Boxwood in most of So Cal (except right along the immediate coast) stays significantly greener with a half day of shade. The farther inland, the more shade is required. My best looking boxwood is in nearly full shade.

Yours is a little yellowed up from our hot Sept/October. You could sheer off the yellow bits, but wait until we get a good spell of cool weather without heat waves, to avoid sunburning the newly exposed foliage which won't be accustomed to full sun. It's the nature of the beastie; nothing you did.

Moving it into the shade this winter would be a permanent solution.

Amending of beds (or planting holes) with organic material on the other hand is not a permanent solution and should only be undertaken for temporary plantings of short-term subjects with small root systems like flowering annuals and vegetables. Individually amended holes in clay soils in particular can become collection points for water during wet conditions.

Hoovb...I didn't know they liked shade. I always thought they were a sun plant. Shows what I know! I'm glad, though, that you don't think they're diseased and that I can make them nice again.

Bboy...I know, clay sucks! Holes can become like pots with no drainage hole. What do you suggest for planting trees and shrubs in clay? I'd love your thoughts.

Thanks to both of you.

In many many climates--most climates--boxwood is indeed a full sun plant. For example where summers are cool, as in the UK, or where summers are humid, as in the Mid-Atlantic. Just not here where it's dry and intensely sunny and kind of warm most of the time.

A great alternative to boxwood for short clipped hedges here in full sun is common myrtle, Myrtus communis, which is a deep beautiful dark green, looks great as a clipped hedge, and gets along just fine on practically no supplemental irrigation at all--a monthly deep soaking in the dry season and nothing in the rainy season and it is beautiful. The foliage also has a marvelous scent. And you can get them inexpensively at big box stores.

The disadvantage of Myrtus communis that it is rather slow, but considering once they reach the size you want them, they don't need all that much clipping, is an advantage after all.

Clay soil doesn't suck. It is rich in nutrients and retains moisture. What makes clay far easier to work with is regular mulching on the soil surface, to hold in that moisture. Mulch that is allowed to break down over time into humus and is regularly renewed as it thins provides clay with excellent performance for most plants. Without mulch our clay turns to brick in the summer. With mulch, it stays moist and becomes looser over time as the humus is pulled down into it by earthworms.

If you have clay soils where good drainage may be at issue, plant high. Dig wide but shallow planting holes with gently sloped sides. Rough up the sides. Set the plant in the hole with top of the rootball above grade. Even a couple of inches higher than existing soil level won't hurt. Backfill with the same soil that was removed, unamended, mounding it so that meets the top of the rootball, creating a mini berm. Any amendments you feel you need to use, apply as a top dressing or mulch.

You're both giving me info I haven't heard before regarding clay soil. Very interesting. I will definitely keep it all in mind as I continue my planting. I'll also look into the Myrtus communis. Thanks so much!