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adamski_gw

VFT Dead leaf at the blub & tiny insects questions

adamski
16 years ago

I have Good news and Bad news, 2 new questions and 2 follow ups. Please can anyone advise me on points 1 & 2 (all images below are click to enlarge so please feel free to have a good look).


Bad news




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  1. Argh! WhatÂs going on??? This is the second healthy leaf die at the blub. WhatÂs the problem and whatÂs the solution??



    {{gwi:566102}}


  2. These little things are a constant battle. I had washed the roots of the plant below a few months ago and repotted in new sphagnum moss. Thought they had gone but.... nope there still here. They added to the poor state of the plant below and there rife on my supposed healthy plant. Gutted! Again, what the hell are they and how can i get rid for good? There tiny, i mean 1/8 of a grain of rice tiny. I have tried to use insecticide but IÂm pretty sure it made the plants worse and the bugs still survived.


Good news




{{gwi:566104}}


  1. My Albany pitcher plant is going strong and since housing them in the terrarium and the CF lamp the lip (teeth like area) is darkening.



    {{gwi:566105}}


  2. My old VTFs are on the mend (hopefully just in time for winter). The smaller plant is sprouting again (even smaller leaves, but ill forgive it, at least its growing again). And the larger plant is doing well growing large leaves but small heads, but again, as long as its growing im happy.



    Thanks for looking and thanx for all the advice.

Comments (5)

  • carnivorousplants
    16 years ago

    Hi adamski,
    those little pests are thrips and those are what's causing the leaves to die.
    There are many simple methods to get rid of them.
    Method 1-Buy pesticide and use it as stated on the can.It won't harm your plants.
    Method 2-Soak the entire plant in water for two days, but still give them light.(this won't harm either,thier bogs are usually fooded)
    Method 3-Repot the plant again.Hopefully, this time they probally won't return.
    - Adrian

  • corymbosa
    16 years ago

    I'd go for either Method 1 or 2 mentioned by Adrian. Washing and repotting might reduce the numbers but it probably wont get rid of them all and the problem is likely to return in a few weeks. All pesticides aren't equal and some can harm carnivorous plants. IME most of the organophosphates on the market are suitable although they can be toxic to the user and may be overkill for thrips. Supposedly the wetting agents can damage plants. I've used commercial liquid preps of malathion and dimethoate (Rogor) without problem. I grow outside so the effects of the wetting agents may be more prevalent in enclosed spaces like terrariums. Pyrethrum is good. Some people have reported damage using commercial preps, although I know plenty of people who use commercial preps without issue. I use home brewed pyrethrum without problem so it may be an issue with whatever else they add to commercial preps. I've used Imidacloprid (Confidor) without problem although some growers have recorded damage from this insecticide. Insecticidal soaps can be quite toxic to carnivorous plants. Oils can also be a problem (probably clog the leaves up).

  • hikenyura
    16 years ago

    My favorite insecticide to use, and GENERALLY safe for most cps if orthros systemic insecticide (formerly known as isotox), is systematic so it last for weeks.

    Just to tell you, insects can build a resistance to one type of insecticide so it's good to switch once in a while. Also some insecticides can easily be washed off like natural ones so some need to be reaplied (orthros systematic only needs to be reaplied like every 3 weeks)
    Some pest like hiding under leaves so spray that if you can.

    P.S. Your albany pitcher plant will look tons better if it was grown in more light (windowsill for example)

  • mutant_hybrid
    16 years ago

    Follow the previous advice so far as insecticides and techniques to rid yourself of pests.

    As Hikenyura stated, light is a big deal to your Cephalotus and Venus Flytraps. Low light is one reason why leaves grow in smaller and traps are tiny. In even lower light, the petioles, the stem that the trap leaf is on the end of, grows much longer and the trap grows in even tinier. Get some more light on the plants and they will begin growing properly and develop coloration. Cephalotus should have reds, purples, and yellows striped in patterns on the hood and lip and the pitchers will develop a reddish purple coloring in bright light.

    I had thrips in my Nepenthes soil as long as I have had the plant, but the plant is so big they can't do much damage. They eventually were gotten rid of when I last repotted. I used all new dry Nepenthes mix and completely removed all the old mix by soaking the roots in distilled water for several minutes while I got the new pot ready. I haven't seen a single one in the new Nepenthes pot since.

  • adamski
    Original Author
    16 years ago

    Thanks for all the info peeps.

    I have decided to take drastic means and do all the methods carnivorousplants mentioned, to try and prevent any further healthy leaves dying. IÂve flooded the plat, and I have ordered new compost (going to repot everything over winter). I have also purchased some insecticide from the internet on all your advice (though I couldnÂt find any of the specific brands mentioned).

    These thrips had originated from the unhealthy plant and no longer live in that one. I thought I had sorted the problem when I repotted everything at the end of summer, but it seems they jumped ship.

    RE: Light, this is an issue that I hope is now sorted. I have now applied a specially designed CF 200w lamp that throws out over 10,000 lumens, which beats my west facing windowsill any day. This has been on the plants for under a week and as mentioned, IÂm already seeing the benefits.

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