I suppose it could be a anything that prevents water from reaching the leaves, from root rot, borer insects to a problem with the drip. Does your plant need more water than the drip irrigation is currently providing? Are the drip irrigation tubes water exits clean and not clogged? Make sure that the drip goes around the plant and not just passes on one side. That would make the opposite side of the roots get less water. Does your soil have nematode problems?

Just some things to think about....

I do know the drip tube had gotten broken off and that the bush may have been without water for a week or so after I worked on it. As soon as I noticed it we fixed it right away. It seems with a camellia that's been in the ground for quite a while that it shouldn't have hurt it too much, but I certainly may be wrong. The other environmental change that I just thought of is the bush that had been on the corner next to this camellia had been removed. It was a japonica called Clower or Clover White that could take some of the sun angling in during the summer, but the flowers on it were always brown and ugly, so I took it out.

It's possible it needs more water, and I will check. I do know that this particular flow rate and amount of time with the drip has worked for the past 3 years though.

As far as nematodes go, Florida soils are reputed to have plenty, both good and bad. That is why most roses have to be grafted on fortuniana rootstock, although some of the old garden roses will do well own root. I had assumed that nematodes weren't an issue with camellias since none of the Florida camellia growers had ever mentioned it. Is tip die back a symtom of nematode damage? I alwqays plant with compost and keep things mulched, which I know nematodes dislike, but that doesn't necessarily keep them away.

What specifically would nematode damage start manifesting itself as?

The other question is, should I just cut the affected dead stuff off and watch it, or should I cut my losses and take it out? I'm always leary of leaving a plant in the ground that may infect others in my yard.

Sandy

I agree. A one week dry spell should not cause "that" much damage. But one thing about watering.... as the shrubs get older and larger, they need more water but they do not spell it out for us. The shallow camellia roots could be reaching into uncomposted, unwatered and unmulched areas. The problem manifests as a shrub that used to be able to drink 1gallon of water suddendly does poorly. You could try extending the reach of the drip, the mulch and the fertilizer. Then see how the plant reacts. Or water by hand areas that were not previously watered and then see what happens.

Any chance that the two camellias intertwined their roots and this one's roots were damaged when the other camellia was removed? Is one side of the shrub more affected that another side?

Camellias should resist or tolerate nematodes but I have never seen a scientific study that indicates what happens if the camellia has an injury (where nematodes can gain access to the inside of the plant). As a result, it is an area of further study that is not well documented.

Have you looked at some of the roots to see if they look like normal roots do (white, etc)? Depending on the size of the shrub, this may not be practical of course.

Hi Luis. I really appreciate your prompt responses in trying to help me.

I have started to hand water in addition to the irrigation. We'll see if this helps. The other camellia was only about 5 feet away, so it would be possible for some root damage. However, the tip die back is randomly all over the whole plant. I looked at the bush today through my kitchen window (it's raining), and there are new leaves popping out throughout the plant. Would this indicate to you that it is still healthy, but just suffering from fertilizer or slight drought damage? I can't remember if I had added some minor elements to my mix, which says it can burn plants. Also, I should have applied directly on the pine bark, rather than moving most of it aside. The whole area has pine bark, although I do need to make it thicker.

What do you think? Would you leave the bush intact for awhile?

I haven't dug into the roots to see what they look like, as I was afraid of causing trauma to the bush. Maybe I should peek anyway. What's the best way to attempt looking at the roots?

The camellia nursery I spoke with said die back disease typically does not appear in a random pattern throughout the plant. Rather it would affect a branch here and there. Is this true?

Sandy

I went outside and noticed that the camellia I just planted a few weeks ago next to the affected Rutledge Minix has had a new growth twiglet turn crispy now. I'm thinking it may be a fungal problem.

Sandy

The fungus that causes camellia die back needs to penetrate the outer protective skin of the plant in order to cause problems. This can be a wound or a scar. Die back wound first cause the leaves on new growth to wilt, turn a dull green and then brown. The first sign of damage would occur at the end of branches near the entry wound. Turning crispy does not sound like one of the symptoms. Let me give you a link to more information on die back while I do some more research.

Here is a link that might be useful: Camellia Canker and Die-back

Thanks for the link Luis. That is what my leaves are doing before they get crispy brown. They look wilted, as if they needed water, and then dry up. Eventually, I can then break the twig off. I may have injured the new growth when I planted the newer camellia. I've also planted a small Tama No Ura that I broke a dead twig off. It's easy to bump new growth. However, all these camellias came from the same source, and I'm not sure who this camellia nursery gets their stock from. I suspect a variety of places. It makes me wonder. I also discovered in my web searches that there had been a problem with camellias coming from Monrovia at one time, and that there had been a quarantine. Perhaps some Florida nursery stock got contaminated and is spreading something.

However, I do not want to blame this local nursery for anything that may not even be remotely their issue.

Once infected, is the plant always infected, or can it be pruned away quickly enough?

In the case of my Rutledge, I did go ahead and dig a section of the roots and pulled up enough to look at the roots. This probably hasn't done this bush much good, but it may be very ill anyway. One thing I discovered is that there was a half inch diameter root mingled with this camellia's root from a Drake Elm we had growing 25 feet or so away. The Drake Elm was removed about a year ago, as we were concerned about hurricaine issues, our septic system, and the foundation of the house. Some of the elm roots keep sprouting and I have to keep after them, but I'm hoping some of them are dying. This may be a factor in the decline of this camellia, although the ones next to it planted at the same time are fine. Lady Vansittart is still the picture of health, but she may be a stronger camellia.

The other thing that I saw, although I didn't actually dig them up extensively, is that many of the roots surrounding the trunk are a reddish color, while some of the ones further extending from the rootball are still white. I'm wondering if this is root rot, or is this a normal coloration? The soil was not soggy at all. We obviously have sandy soil here in Florida, even with ammendments mixed in. The soil was still a nice mixture of sand and the compost/ peat mix that had been broken down. I did read somewhere that camellias can get root rot even if growing conditions are ideal. We have been extremely dry and haven't had rain in 2 months. I irrigate, but it isn't the same. I would still think this camellia would have adapted.

I am worried about soil contamination, and am wondering if another camellia can be planted in the same spot. I can't find much detailed information anywhere.

I don't feel our coopperative extension has much knowledge in this particular area. About all I get from them is the typical "canned" answers.

So far, I have gotten the healthiest, most beautiful camellias from Erinon Nursery in Plymouth, Forida. I won't be purchasing from anywhere else now.

1. That is what my leaves are doing before they get crispy brown. They look wilted, as if they needed water, and then dry up.

Do the leaves turn yellow and then brown? Or do they just turn brown?

2. Once infected, is the plant always infected, or can it be pruned away quickly enough?

If the problem is die back, the plant can recover. You have to cut above the injury and any cankers that may develop and re-apply fungicides like Cleary's 3336 when the plant sheds leaves for example. That way the plant is protected in areas where the leaves fell.

3. I'm wondering if this is root rot, or is this a normal coloration?

I could be root rot. I have not noticed anything but white roots from normal healthy camellias. You can plant others camellias that have more resistance to root rot in that spot or switch to other types of shrubs.

Have your ever done a soil test on your garden soil?

I have done tests in the past, and I test towards the acid side. Like I said, I've got many other camellias, including a couple next to this sick one, and they are superb.

So all of the roots should appear white?

It is possible this particular camellia is not suited to our soil. I'm going to check with Megaly Farms, which is north of me about an hour drive, They specialize in heritage ccamellias. John, the owner of this farm is also a vet, so is hard to get ahold of sometimes. I'll see if he is familiar with this cultiver and if it tends to have problems here. It is not one Erinon Camellias in Florida carries, and I know that Jerry only sells camellias adapted to Florida. We have all kinds of creepy crawlies in our soil.

In the meantime, if you come up with anything let me know. I also need to know if ALL the roots should appear white.

Sandy

Sorry for the delay, Sandy. I have had work problems that have gotten in the way. I apologize for not answering earlier.

The roots do need to appear white but there is a catch. Older roots will develop something akin to bark that changes the root skin color from white to a shade of brown. I have not heard of it described as red though so I called the horticulturist at the ACS and forwarded him some of the information that you have sent to see what he says.

I need to go now to work and will not be able to check on his answer until very late today but I will forward it asap.

Oops, he answered quickly. Here is his reply:

Are there any signs of cankers on the plant? Die back usually enters through some bark damage or at the places where the old leaves drop off. If the whole plant is showing symptoms it could be cause by damage caused very low on the plant. Usually die back starts higher up and gradually spreads to the rest of the plant. Dry spells within a couple of years of transplanting can cause the small branches to die back. If this is the case, the plant might recover in a few years. The large roots on camellias may have a brownish red appearance on the outside. They should still be firm and white inside when cut. If it is a root rot problem, it might be best to plant another camellia that has been grafted on a sasanqua rootstock which is resistant to root rot.

Here are some links that might help:

http://www.aces.edu/pubs/docs/A/ANR-1204/ANR-1204.pdf

http://hgic.clemson.edu/PDF/HGIC2053.pdf