After personal experience, no. I used something similar and my soil would not rewet last year. I would try to water and the water would just roll over the sides of the pot or down the sides between the pot and the soil. I would slow water a pot for ten minutes and check with a water meter. The root ball would be bone dry. I had to redo about 50 small pots. When peat dries out between waterings, it is next to impossible to rewet. Once it's wet, it takes forever to dry out. I ended up using 2 parts pine bark fines, 2 parts high fired clay, and 1 part peat. I am still finding the soil to be a bit hydrophobic when I let it dry completely between waterings. I when out and bought Bed a Beast at PetsMart. It is the same thing as coir and about $5.99 for a block that expands to 7 quarts. I am going to use this in place of the peat because I read on the forum in several different places that it is less hydrophobic and will re-wet more easily after it becomes completely dry. I am also adding fish tank gravel, the non-colored kind. I live in Houston and it is very humid here. I need the soil to be free draining. I don't think location will make the peat any less hydrophobic when it dries out though.

You asked this same question on the houseplants forum. I think it was answered (about "why not" to use that mix). It applies the same for succulents.
If you do a search on here and on the houseplants forum there are tons of posts on the topic of soil mixes. I'll attach the link to your previous post with the answer to your above question, in case you didn't see it.
Gabi

Here is a link that might be useful: Other post

I see the above link, but to reiterate the main points, here's the scoop.

For C&S, the mix you're suggesting would not be good because: vermiculite will keep the soil too moist for most C&S, as will peat, along w/ the difficulties mentioned above abt re-wetting peat once it's dry.

I'd suggest either 1 pt. C&S mix, 1 pt. perlite & 1 pt. peat if you must use peat; otherwise, I'd suggest just 1/2 C&S mix & 1/2 perlite. That will ensure a fast draining mix.

Personally, I stay away from any mixes which contain wetting agents (will keep the mix more moist than one wants for most C&S) & fertilizers (I want fertilizers under my control, only, to be given when the plants are in active growth, rather than all year long which would be the case w/ mixes containing fertilizers).

I've often experimented with soil mixes. I use vermiculite for seeds and cuttings, but not for long term use, as it collapses pretty quickly. I like peat moss, sphagnum moss, and sphagnum peat as organic matter in the ground, but have used less and less with houseplants, especially succulents (I do mix sphagnum peat and perlite for my Venus Fly Trap). Sphagnum peat is used by some for seeds, as it seems to ward off "damping off". Like others here, I use perlite and calcined clay or something similar (ie, turface, espoma soil perfector, schultz aquatic or clay soil conditioner, lesco soilmaster pros choice, fullers earth, etc) to provide aeration, drainage, and a more permanent structure. I also add some conifer bark (orchid mixes are mostly fir bark, but I've also used pine bark mulch, picking out the largest pieces). I've put in some coir, too, but don't really know if it helps. C&S tend not to need as much ferts as many other plants (especially Mesembs and Crassulaceae), but I will mix in some slow release ferts with some, or use a little soluble if the plants are ACTIVELY growing. I also will vary the mix depending on the type of plants, so epiphytic cactus get more bark, and terrestrial cactus get some crushed gravel (or growers grit). If your plants are doing well, make changes gradually, and see how it affects them. Of course, try and maximize their light exposure, especially since you're in zone 2. Just make sure you increase light gradually when you put them outside, to avoid sunburn. Good growing to you!
Ray