damp

Assuming the plants are in a pot with drainage holes, I try to keep a bit of water in the drainage tray, and add more water as soon as I notice the drainage tray has gone dry. So I guess I'm essentially creating a water-table a few inches below the surface of the growing medium.

It really depends upon what you qant to grow. Conditions vary with the type of plant. Some are aquatic. some like to be waterloged. Some are almost dry. Some have a wet growing season and a dry rest season. What would you like to grow?

I do it 2 ways- I have the bottom of one of those 'seedling trays' you see all over the place in the spring. I've some pygmy drosera & a bunch of baby sarracenia in there, all in 4" tall pots. (those standard 4" tall, 4" square plastic 'nursery pots') I'll put about 1/2" of (rain not sink) water in there & refill it when the level drops to the point where the bottom of the tray is moist.

Then I've a hanging pot- It's one of those ones from Rite Aid with the "thingy" (girlfriend's word) in the bottom so there's a water reservoir there under the media.
About 1/2 inch up from the thingy I drilled a few 1/8" holes 'round the perimeter of the pot.
Filled it with media & at first I had a little 1/2" piece of PVC pipe I could pour water through down to the reservoir.
That got plugged somehow so I took it out.
Anyway, I wait until the peat is still moist but starts to pull away from the side of the pot a little- 1/8" or so. Then I gently pour in the water letting it flood across the peat. The bottom fills, excess runs out the holes & it's good for another week in the summer, perhaps a month in the winter. The hanger has pygmies & flytraps & a nepenthes- I just scattered a bunch of byblis seeds in there.

Outside I've a pedestal pot- Picture the hanging one sitting on a post. Pretty much the same deal except without the thingy in the bottom. Holes are about 5" down from the top leaving about 2" in the bottom for the water. That's where my adult sarracenia & a few flytraps live.. Plus a little voodoo lily- I've no idea how that got in there nor how it hasn't rotted away yet.

So that's how I do it. The plants get to "reach down" to the water without being waterlogged. Seems to work.

Thanks, my vft which I bought at a nursery, not from the seeds like the other ones, has a problem, I think, the traps are leaning/ bending down and one of the trps seems to be curling up. Is this to much or to little water?

Here is a link that might be useful: Jeremy- moths and butterflies.com

Lightt is the bigger issue. Keep damp but VFT's should be outside to maximize light.

would you recomend direct light through a window (I have mine on a desk with bright, but indirect light), because I cannot keep outside yet, to cold.

Keep it in the most direct sun window you have and add any florescent light sources you can as supplemental light for 12-16 hours a day. Venus Flytraps are full sun plants that eventually weaken and die in low light indoors. Keep the moss moist to the touch at all times. Spongy and chocolate brown in color. Dry moss is light tan and crusty, no good for carnivorous plants. Moss that is too wet is dark brown and soggy, not spongy. If it is too wet your finger will leave a divot and water will well up. Moss that is just right will rebound when you press your finger tip into lightly.

In general, water your Venus Flytrap with a tray that holds 1/4 the pot depth in water. That would be an inch of water in a 4 inch pot full of moss. Make sure the pot has drain holes and that perlite or silica sand is mixed with the moss for drainage. Each plant has its own preference for water, so look up each plants' needs and supply them.

Ok thanks so much!

Do as Mutant Hybris suggests, until the plant is acclimated. VFT's can tolerate mild freezing temps, so it should be warm enough now to have it outside, once acclimated and growing.