The few things I know about overwintering begonias (especially tuberous and cane begonias) are: Give it less water than you think it needs. Less even than that. Give it as much light as possible. Then when it goes outside again, give it shade (as usual) and a bit more water, but still less than you might think.

Thanks for your answer. I'll give it a try!

Norma

I have a nonspecified angle wing begonia that I got from my mom in the beginning of fall two years ago. I've managed to keep it alive during two winter seasons, it went completely dormant once and I feared it dead, but I decided to give it a chance. Eventually it rebounded once i put it outside when spring came around. This last winter, I thought it was done for, because my roommate's lovely cats would alway fight around it, and once tipped it over while i was gone and the plant came out of the pot. Of course my room mate just left it there, lying on the floor for 3 days... but luckily it came back. It also has been peed on a few times by the cats, and scratched.

Due to this, I think that angel wing begonias are very easy to overwinter. Even, if it loses its leaves, they just come back from the canes.

This is what I do with non-stop begonias. I learned this from my 86 yr old mother. If they are in pots, let the frost hit and destroy the plant. Don't let the pot freeze. Bring your pots indoors into a basement. When spring comes, I bring them into my sunroom. Any living area of your house would probably work. They soon begin to sprout and when all danger of frost is over, I take them out. How beautiful!

I grow numerous Non Stop� Begonia plants. The majority of them I started from pelleted seeds the first year in January. In the fall I simply cut the plant back, carefully lift the tuber that has formed, dry them in a dark cool place for a couple of weeksand store them in perlite or wood shavings until the following January. I guess it would be acceptable to store them in the soil, I just don't like running the risk of them getting a fungus or them rotting.

Tuberous Begonia's can be started by good pelleted seeds and will form a tuber during their growth cycle. Fibrous Begonia's will not. Non Stop Begonia's will not produce viable seeds on their own in most cases, or definately won't be the same as the parent plant if you do get some viable seeds.

Many of the tuberous begonia's are actually sterile, with the male flower being the largest and prettiest and the female being the tinier flower. These tuberous Begonia's will put on their best show if you actually pinch the female flower and allow the male to develop fully.

If you have another tuberous Begonia that you know the male is not sterile, you can sometimes cross them with the Non Stop and get some viable seeds. Because tuberous Begonia's need a rest, the tuber has to become dormant at some point. If your planning on saving your tubers, cut all but a couple of flowers off in the early fall and allow the tubers to get as much energy stored as possible for the next seasons growth, I have actually been able to get 3 - 4" tubers from seed in the first year.