This was our first year with bees, and we have Langtroth hives: the cost for the 2 hives plus bees was in excess of $200. They require some attention, but I think all bees do. I do a general check our hives once every couple of weeks...watch the bees, replace the hive beetle traps, look for definite signs of trouble, and then go away.

In your PA location, you may want to look at the Bjorn Apiaries web site, or even contact them. He has information on top bar, warre, and others. The site is http://www.bjornapiaries.com/, and he is in Pennsylvania.

I build my own boxes and buy smaller items like inner cover, screened bottom board, outer cover although these can also be built. Go to www.beesource.com. On the left column they have all the info you need for all types of hives. Also a good forum source for questions.

My biggest caution, be very careful. The bees are quite alluring and you will fall in love with them. It is a great hobby.

Good Luck

Build your own boxes, buy the frames. I vote for Langstroth.

the start up cost dependas if you make it or not ,, a lang hive will bee hiest ,, if you are looking for cheep , look at the top bar ,, you can make one in a few hours and very little out put in $$$ .. and you don't have to have a lot of tools ,, or be a wood worker ... and they are a good hive to work no heavy lifting ,, just learn how to hold the frames

Go with a langstroth hive body, 10 frame hive, with dadant frames, it's the proven standard and the frames are interchangable. If you have the tools, they are pretty easy and inexpensive to build. head for the lumber yard and buy some #2 pine, 3/4' and for less than $75 lumber cost, you should be able to build 4 hive bodies, and 40 dadant frames. You will also need to purchase the foundations about $1 apiece. You will save at least $200 - $300 buy building your own.
Greg Watkevich

If you are on a budget and you decide to go with langstroth hives, try going foundationless. I have langstroth hives and I have never used foundation. Not buying foundation saves me money. That frees up more money for purchasing more hives and more bees. I use the "wedge" frames. I remove the wedge from the top bar and turn it 90 degrees and staple it back on with a 1/4" crown air stapler. I use 5/8" long staples for the wedge and 1" long staples to assemble the rest of the frame. This gives the bees a guide to build their comb on. Otherwise, who knows where they will start to build it? Another thing that might save you money is to catch swarms. You might be able to get on a call list for swarm removal. Check with local law enforcement in your area or agricultural extension agencies. You might also catch swarms with bait hives, often called swarm traps. You can build your own or buy the manufactured wood pulp ones that look like a large flower pot. Mann Lake has the cheapest ones and they are impregnated with asphalt to hold out to the weather a little longer. A bee pheromone lure or lemongrass oil should be used to attract scout bees looking to relocate the swarm. I tried this last year a little late in the swarm season, but did manage to get a swarm to move in a wood pulp bait hive on the last day of June. This year I will get them out in late April. Our main swarm season in Nebraska is May, but it can start in late April and go through June, depending on conditions.

After stating with the 'standard', 'modern' Langstroth hives then reading more and more about natural beekeeping and the minimal or nonexistent health and pest problems we are building Warre hives and wishing we had known about it before. Guess my preferences have been made known with the above remarks. JL