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adamski_gw

Need som expert advice

adamski
16 years ago

Hi! IÂve been trying to grow my venus fly traps now for a few years and I hope IÂve learnt all the mistakes  to be made now.

I have in my plant collection, 2 old venus fly traps (small miss-shaped plants), 4 new venus fly traps, (2 large and 2 small all seemingly healthy), 2 small Albany pitchers (given by a friend), and 1 english sundew (grew from seed this spring).

 I live in a small flat and have only 1 windowsill usable that gets some sunlight but only direct sunlight for 5 hours a day on a sunny summers day.


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new aquarium setup

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air flow gap (5mm)

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albany pitchers

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2 old (unhealthy) venus fly traps



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english sundew (from seed)

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new (from shop) venu fly traps

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currently housed in round fish tank

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new trap with little reddening of the trap


What I have decided to do is create an aquarium to home my plants, I have purchased a tank and made a platform for it to sit on (upside own) so that some air can flow inside, a 400w Hydroponic reflector, ballast, and it came with a 250w high pressure sodium lamp.

I know the dormancy period is nearing and need to get advice as to what you all think I should do.

Without advice I would setup the aquarium but purchase a much lower wattage grolux lamp (as recommended in a book I read), set the timer to give 5 hours a day until October, were I would just leave them damp and placed in an poorly lit place until feb-march were I would re introduce the lamp starting at 4-5 hours a day going to 12-14 hours a day during growing period.

Would this be the right way of going about this or do i wait till next year before introducing the lamp? Also will all my other plants befit form the same light source, and is the high pressure sodium lamp useless for what I am doing? If there are any hydroponic experts out there please let me know if I require a distance from light source to plants as my research suggest that other plants need this but I canÂt find anything relating to carnivorous/venus fly trap plants.

 Final line of questioning is, whatÂs the difference between potting my venus fly traps in sphagnum moss (which I currently have), and sphagnum moss peat?

Thanks for all your time and help (in advance)

Comments (3)

  • don555
    16 years ago

    High pressure sodium lamps throw out lots of light, but I also a TON of heat - I think they would fry things. I've seen them used in greenhouse setups (1000W bulbs), but they were about 10 feet (3 metres) above the plants, and you could still feel the heat they pumped out. I'd say go fluorescent - much better light to heat ratio.

    From looking at your old unhealthy plant, I'd say 100% of its problem is lack of light.

    During your simulated summer, I'd use 16 hours of light per day. They might only get 14 hours per day or so in their natural habitat in summer, but indoor lighting is much weaker so it's better to add a couple hours IMO.

    Sphagnum moss (long fibre sphagnum) is much better for growing CPs than peat moss in my opinion. Shagnum is the fresh undecomposed stuff you find near the surface of a bog (they layer where plants are growing), but peat moss is the stuff lower down in the bog that is fairly decomposed and dark brown and crumbly.
    -Don

  • adamski
    Original Author
    16 years ago

    Hi Dom, thanks for filling my head with more knowledge =)

    IÂve been looking into the lamps in more detail, and have decided that i will either use a metal halide lamp to fit my reflector. But IÂm still worried that a 400w lamp my fry the little things. The max range i can hang the map from is 3feet (1meter).

    The other lamp would be a 200w florescent lamp that produces primarily blue/violet spectral energy for vegetative growth. These give out low heat and can be placed near enough over the top of the aquarium.

    But IÂm still not sure if I should start this now, so close to the end of the year. IÂve read it can shock the plants, and i donÂt want to scare them (whatever that means lol).

    A final line of questioning would be the dormancy period.
    Most websites IÂve looked on say itÂs best to keep them damp but not sitting in water through the period of Oct-Nov through till Feb-March (while getting indirect sunlight / little light).
    I have also read that uprooting the bulbs, trimming of the outer leaves, covering all in a fungicide and wrapping in sphagnum moss and placing in a refrigerator over the winter dormancy period. (Seems a little extreme)
    IÂm presuming that the 1st method is tried and tested?

  • don555
    16 years ago

    BTW, I'm no expert, but I'll answer anyway :-)

    I think you will be much happier with fluorescent lights in a small indoor setup. I think the sodium lights are only meant for big open spaces, but with fluorescent lights the plants can often even touch the lights without burning.

    Dormancy - in their native habitat, average temperatures in January are a high of 13C and a low of 1C. The other winter months are a bit warmer than this. So the closer you can create those conditions the better. At an average high of 13C (55F) even in the coldest month, the plants may still photosynthesize and grow, but slowly and with much smaller traps than in summer. So you need to give them some light, or they will suffer (but they don't need to eat, and probably best not to feed them then). The fridge method is really only for severe situations when you can't give them any kind of winter rest, so instead put them into deep hibernation just a few degrees above freezing... in this case they don't need light since they are in deep hibernation. But this is really a last resort.

    Your new plants have probably been growing actively in some greenhouse somewhere, so you could make your setup and let them continue to grow for a couple months before doing the dormancy thing. If you put them to bed now, they are going to want to wake up in about 3 months, which will be late December, just about the time they would be very dormant in their native habitat. So I'd be tempted to let them grow for awhile now. And in your situation, it's probably easier to put them dormant in real winter, when you can move them to your windowsill and let the draft cool them down a bit to aid dormancy. Some thoughts anyway.

    There are some links on flytrap dormancy you should read at the International Carnivorous Plant Society website... there's a bunch of articles there, I'll give you one below to get you to the website, then you can browse around it for other relevant information. I think you have to copy this into your search engine, as I haven't figured out how to post clickable links here.
    http://www.sarracenia.com/faq/faq2460.html

    Good luck,
    -Don

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