If not lower than 38F, no problem. Keep DRY.

HI Howard
I don't know how good the weatherman is in se Michigan
but hear in NY they have been known to be off by 10 degrees or more on any given day, is it worth it.
If you get in a bind I have a solution, it involves a big box, post office and visitation rites. just kidding.
did you ever get your shelves and lights set up in your basement because I found a simple way to hang easy to adjust shelves.

Richard

Thanks to both. As you know, the temperature is the "low" all night long. It hits about 3AM and by 8AM it's back up into the mid/upper 40's.

Richard, your setup is very interesting. Where is it located...greenhouse, solarium...????

My other big question for you, Richard, is how does someone who lives up "north" have an unprotected swimming pool. In Florida we all had Mansard enclosures to keep out the nasties......

This post was edited by bikerdoc5968 on Thu, Oct 2, 14 at 13:08

Thanks for asking this one Howard, cuz I was wondering the SAME thing. Mine are ok so far. Though I don't want to push my luck! Hope it is a mild winter like they are saying now for us here in Michigan. That would be a great break from LAST WINTER.

this set up is in my sun room and office but I have adopted it to fit under an overhang out side to be brought in. all it involves is the I bolts to hang the chain S hooks to make the shelves adjustable which I found to be necessary. lights are hung with the same s hooks.
as for the pool it has been there for over thirty years and gets used every year by the neighborhoods kids along with my grand children

Richard

Most Gymnos and Echeverias will briefly tolerate 32F⦠and many Echeverias and some Gymnos will even tolerate 20F, though not for any prolonged duration. I have lots of Echeverias here in California mountains where it gets down to 20F yearly, though briefly, and so far only the fancy hybrid Echeverias cannot tolerate those temps. Gymnos can be a lot pickier, with some being unaffected, and others dead overnight.

My echies have been fine down to 36 degrees overnight, with the exception of E. laui and its hybrids which I haven't tested - I always bring those in.

Thanks to all. I've been working all day to get organized for the big move early next week. There's always more to it than just moving things from one spot to another. I check for insects, remove dead leaves and give a last sprinkle of imidacloprid granules. The greenhouse is a mess, and I will attend to it next week, too!!! I have about 15 trays to take to the basement. This is my staging area; the lights are up so I will be able to get the trays on the tables. Each table is 18" x 36". The lights are 92 ' long with six T 5 bulbs in each rated at 6500 K.

I do believe that for those lights to be effective they will have to be a lot closer and don't forget air movement.

Richard

I just wanted to say your plants look amazing and I'm so jealous :')

Richard,
Thank you so much for posting your way of wintering plants. Great Idea. I am going to use it next year. Too late for this year. Hanging from chains. And it leaves the bottoms empty for cleaning. Also it's coldest at the bottom. Win, win. And I like your collection. Got to be hard to keep up with.
Howard,
You would get much more room using Richard's method. You are out of time. Saturday is a killer for us here at Pittsburgh. Got to be getting colder for you guys up there. Also I think you went overboard this year, just as I did. I almost got a 10 x 12 greenhouse for $150. Deal fell thru. He may sell it next year.

Stan, while I admire Richard's layout, I would need bottoms for over 100 plants so the water doesn't drain onto the light below. Trust me, I've spent many hours trying to think up a system to stack plants in the greenhouse with lights such that the water wouldn't damage the lower lights. I know someone who grows orchids under lights and has them staked four shelves high. He was fortunate to salvage USPS trays to use as large basins. He drilled a drainage hole in the front corner, inserted a tapered plug and connected a plastic tube to drain into a bucket. Everyone has their special situation and comes to some resolution. For this year, I am going to test this method. For me, the water will drain onto the cement floor and into the floor drain to the sewer.

My echeverias seem to thrive in those temps, they actually look their best in the fall and winter months even when we're down in 30's. Of course that's the 30's in Southern California . ðÂÂÂ

Greg

Thanks, Greg. Our low tonight is supposed to be 43F. Not too bad...it's the mid 30's after that! And with little or no sunshine, I think it's time to find warmer digs. I am leaving my Cymbidiums out for a few more weeks.

Well, I was fearful of leaving things go much longer with evening temps dipping into the upper 30's and rain and just nasty fall weather. So now those bare tables are filled! The lights are about 8" from the plants and the current temp at plant level is 72F. Suggestions as to what else I should do/adjust are always welcome.

where do you get all these beautiful plants? Succulents and cacti seem to be somewhat harder to find (or rather, less popular) plants where I live and finding any duo colored or pink/purple/red ones is near impossible :/

IMCF, where do you live? many plants are available online. Many people on this forum are open to trade plants or exchange for the postage.

Howard,
How much water should I give my Echeveria? Should I let them really dry out before watering. I know this summer they had way too much.
Stush

Stush,

Most New World Crassulaceae are / can be winter-growers - there aren't many that aren't. If you give them light/warmth at a tolerable level, they should be watered about 2x a month in later- fall/winter/early-spring.

I live in Canada, Vancouver to be exact. I dont know if the rainy weather here makes cacti/succulents a less popular choice in nurseries but the variety I have seen is well.. sad.. :( I've seen pink/purple/red (or any non green) ones maybe twice in the last 3 months.

Also, is it possible to bring plants through customs? Not sure if the laws would be different via different methods (mail, bringing it in person) or if it's permitted at all.

I research my Echeveria species as to their hardiness. I leave the ones that can take it out for mild frooxts. Some, I put in the ground ( E runyonii, lilacina , puldonis, black prince, agavoides) outside and throw a frost cloth over it if gets below 25. Some of them are hardy to upper teens and E runyonnii needs no covering. The others I bring in at 32. I have had no problems with them.

Some of mine don't mind being dormant durng winter kept in dim light, window sides and wall corners untill the east sun returns.

Richard

I am wondering how far apart are the chains/bolts you are hanging your shelves from.
All those clay pots must be pretty heavy.
I have same shelves, supported by the brackets but need to add some chains (they are in front of the windows that are quite wide & there isn't anything to attach shelve brackets to closer than 38" - not enough support), there is some sagging between the brackets.

TIA. Rina

HI Rina
I don't want to hijack Howards post .
I will start a new one as soon as I can upload some pictures.

Richard

Not to worry and no need for another thread, Richard. Have at it and be my guest.

Howard

Is your basement set-up only for echeverias? Would all of them require same temps-watering-feeding?
So many beautiful colors.
I use plastic trays that are actually from seeding/propagation kits; black is the bottom & clear for a top. I use both as drip trays.
Rina

Rina, no. I just had to decide what would be where and I want to see if the lights will keep them from getting etiolated and yes it's easier to keep plants that require the same/similar care are all in one place.