Very nice! Congrats! I'd wait about a month to repot. Give it time to adjust to it's new home. You can use Long fibered sphag or 50/50 peat moss/perlite mix. Bright, indirect Sun. Maybe a little very early morning or very late afternoon Sun. Keep the soil MOIST. Never let it dry out. Any dead/brown pitchers can be cut off at the leaf tip. Misting is useless. 5=0 minutes after you mist it'll be dry again. If the air is that dry (say below 30%) get a humidifier.

Thanks for the pointers - I'll leave her be until next month so she doesn't get totally stressed. If I go with the LFS, do I just use that and not mix with anything else?

I did away with the UVB bulb and trimmed off the browning pitchers. Not sure about the bulb though, because while it does receive indirect light, it's not very bright. I guess we'll have to experiment a little. My yard is like a mini-forest. I left the one pitcher with no lid for now, but my guess is it will be the next to go. That leaves 2 healthy looking pitchers with actually have fluid in them and nabbed a couple fruit flies last night. I also noticed what appears to be new growth on one of the leaves! :)

I'll have to get a new gauge to test the humidity (last one got wrecked by my monkey-turtle, the brat). I think in the summer it hovers around 30-40%, but I'm sure it dries out more in the winter, so a humidifier may well be in order.

Any opinions on the aqua globe? It may not work well once I've re-potted, but I think whatever it's planted in now will work with it...

These aren't N. mirandas, but here are visuals as ideas:

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NO Aqua globes! They're just gimmicks. Just check the soil for moisture daily. Keep moist. Plain LFSM is fine or the peat/perlite mix. 30-40% humidity is fine, it is a myth that CPs need high humidity all the time.

I know I'm too late but the pitchers should not be cut off until the entire pitcher is brown. They still process nutrients. Try not to disturb the roots when you transplant. Transplant the entire root ball with media. Don't worry about the media that falls off during the process.

Got it - no aqua globes :) I'll remember about the pitchers too - thankfully there were pretty small so I don't think I hurt its nutrient processing too much...as for lighting, I think it may be ok where it is without the bulb, but will keep an eye out for problems just in case.

When I do get around to transplanting, does anybody have experience with planting in a terra cotta pot that is inside a non-porous pot, kind of like a self-watering thing?

Here's a link to what i'm thinking about: http://www.ehow.com/how_2074657_make-self-watering-planter.html ...I think I may have found the advice either here or another forum, but never was able to find if it worked well or not.

I'm also looking hard at doing this (see link) for my d. adelae: http://toppertwo.tripod.com/pop_bottle_pots.htm
...Of course I intend to "martha stewart" it up a bit ;)

I'm a single mom with a busy boy and a veritable zoo of critters (plant, finned and 4-legged), and want to make sure my plants are happy even if i can't check them every day. What do you all think?

I pot mine in terracotta orchid pots which are cheap at home depot. My mix is lava rock/coco coir/peat/perlite/ and vermiculite. I know a lot of people love sphagnum but I have much better luck with this mix.

Drainage is very important to Nepenthes and most CP's. I would advise against anything that doesn't allow for drainage. I understand about aesthetics, but the plants need to have drainage, air circulation, light, and pure water.

This is clearly ghetto, but the plants were pretty happy, way back when:

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My wife also has an affinity for the asesthetic . She bought me these:

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So maybe the first link (terra cotta pot inside a non porous) wouldn't be such a good idea? I'm reading the philosophy behind that one is the water leaches through the terra cotta into the planting medium, keeping it constantly moist but not soaked, which sounds like a good nepenthes thing, but it doesn't take into account air circulation (at the base) or drainage very well (but if it's not flooding the plant, it may not require that much drainage?). The 2nd one (made from a 2 liter bottle) seems to combine the tray method with also allowing for air circulation/drainage at the base and I was planning to use that for my d. adelae. If it won't work for that, I'll drop one of my philodendron cuttings in there, because they can live through practically anything!

I'm interested to hear input on this, before I go off on another crazy experiment that winds up torturing my plants lol :) This forum is great!

Stick with plastic pots. Nice set up petiolaris!

I can appreciate experimenting. I do it all the time. But like Edison. some are great.. and some are colossal failures. But that's why we can bounce ideas off other hobbyists to make sure we don't do anything that are setups for failure.