However, I still have to regularly fight off bamboo mites infestations. That's because my anecdotal experience is from growing bamboo in the wet, overcast, temperate environment of the Pacific NW...which is a haven for these buggers. I'm guessing from your screen name that you are in Texas, and that means that your environment produces different challenges from ours. I think your approach is fine for you -- and, in fact, commendable -- but it won't necessarily ward off parasites everywhere. I know you recognize that. I'm just adding in my own experience, nothing else.

  • mackel_in_dfw
    13 years ago

    The difference between organic nitrogen and inorhanic nitrogen is that organic is connected to a huge carbon chain, and dissociates and reassociates slowly, while inorganic is a simple salt that dissociates easily and rapidly whenever water is present.
    The microorganisms do not have a constant massive die off and then rapid regrowth and subsequent alteration in makeup (similar to the cause of diahrea), with organic.
    With inorganic, the microorganisms that fight off diseases for their own survival, and thus the plants, are in a constant flux of life and death. Organic nitrogen, on the other hand, does not cause this constant flux where sometimes, the disease fighting microorganisms are completely absent at a particular time due to dieoff. What it is all about is a stable soil, and thus, a healthier one. Sounds like nirvana don't it Kudz.

  • mackel_in_dfw
    13 years ago

    Essentially what we are seeking is a stable and slowly evolving microflora, and this will reflect in a stable plant because the plant is not having to make constant adjustments re: the soil.

  • mackel_in_dfw
    13 years ago

    As the plant is constantly adapting to a fluxuating soil environment, it shift energy away from fighting disease. Make no mistake, mites are a disease. Excessive water due to where you live, Kudz, puts even more burden on the immune system and energy devoted toward adaptation, up there in yankeeland. So what do you think of the mad science, at least seems to make sense, no?

  • mackel_in_dfw
    13 years ago

    So, the step beyond whether we use commercial or not, which is not really what I'm getting at ultimately, is how do we improve the stability of the soil, increases the predators of parasites, and do it cheap. That's where we can separate ourselves from the apes. But I do believe it takes a leap for most people who have been always doing a certain way, etc.

  • mackel_in_dfw
    13 years ago

    This is a link to my favortie organic guy regarding organic treatment of bamboo mites. The guy's next door neighbor has had bamboo for like twenty years.

    Here is a link that might be useful: Bamboo Mites

  • alan_l
    13 years ago

    I was excited to click the organic mite treatment link, but there's really not anything of great value there. Foliar spray (of any type, organic or otherwise) is great for small or medium-sized potted plants, but for a grove in the ground, foliar spray just won't work. There's just no way to spray the underside of every leaf.

    Maybe it will reduce the mite population somewhat, but it won't eradicate it.

  • mackel_in_dfw
    13 years ago

    Give it a whirl, report back please. It sounds like he's saying it's a nutrient deficiency that is weakening the immune response of the bamboo, and the spray doesn't need to hit every leaf. Couldn't hurt. He also mentions using it to drench the soil, that is why I'm thinking it's a micronutrient deficiency perhaps. And lay off the high nitrogen doses if you're not already, in order for it to work.

  • mackel_in_dfw
    13 years ago

    I hope you don't think I'm wacky. But I am, a little bit.

    I know you know more about bamboo than I. I like to experiment, and have lots of rubro to do it with.

    I'm always open to ideas, and certainly respect yours. Don't think I don't respect what you're saying about different climates. Absolutely, I agree with you about different climates.

    Regards,
    Mackel in DFW

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