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joeb004

? on Sarrs for Clay in IA

joeb004
18 years ago

Hi Clay,

I just want to see if I've got your system straight. Let's say you've got sarracenia that is frost hardy. So maybe after the first light frost or two, bring it in and cut the all the pitchers off? I guess that leaves just a stubby rhizome? Does light even matter then for your winter storage? Or do you have it pop out a few fresh pitchers? Sorry to bug you, but I'm tired of losing about 1/2 sarrs every winter. Really frustrating since I can keep what are supposed to be some pretty tricky plants alive!

Regards,

Joe

Comments (8)

  • sarraceniahunter
    18 years ago

    What I would do and this is just me. I live in Mississippi so mine stay out all year. I would put the plants somewhere where they would be protected from frezzing wind. That could be outside with a tarp thrown over them for a day or two. I never trim my plants back until spring when new growth begins. It has been said that snow is exellent mulch. I don't see very much of that so I don't know. Sarracenia Northwest has care sheets on their web site with winter care provided on them. They say that their plants stay out all year without harm. Check it out.

    Here is a link that might be useful: Sarracenia Northwest

  • joeb004
    Original Author
    18 years ago

    Of course there is no such thing as a place out of the freezing wind in a MN winter! ;) I lose Zone 5 plants outdoors even when the are protected. Heck, even some Zone 4 plants don't make it for me (unprotected that is).

    Thanks though!
    Joe

  • clay_in_iowa
    18 years ago

    Joe,

    Sorry for the late responce, I'm busy planting trees right now. I had 190 come in on Saturday so I've been a bit busy at home these days.

    Any way, here's what I do. I keep my plants outside until, as you said, we get a light frost. NOT a hard freeze. Then I cut the pitchers back to the ground being very careful not to cut the rhizome. The plants then go in an unheated mudroom till spring. I move them in and out if it's going to freeze over night so the new spring growth doesn't get frosted. It's VERY tender and even a light freeze will do it in. The mudroom get's almost no sun and stays between 35-45 degrees all winter. However, when outside temps are subzero or we get a brisk East wind I have to bring them in to keep them from freezing deeply. I have had them freeze lightly every year I've had them with out any harm. There are several VFTs in the pot as well and they do just fine through the shallow freeze.

    My theory(s) is that:

    A- the added air movement aroud the base of the plant helps prevent fungus growth.

    B- removing the dead bugs at the bottom of the pitchers also helps prevent fungus growth. I've noted HEAVY fungus growth inside the pitches in late fall. Those half digested bugs are a fungus feast.

    The only mass kill I've had of Sars was a few years ago when I boned it and left them outside all night in single digit temps. Sat them out in low 40 degree temps, got busy and didn't watch the forcast. DOH!!

    Other than that prior to my current methods I did have trouble with the occasional fungus kill.

    The only other thing I can think of (right now) is that I really don't water the much at all in the winter. I check them about once a week or so and only add , a little, water if they seem a bit dry on top. I keep them just berely moist not actually dry. Again I think it helps keep the fungus at bay.

    If I think of anything else I'll drop you another note.

  • joeb004
    Original Author
    18 years ago

    Hi Clay,

    Thanks for responding. Your point B is an excellent one. I had already surmized that A was causing me a problem. I've gotten myself some computer fans from RadioShack (and some transformers online) to rig up small fans for all my terrariums...pretty slick. I've got some aquarium lighting fans for some of my bigger terrariums as well. By the way, my Neps seem to really be digging the air movement!Next winter I will combine this with cutting back the pitchers. That should adress A.

    I think you're right-on with B. I see no way to address this other than remvoing the pictchers; especially for those of us that MUST have indoor storage in the winter. Two of my pitchers don't seem to be coming back. Fungus definitely didn't get them; but losing the fungus battle last winter made me panic and then I think I went to dry for these guys. Is is possible that too dry of a winter storage killed them off?

    The amazing thing is I keep all these guys along with my pings and flytraps. Haven't lost a single one of those others during the winter.

    Regards,
    Joe

  • dnieter
    17 years ago

    Hello Joe.
    I have almost 100 Sarracenia and have only lost a few to winter in many years with the following:
    After the first light frost I remove the rhizomes, shake off the sphagnum, cut off all greenery, spray the rhizomes with SAFER fungicide (used to use Benomyl but can't get it any more), place them in ziploc bags with a little wet sphagnum and a tiny bit of distilled water, and them put them in my "Sarracenia refrigerator" until April. No problems with fungus, and they bounce back quickly in the spring when replanted. Only ones I lose are the ones where the baggies have come un-done or developed leaks and rhizomes dry out.
    This method also reduces storage since you don't have to keep big pots all winter. I like the idea of starting over with new media in the spring as well to get rid of any old pathogens.

  • clay_in_iowa
    17 years ago

    "I like the idea of starting over with new media in the spring as well to get rid of any old pathogens."

    HERE HERE!!!! I agree with that 100%. I usually change my planting media every other year. But I see nothing wrong with an annual change to reduce the chances of getting a fuzz invasion. Very good point that I just over looked.

  • corbeano
    12 years ago

    Has anyone had any success with leaving any CPs outside all winter in a bog garden for zone 5?

  • petiolaris
    12 years ago

    It has been done but it needs to be mulched heavily.

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