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hikenyura

Leaves And Flowers (VFT And Sarracena)

hikenyura
16 years ago

i ve got 5 questions

1.My flytrap came with a flower but its doing fine now, does that mean next year my venus flytrap can survive growing a flower?

2. Cobra plants say that i can trim all the leaves from my vft and that i can also trim off all the leaves of a pitcher plant right after dormancy, is this true?

3.Does a pitcher plant usually die from flowering like a vft?

4. Is Ok to grow a pitcher plant in the same pot as a venus flytrap?

5. How long is a pitcher plants roots when it reaches adulthood?

6. I didnt ask for a sixth question, thats simply way to much.

Comment (1)

  • mutant_hybrid
    16 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    1. So long as your Venus Flytraps get plenty of light(at least 12000 lumens to full sun which is up to about 50000 lumens), soft water and the correct soil, they will flower just fine. Weakening and dying in Venus Flytraps occurs when they do not get enough light (grown inside for long periods of time under inadequate light) or other environemntal circumstances are off track regardless of whether they flower or not. Flowering just makes that weakening even worse. My Venus Flytrap flowered indoors in 12000 lumen florescent light just fine and produced seeds. In any less light, I would have needed to cut back the flower scape to keep the plant from weakening too much.

    2. You can trim the leaves off of your Venus Flytraps and Sarracenias at any time really, they are just leaves after all, but it is fine to leave them there too. Right after they go dormant is another time you can clip their leaves back to reduce the incidence of mold if your having trouble with fungal attacks. I just mainly trim off dead and dying material when I see it and leave anything that is green. When you see a Venus Flytrap "bulb" sold from some places, what that means is that it was a plant that they cut the leaves off of and send you just the roots. This will not harm the plant really, but it will have to regrow all those leaves over again if they were in the growing season. The advice of cobraplant.com is good; they are a respectable nursery I always do business with. Their advice is mainly to keep mold off and to keep your plants nice looking. After dormancy they can look a bit messed up with half dead leaves.

    3. Venus Flytraps do not die from flowering unless they are weak to begin with as mentioned before. The same is true for Sarracenias. Any North American plant, carnivorous or otherwise, that misses it's dormancy requirements might die from weakening next year after expending all its energy flowering. Dormancy is a rest period during which the plant uses the energy stored in its roots at a slow, steady level to survive winter until warm, bright spring weather comes back. That rest time became a part of their adaptation pattern so when you change that it can harm the plant at any time, especially when it flowers.

    4. Sarracenias and Venus Flytraps are sometimes found growing side by side in the wild, however, usually Flytraps grow on higher ground where the water level is lower. Sarracenias like lower ground where they can get their roots wetter. If you grow them together, make sure you use a large enough pot or planter so you can make a terrain feature by forming a hill a couple inches taller in one section so you can plant Venus Flytraps there and Sarracenias in the lower areas closer to the water tray level.

    5. Sarracenias all grow large rhizomes that are kind of like a carrot or rhubarb root. It tends to grow out in a thick tube with rootlets growing out from it. In some cases, if you leave the plant in a small pot, it will destroy the pot trying to grow it's roots out and it will be almost impossible to get the plant out of the pot. In answer, they can grow quite large if you leave them alone, taking over an entire pot after a couple of years. Many growers simply take rhizome divisions by cutting the rhizome in 1 inch sections (sometimes with plants already crowned on the sections) and rooting them as new plants every few years. For example, my S. rubra only had a 2 inch section of rhizome when I got it, so was probably a division. Now it is growing new rhizome extensions and trying to make new plants from them where they poke out of the soil surface. It probably has grown new roots over 3-5 inches deep in the soil too, seeking water. I would say that the roots would grow as long as they need to to find water. If you have them in a 5 inch pot, they will probably reach the bottom of the pot in adulthood. Keep replanting the plant in a new pot each year and make sure the pot is about an inch or so larger each time to give it room to grow. A 6-8 inch pot might be used for fully adult Sarracenias if that gives you an indication of root size.

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