Peggy,

I grew munstead but also I grow french lavenders and yet another variety I cannot recall at the moment. My source of plants is Richter herbs which BTW is situated further north near Uxbridge -putting them in a zone 5a. For as long as I have the plants on a well draining hill and in full sun they do grow well. My munsteads have reached anywhere now from 6-7 years old and so i think it's time for a fresh change although I have been relctant to. I've managed before to grow more plants from cuttings and these do just as well as the parent.

Hi Ianna,

I did not know that we could grown French Lavender in this zone. Do you bring it indoors in the winter or provide any special covering for it? I'm really curious now because I love French lavender with the little purple petals sticking up on the top.

Do tell me more...I'm a lavender nut.

Cheers,
Peggy

Peggy,

Actually the french types I grow are Fred Boutin and Provence. I think you will have fun with the Richter Herbs varieties. Many do grow in zone 5. They are now in their 3rd year in my garden and are doing well. I want to get more though.

The way I grow lavenders is not to prune them in the fall but to prune them in spring. The reason being is that their branches do act like mulch to protect them from the hard freezes. Of course planting them where water drains out easily helps. I basically just let them be. I too love them and try to harvest their blooms when I can for potpouries.

Here is a link that might be useful: Fred Boutin

ianna...you've discovered the secret to growing lavender in zone 5a...the "English" varieties -- Lavandula angustifolia 'Munstead', 'Hidcote', 'Royal Velvet' are the hardiest of all lavenders. What you call "French" lavender is what we call "lavandins"-- Lavandula x intermedia with names like "Grosso" (quite hardy), "Fred Boutin" and "Provence."

I advise my students to prune late summer just after the harvest so there is a flush of new growth to protect the plant through the winter. If you wait until spring you often risk nipping off the developing buds and therefore reduce your harvest of those lovely fragrant stems! If you must wait until spring, prune as soon as the daffodils bloom to minimize nipping the buds.

Richters is a fabulous, well respected source for lavender plants and lavender information for colder climates in Canada. Also check out Ontario Lavender Association.

And, finally, another helpful site for information on growing lavender has a free mini course with basic information. (I'm partial to this one since I am the instructor!)

With grins, Susan

Here is a link that might be useful: Growing Lavender Plants

Hi Susan,

Thanks for the suggestions. I've been growing lavenders since the late 90s - but mostly munsteads. I've been into lavenders for quite some time and have been wanting to grow some that are akin to what has been grown in Provence.. I would like to get ones with blooms I can harvest for maximum fragrance and to create wands with. I do not own a farm here in Ontario so space has been limited to my front yard. Anyway, only recently did I try out the french types (although I am aware their heritage is mixed) I do have a grosso that Ive forgotten about but it's thriving in the yard. So far they've survived well.

I'm came to have my methodology because of our harsh winters and shorter growing days. I like giving my lavenders to good hardprune to keep them in shape but to hardprune in late summer may mean risking them to the harshness of our winters here. I've not observed problems with their blooms although I must say with age, the flowers are looking smaller. I'm seeking blooms with longer stems. Still I will try your methodology on a few plants and see what happens.

Can you tell me how long you would keep your plants before replacing them?

Do you grow the lavandin types? How deep do you prune?

Thank you for the links and pointing me to the lavender assocation