The giant form of bulbosa is an extremely fine plant. This species is considered ageotropic, meaning it grows up, down, sideways, etc. In the wild they are normally found growing horizontally or upside down to prevent the bulb from rotting, which is also a haven for ants (myrmecophytic). Their bright red blooms can be seen amongst the darker foliage in which they live. They prefer medium light and high humidity. Some hybrids have been made that weigh almost one pound!

I'd look around for a container big enough to submerge the bark and all. Maybe go to Walmart and buy a plastic dishpan....

Definitely remount the plant or simply turn the piece of bark upside down. This is true for all the "bulbous" Tillandsias and many others besides - they do much better if not grown straight up.

In New York you don't have a choice about keeping it indoors during winter, but it will do fine as an outdoor plant in the summer. Grow it in light shade or dappled sunlight, changing light levels gradually.

Thanks for the info. The plant is indeed fine. I'm usually more into trees, as my user name suggests, but I had to have this guy when it caught my eye at the nursery. I do have a couple more quesitons about re-mounting it though. I'll probably orient it horizontally with the growing end slightly lower than the base. What is the best way to mount them? As I mentioned in my original message, the roots are covered with some light/fluffy potting mix and then with some sphagnum moss to prevent the soil from going everywhere. Is this good/bad/does it matter? Also, will the roots eventually take hold of the wood it's mounted on, or will I depend on the fishing line I'm using to hold it there indeffinately? Lastly, how often should I submerge the guy for a drink? Is once a week with mistings in between good enough? Thanks again!

How I do it is to use Liquid Nails (tm) as a cement; usually it is necessary to prop it up while the glue dries. I then shred up some long fiber sphagnum and sprinkle it over the still-tacky cement. With the right growing conditions, mainly enough humidity, you will get roots. I would forego the soil, but the watering schedule you mention should do OK unless your home is a real oven - as many houses are in winter! If you find the air a bit sticky for comfort, it probably is about right for the plant.

madabouteu, thanks for responding, I was hoping that my questions wouldn't go unanswered! I re-mounted it the other day with the growing tip slightly below horizontal. The plant already had a great many roots when I bought it, between 1" and 2.5". I used just enough loose potting soil to cover the roots on the bark, placed just enough damp green sphagnum moss over it to keep it from falling or rinsing away, and secured the sphagnum as well as the plant with fishing line. I still have a couple questions, so thanks for bearing with me. Will the soil be detrimental at all or is it something that really doesn't matter? Also, do you know if it's roots will eventually take hold of the bark it's mounted on? I placed the soil over top of the roots in hopes that that is what would happen. Lastly, after it flowers, will the pups form their own root systems and "self-mount" to the bark slab behind them, will they use the mother plant's root system with only the foliar part of the mother dying away, or will they need some encouragment from me to stay attached? I found a couple pictures of some impressive mature clumps of T. bulbosa online, and am hoping mine will eventually look similar. I must be doing at least something right, it's sent out one full leaf and one on the way since I purchased it this past saturday! Thanks again for the help and info.

When attaching your Tillandsias to a mounting, no soil should be used. This can stay damp and may lead to basal rotting of your plant. Best to just secure it with either the "liquid Nails'(my fave), fishing line , thin gauge wire or the proverbial green stretch plant tape. The pups will produce their own root system, separate from the parent, and attach to the bark.

Thanks all for the info. The bulbosa just started pushing out its flower spike yesterday. Hopefully I can get some pics to share (hard for me due to the lack of a digital camera).

You can use Liquid Nails or E-6000 to glue the plant to a piece of velcro & glue the other part of the velcro onto the bark. That way you can take the plant off for watering.

CarolynA: Thanks for the input. I never would have thought to do that!

My T. bulbosa has finished flowering (sorry, no pics). I bought some liquid nails and am thinking abour re-mounting it before it starts to pup. I also purchased a seedling T. caput-medusae and a seedling T. xerographica. There was some spanish moss entangled in these two that I separated and have hanging on its own. I can't wait until the seedlings flower.

I would like to ask anyone and everyone with experience about putting these guys outside for the summer. What is the best light exposure (full sun, dappled shade, complete shade, etc. and if it would benefit them to face a particular direction (N/S/E/W). They are currently to the left side of a southern exposure window such that they recieve good lighting from about 1:00 on. Thanks again!