Shade is ok but sunlight allows the plant to produce more bloomage so try not to overdo the amount of shade. A sasanqua or an early (fall) blooming japonica will work for you. Just choose any white that you like and that is hardy in your area.

I would research the growth habit of the shrub. A camellia that spreads may take longer to espalier properly but remember... camellias can live for centuries and become huge old trees if properly taken care of so, at some point, even a new lowly looking spreading camellia will espalier well. Remember to remove growth that grows towards the back and give the espalier several years.

The majority of the shrubs that I have seen espalier-ed were sasanquas but I am not aware of a reason that says sasanquas espalier better than japonicas. Unfortunately, sasanquas are more prone to the leafgall fungus.

Before I forget, now would be the best time to find (locally or by mail/Internet) espalier-ed camellias since it is blooming season. Call local nurseries and some mail orders companies. Include wholesaler like Monrovia and do not be afraid to special order via local nurseries.

Pruning is an important chore with espaliered shrubs. Do not prune now; prune after the blooming season is over.

Note: camellia stems are pretty sturdy so some people do not even use wires when doing espaliers.

Out here the main white fall camellia at local outlets is 'Setsugekka'. Don't know how it does there.

'Setsugekka'is, indeed, a beautiful semi-double white sasanqua that does well in the Southeastern US. However, I don't think it would be a satisfactory choice as an espaliered specimen. It's habit is too upright and vigorous to lend itself well to controlled growth. With time, 'Setsugekka' will become tree-like; and even when young, it is a tall, rank grower. It is, however, an exceedingly popular sasanqua that has been grown for generations.

An excellent white sasanqua that espaliers well is 'Mine-no-Yuki,' syn. 'Snow on the Mountain.' It has a natural, weeping habit, with slender, arching limbs clad in dark green foliage. It's stunning in flower when covered with scores of double white flowers interspersed with golden stamens. 'Mine-no-Yuki' is a superb candidate for espaliering. Its only drawback is that it tends to flower late. I think ours was in bloom during the last week of October, and it bloomed profusely throughout November. If frost holds off till the end of November in your area, 'Mine-no-Yuki' should serve your landscaping needs well. I think Camellia Forest Nursery may have a few early-flowering white sasanquas with a weeping habit. Check their Website.

In Lisa Albert's garden, she grows this camellia next to her entry way. "I planted my shrub where it is, not so much for the cultural environment, but because I thought it would look pretty espaliered against the brick column," she explains. It looks grand dressing up her entry way as well as providing a prominent view during winter when it flowers

Here is a link that might be useful: Camellia sasanqua 'Setsugekka' - Rainyside.com

missingtheobvious, I feel that you are overly concerned about providing your camellia with deep shade. Camellias perform best if allowed some sunlight in gentle doses. This could mean full morning only sun, dappled light, bright shade, etc.

Control the leaf gall by fastidious removal of infected foliage promptly, and by raking away any fallen leaves from the ground. Careful timing of fungicide applications can be helpful (as a preventative only); ditto for horticultural oil. Treat an infected camellia as you would a highly contagious patient. It's perfectly possible to avoid cross contamination if you are careful.

I wanted to add my input. In the past I worked for a lady who had an espaliered C. sasanqua Named Hana Jiman. It was on a north facing brick wall and right up against the wall, it was over 10 years of age when I started working for her and no one had pruned it because simply no one knew how to espalier. So I took on the project one day and cut it back drastically to get it back within bounds and to shape it. The next month when I was back the same Hana Jiman had produced lots of new growth so I began to shape and prune only to shape and get the buds growing in the right directions. So this went on all summer, I pruned 3-4 times come late summer buds begin to set so I ceased pruning except for any late straggledy growth. By the begining of October the plant begin to flower and what a site to behold. The whole plant top to bottom side to side was a wall of single white 4inch flowers with a pink tint. It bloomed from October - December. So the key to pruning is cut back new growth to between 2 - 6 leaves the plant will quickly flush new growth again let harden slightly prune again this can happen 3-4 times before bud set time. So each flush of growth will set buds on that growth then the next and so on for a continuous flushing of flowers. Come spring you can cut off much of all that now older growth and start over. But the regular pruning will cause you to not have to ever prune drastically. Now my question is why does it have to be white? Any of the pink, whites or reds or bicolors will be beautiful and a pink shade may compliment the brick color. Hope this helped.

I second the motion on Hana Jiman--it does very well for me and the bloom is gorgeous. Also, it has a naturally less bushy growth for me than Setsugekka (which also does very well), so it might be relatively easier to espalier. Can't really lose with either one, although in full disclosure, the Hana Jiman does get a few leaf galls each spring--nothing too arduous to remove, but I note that you already have a gall issue on the plate.