Shop Products
Houzz Logo Print
elsch

Bahia- soil amendments, clay tolerant succulents?

elvie z9CA
12 years ago

Bahia, I am curious what particular ammendments you use to improve drainage for succulents here in the Bay Area with heavy clay soils.

I am in El Sobrante with a flat lot.

Also what are some of the most clay tolerant varieties, I read somewhere you said Aloe Thraskii was particularly tolerant of our wet winters... what are some others?

Thanks, and anyone else feel free to chime in!

Comments (8)

  • calistoga_al ca 15 usda 9
    12 years ago

    Other than addressing a drainage problem, I can not tolerate gardening on a flat lot. I am willing to pay the cost of a few yards of top soil to get away from that flat boring surface in which all the plants have the same emphasis. An undulating garden is so much more fun. Al

  • jenn
    12 years ago

    I'm glad you asked this question, Elvie.

    A question about the mounds: how do you keep the mounded soil from sliding downward? I'm assuming the mounds are wide enough with the plant in the center which is supported by the soil on the outside, and some of the outer soil will be lost as it slides down the pile.

  • Dick_Sonia
    12 years ago

    I have quite a few raised beds/mounds. Jenn is absolutely correct. Gravity, rain, wind and soil organisms are Nature's graders. Keeping mounds topped up is a continual chore. Rain will constantly erode your nice sloped sides and pretty soon you have exposed root crowns. Building soil is a chore anyway, so I keep at it. Eventually you'll get enough mass in the center that it will form a plateau and be somewhat less maintenance. As the slope of the perimeter around the sides of the mound gets lower and lower, erosion finally slows.

    Some kind of containment works best. This can be either formal or informal. I've used sawed-off lengths of 4-5" branches pounded into the ground at varying lengths (time-consuming, but looks okay), stones and bricks. You can also just build a low framework of scrap wood as a stop-gap measure while succulents with a spreading habit planted around the perimeter get established (the wood will eventually just rot away). Plant roots work wonders for holding soil. Remember that the mounds don't need to be that tall. If you use scree beds instead of clay mounds they can be shorter still.

  • jenn
    12 years ago

    dick_sonia: Thank you for the explanation; I've been wondering about this for a long time!

  • elvie z9CA
    Original Author
    12 years ago

    Thanks for your feedback Bahia and everyone.

  • bahia
    12 years ago

    Mounds don't erode or slough off if you give them sufficient room. 5:1 slopes,( one foot of rise in five feet of run) is plenty stable, and even more so if heavily planted and also mulched. We don't get intense and/or prolonged rains to create problems with gentle slopes. Most people seem to think a "mound" is more like a hump, and don't make them wide and gradual enough. The photo I am linking to here has mounds up to 18 inches above the sidewalk in the foreground, and is almost entirely planted with succulents and then mulched. There has been no erosion at all, after 3 years upon initial planting.

    Here is a link that might be useful: Mounds with succulents

  • hoovb zone 9 sunset 23
    12 years ago

    An undulating garden is so much more fun. Al

    Amen. I was uneasy when we moved to a hillside home, but now I'm happy with all the slopes. They make every plant visible.