Hold on, they are not that bad....and with help and suggestions I think you might just have gotten a really good deal.

I would personally go to extremes..others would say "Scott, your nuts" but this is what I would do here in my Zone 6b...in this order...I would spray them heavily with a garden house, remove them from their pots, spray off as much soil from roots (carefully) and inspect roots, repot in new clean terra cotta pots just a size or two larger then what they are currently potted in, soil mix - I'd use Miracle Grow Potting Soil 1/3, Perlite 1/3, Sphagnum Peat 1/3 mixed very well, top plants with 1/2" - 1" Perlite, water with Miracle grow fertilzer, superthrive, & ferti-lome Liquid Iron - all at 1/4 strength until draining throughly out bottom of pots, place pots in low windy area with lots of shade for 1 month, then slowly expose to more and more light. I would probably even go as far as trimming 1/4 of plants from the tops now....Will encourage branching - dispose of the tips, nobody wants diseased stock.

Hey...best of luck - I'm sure we will be seeing beautiful pics of huge blossoms and scents that fill your neighborhood next spring - early summer 2010....!!!!

-Scott

That's great advise Scott...Don't give up lovetogrowflowers!!..They will be totally worth the work to get them healthy :)

knotz

Those appear to have a deficiency, not Mosaic Virus and they really look pretty good. They just look a bit chlorotic but that's no big deal. I used to use Epsom Salts but many of the plants are deficient in iron as well as magnesium. I'm using Cal-Mag Plus now which contains iron, magnesium, calcium and nitrogen and is specifically for treating chlorosis. You can use it when you water and as a foliar spray. It's made by Botanicare but I'm sure there's other companies that make similar solutions. If you can't find it just try some Epsom Salts. 1 tbl sp of ES to a gallon of water 1x/mo. The Cal-Mag can be used 1x/wk along with your regular fertilizer.

I want to add a few things. I'm not trying to contradict Scott but I don't see any reason to cut them back or repot them. I wouldn't shade them for a month either. They look like they've been in the sun already and should be able to reaclimate witin a week. I'm also anti Miracle Grow products. They have a high salt content that can build up over a long period but there's plenty of people that swear by it so I guess it's a personal choice. Any soil is fine as long as it's not that water retaining crap if you ammend it with perlite, coir, etc to promote drainage. If you want a soil that you can use straight out of the bag with no ammending use one of the all purpose Farfad mixes, like 3B or 52 Mix. There's also a brand called Happy Frog (I know, stupid name lol) that contains mycorrhizae and humic acid.

Karyn,

See thats why you you have to use Epsom Salts once monthly; that explains an awful lot now.....LMAO...!!!

I do swear by MG, I only use ES when I first put my babies out in late April/mid May and then again before bring them all back inside towards the end of October. At exactly the dose Karen has so graciously offered!!!

I'd leave them out longer but thats when Jill takes over the porch and kicks my butt to the curb...Halloween Decoration/Thanksgiving Decorations/Christmas Lights, Christmas Trees, and Christmas Music invade my semi-partial greenhouse porch escape from school, the daily grind, and the plainly insane...LOL!!!

-Scott

P.S. lovetogrowflowers, what ever you chose to do, chances are you will do just fine. I do, however, have to agree with Karen on the chlorosis deficiencies, I think she hit the nail on the head with that suggestion...but then again thats why she is the resident Master Gardner!!!!!

***Just pickin on you karen, you make it way to easy...and oh ya, I'm ready to move to the GH now!!!!!!

Karyn, Scott, don't you think that the growing tips look stunted, like broadmites?
Lovestogrowflowers, do those new little leaves feel really thick and hard, not soft and supple like the larger leaves?
FORBID knocked out my broadmite infestation that my brugs had in July. Spraying hard with water may have some effect on broadmites, if you have them, but I have too many brugs to do that treatment.
Listen to Karyn....... Don't cut the tops, that's where your blossoms will come from, and just move to larger pots with good draining soil. And if there is a mineral deficiency, I just add Ironite granular at the correct rate of application, because the granules have calcium and trace minerals with them. Has worked really good for me. Ironite also comes in a spray.
Good luck and welcome, I don't get on here too often and you are a new face to me.
~Brenda

These pics do resemble broad mite infestation...gottahosta, has a point!

Now, judging by the size of the siding on the house, the Astroturf, windowsill, and the chair....I would guess that those pots are 1 gallon pots...right? They also look to be stem cuttings, probably rooted last year and then not very well cared for since. So - I'm a bit confused as to "Why not trim back the plants now?" Forgoing buds this late in the season on plants in this condition probably isn't a bad idea...no?
I would definitely trim, (the more I think about it - the more I'm thinking, cut it back so you just get as many "Y's" as you can and get rid of all the greenwood cuttings - bag them and get them as far away from your plants as possible) knowing chances of getting blooms this year would be out of the question - in order to save these plants, put all my effort, money, & time into making the plants as strong as possible now for a bigger and more healthy plant next season...why carry over plants in not 100% condition (maybe 60 - 75%) over winter. She could and I believe trim now, treat now, and enjoy for many many years to come.
Just my opinion - I'm sure a few more members will chime in tonight....all excellent options so far...!

-Scott

Brenda a mineral deficiency can give the same appearance and make the leaves brittle. I thought for sure I had another Broad mite infestation and treated with Forbid but nothing happened. Any other time I get results really fast so I took some foliage to the guys at the hydroponics store. These guys are kind of odd but incredibly knowledgeable. They thought it was a mineral deficiency by looking at the leaves but couldn't be sure. Evidently I should have also brought a soil sample in, oh well. Anyway I treated with the Cal-Mag and the problem resolved within 10 days. The foliage is soft and normal looking. I was advised to continue with the Cal-Mag weekly. It's a sight of a lot cheaper then the Forbid! lol

Lovetogrowflowers what zone are you in? Potting up has a lot to do with how much time is left in your growing season. You also never transplant for a week minimum after getting a new plant unless it's in a severly damaged container. Even if you have roots coming from the drainage holes you want to give the plants time to adjust.

Welcome to the forum lovetogrowflowers. Wish it was under happier circumstances but at least you are getting all the help you need.

Brenda I thought broadmites to for the curled under leaves...Not connecting the dots to the other bad looking things.

Karyn that makes a lot of sense and thank you again for taking the time to try to safe some more angels.

I just love all the experience and knowledge around here

Lucy

Thanks for all your replies. I will definetely take advice from this forum. I can tell you folks know what you're talking about. Now, my only concern is the hardness of the leaves. They are curled and brittle. Hopefully it's not mites. I also read not to use tap water somewhere. What do I water with then?

I would treat them for deficiency. rinse the top leaves with the hose and hope it comes from the deficiency...but the pros will answer that one better.

All I know is with the drought and having SO MANY brugs...there is NO WAY I could NOT USE TAP WATER.

Lucy

Thanks so much. Everyone here is so helpful. I did go to Lowes, Homedepot anad Wal-Mart just now and found nothing called Cal-Mag. The only thing I found that may help (and need your input) is Ironite.

It contains Nitrogen 7.0%, Phosphate 6%, soluble potash 6%, sulfer 1%, boron .02%, Iron .1%, water soluble iron .1%, Manganese .05%, water soluble mangnaese .05%, zinc .05% and water soluble zinc .05%

I've used it before on my azaleas. My question this time is, do I use the ironite along with the tablespoon of Epsom Salt? And, since I do use Miracle Gro liquid mixed with water and have had luck with it, when should I fertilize? I was concerened that the leaf discolorazation was to much fertilizer.

So, the break down of question are:

1. Do I use the Ironite along with the epsom salt or don't use the ironite at all? If not, I seen nothing else. So, I assume just use the epsom salt.

2. Do they look like they have been over fertilized? If not, when would you fertilize?

3. I hate these hard brittle, curled leaves. If by some chance it is Broad Mites, what do I use to treat them with? I cannot afford Forbid, $229.

The funny thing is, this nursery had over 100 of these plants and they all looked identical. Yellow, curling brittle leaves. Just trying to figure this out.

#1 yes you may use both. Epsom salts is a tonic and enables the plant to take up more nutrients along with giving it a boost of Magnesium. It is NOT a fertilizer.

#2 They do not look over fertilized to me, they may have had some in the past month because the newer growth is a darker green.Nurseries are well know to not fertilize, it is not cost efficient/effective. I would start with the ironite and Epsom salts first and wait 2 weeks to see the results, then start fertilizing, otherwise you will not know what made the difference.

#3 I have never had to deal with broad mites, I will leave this one up to others to answer.

As for re-potting, I still have not seen what zone you are in to know what to suggest.

Just use the Ironite, not the ES as the Ironite contains manganese. Does the container say how often to apply? If not I'd probably go with 1x/mo but use fertilizer weekly. Brugs are very heavy feeders. You want to D/C fertilizer about 4 weeks before it's time to let them go dormant, if they are going to go dormant. It really would help to know where you are located. If you do end up having Broad mites you could try Neem but I honestly don't think that does **** Do a search under broad mite treatment. I looked quickly and a number of sites came up. As for tap water I really don't have a choice. I have to use it. I collect rain water but there's never enough. My plants don't seem to mind but I have no idea what kind of water I have, hard vs soft?

Ruth Ann, Thanks so much for the tips. I believe I am in Zone 8. I'm in Newnan, GA 30263.

Karyn, Thank you as well for all the advice you have given. I'm in Newnan, GA 30263. I think if I read the map right I'm in Zone 8. The ironite just says add ironite to your plants each time you water as part of a continuos feeding program at the following rates:

For most flowering plants 1/2 capful per galloon of water.

In Georgia I would plant those Brugs into the ground NOW to give them as much time as possible to get settled in before winter.Do not cut them back at all prior to or after planting. Once they die back with the cold, mulch well over top of them ( 12 inches would be good) and they will come up in the spring and start all over again for you and be much healthier over all.

It appears that Ironite has the same application rate as the Cal-Mag but I wouldn't use it at every watering or you'd be using it daily. I'd use it along with your fertilizer. I don't think the application instructions take into account that most brugs need daily watering during the summer. BTW if Ruth Ann says you can use the ES and Ironite together I'd go with that as she has more experience with brugs then I do. She also grows some of the biggest plants I've seen outside of a tropical zone.

Absolutely, follow ruth ann - in your zone get them into the earth ASAP...Not to worry to much re: Tap water...I don't know anyone who gets enough rain to water strictly with rain water, get addition if you can...but definitely don't allow this to haunt you. As far as the Ironite and ES use together. I strictly container grow - and I've used both for years...no problem there...however, I never use any chemicals, amendments, or fertilizers at full strength, I've always gone with 1/4 strength of label suggestions and apply 2X as often...tend to work even with pests...for me at least.

Best of luck with your venture in the Brugs, soon you'll find your planting Datura...then something else...and again now your searching for room for yet another plant!!! Very addictive hobby....LOL..!!! Have fun with it - never be afraid to ask question, experiment on inexpensive plants, and I really want to see pics once you get them in the ground.....

-Scott

Thank you all so very much. I appreciate and will take all advice. You're all so helpful. I'm sure I'll be back for more questions later.

I'm by far no brug expert, but I do have a hort. degree. I had the same thought as Brenda, only I thought the curled deformed leaves looked like thrip damage too me.
As far as a deficiency that causes deformed/curled leaves, that would be Calcium and or Boron.
Just my 2 cents :)