Julie,
I have windows, but not enough (or large enough) to accommodate that much. I use many lights for the winter period. I use standard 4' long, double tube, florescent shop lights (I've read and heard that better florescent fixtures last longer and some can put out more light), these work just fine. I have found that one fixture works great to cover an area of 4' long and up to 2' wide, keep the lights as close to the plants as possible (mostly within 6" of the top fo the plants). I change the tubes every year (after 6 months they start losing some of their lumen), and usually need to replace the fixture every 10 years.

Bringing the plants in isn't much of a problem, taking out in the spring means to keep them in a shady spot for at least a week to acclimate (I use a 50% shade cloth for the first week or two), then move them out to full sun or whatever that plant needs.

During the winter I try and keep the on/off times as near the same as possible to what is really happening outside, this promotes flowering. I also keep most in the basement where it is cooler to help stop growth and again promote flowering. Almost everything in the basement get no water from October to April, there will be a few that upon visual examination will require moisture once during the winter.

Here is a link to some pics of my lights.

Dan
Lincoln, NE USDA 5

Here is a link that might be useful: Light cabinets

Dan,
Thank you for the help. Your shelves are beautiful. What do you do about bushy, tall plants with growing points at many different heights? (I have a night blooming Epiphyllium thatÂs 6 feet tall) What about plants that need partial shade? Do I just put the light farther away?

Julie

Julie,
If you can get light to the upper branches/stems then that should keep anything from etiolating (cool temps/no water though) and there really shouldn't be much if any heat off of the tubes.
Plants that require partial shade or total shade will excel under lights. Putting lights close will still be less light than plants outside in partial shade, if they get red, stunted or burn, then yes, move them off a bit. I forgot to mention, I only use cool white tubes, mostly blue or ultra violet spectrum, these are cheapest and if you use warm white (red or infra red spectrum) it helps with blooming but causes more etiolation. Remember, you're just simulating light/dark times to promote blooming, you are not trying to get things to grow while indoors. Hope this helps and good luck.
Dan
Lincoln, NE USDA 5