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aiwelaweka

getting started

aiwelaweka
17 years ago

Aloha,

I recently started clearing some family land to grow Taro here on Kauai. My uncle scattered about 7 hives around the place that he was tending. It has been over a year since anything has been done with these hives. I would like to begin taking care of these hives.

what is the rule on moving hives? the area is about 1/2 acre, and I would like to move all the hives into one area. How can this be done?

I would like to clean up the area also because it is very overgrown.

any advice would help.

aloha e aloha e

Comments (2)

  • bejay9_10
    17 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I'll jump in here, although someone with more experience in moving hives would be your best bet.

    I see a lot of trucks filled with bee hives in our rural areas, when bee keepers specializing in pollinating commercial crops, move hives from one place to another. But I presumed they must have the hives set up to be moved by machinery (pretty obvious- huh?).

    Anyway, you didn't specify whether these hives are actively being used by the bees, or if they need renovating or not. In other words moving a box of living, healthy bees, poses one problem, whilst dealing with bee boxes no longer in active use, would be another.

    Obviously, if the bees are to be replaced with new bees, the job of moving them would be quite simple, after cleaning, disinfecting the hives, frames, etc., and replacing the frames with new comb foundations - in preparation for the new colony.

    As most hives are built on the Dadent style formula, which means the boxes are of standard size, able to be moved from one level to another, and are without top or bottom on the individual box. If you wish to embark on keeping bees, some good books on the subject will give pictures of their placement and internal set-up.

    Soooo - assuming you have empty boxes to deal with, wanting to start new colonies, I would clean and disinfect them first. Some other postings have given the methods for using lye solution for this. While I have a small colony, my usual method for disinfecting, is to use a propane torch (Home Depot) and scorch the inside of the boxes, frames, etc., and rinse them thoroughly, replacing the frames with wax inserts before replacing in the hive boxes.

    After disinfecting, the boxes are then ready to move - after clearing the area to be used. Starting with the top cover, remove the top super, 2nd lower super, next, etc., then the bottom board (landing platform). Replace the landing platform where you want it, then replace the brood boxes, top off with smaller supers, etc., then cover. Just reversing the order.

    That's assuming the boxes are EMPTY and will then be ready for reintroduction of new bees and queen, once the hives are set up for receiving them with the frames and wax inserts properly placed - their new apartments are ready to start housekeeping.

    This is getting to be a bit long - and if you have active bees, that would entail another bit of "strategy."

    In that case, I would suggest you have someone inspect the hives if they still have active bees working. You may be able to find someone in your yellow pages of the phone book - most bee exterminators, are also bee keepers, who may - for a small fee, come and smoke the bees, open the hives and give you some expert opinions on the state of the existing colony.

    Moving such a hive, of course, would require a bit more expertise - as it involves donning a suit, bee bonnet, gloves, and using a bee smoker to facilitate entry and manipulation - cuz those bees will be MAD!

    Would be nice to know the condition of those hives presently, so as to give better advice - and also I would do some learning first (books/classes), before attempting the venture on my own.

    When I purchased my first nuc of bees in a single brood box. The bee keeper nailed the entrance shut on the bottom board and it was attached to the brood box. I moved the box in my truck to its new location, and after dark, removed the entrance board (bees won't fly at night). In the morning, the bees were able to fly out and orient themselves to their new surroundings.

    I might add, this type of manipulation, can sometimes be unsettling to the bees, and they may or may not swarm - which of course, presents a new maneuver - making it necessary to try for recapture. I try to visualize what moving a LOT of active hives might be like - but honestly, it pains be deeply to think about it - LOL.

    Just my 2 c's.

    Bejay

  • tonybeeguy
    17 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    if the hives are active,and you want to move them less than a few miles away it has to be done in small increments, otherwise the bees will come back to their original location, even if it's ten or fifteen feet away and be looking to no avail for their home. This can create a real problem. You can probably move each hive 1/2 to 1 foot a day and see if that works. How far apart are they and how far do you have to move them? An alternative would be to move them to another locatation several miles away, then after a week bring them back. but this would entail moving them twice. When I'm moving a hive, I get a few scraps of wood and place them across both hive bodies,screw the hive bodies together close the entrance with screen and put a strap around the entire hive then move at night. There could be nothing worse than having a hive fall apart while you are in the process of moving it.

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