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Zone 11 overwintering saracenia 'Judith Hindle', 'Scarlet belle'

Alyss
17 years ago

CAN ANYONE OFFER ADVICE ON SARACENIA OVERWINTERING & EXPOSURE IN MILD CLIMATES?(zone 10 -11):

What is the temperature range/fluctuation and length of time necessary for dormancy?

I'm by the beach, so temperatures don't fluctuate as much

- Lowest night temp in winter is very rarely below 38F.

- Average night temp in winter is 45F

- Average day temp in winter is 60F

- Lowest Pond temp in winter is around 55F

They are currently in pots with wet feet on my patio. Older pitchers are dying back, but there's a lot of new growth on all four plants...(And it's a rare 78 degrees today!) I want to move them into my pond, but thought I should check with the pros before I did anything stupid!

Is my pond or patio cold enough for dormancy? If not, how should I over-winter them? And, what is the deepest they should be in the water...Feet wet only vs. submerged up to crown? (My pond water will be 10 - 15 degrees warmer than the night-time air temperature in winter.)

Thanks for ANY info anyone can provide. This forum is really great!!!

Comment (1)

  • petiolaris
    17 years ago

    Admittedly, I am not a Californian and cannot possibly speak from direct experience. Flytrpl8e IS from California and Xymox(?). Anyhoo, the same concept of question has been asked about VFT's: "Is it cold enough for dormancy?" From other hobbyists in California, ~LA->SF the response has been that the plants DO go dormant. the thing is, dormancy is comprised of several variables. THE biggest variable is light, or rather the natural decline of it. Secondarily, it is temperature. After that it is decline of water and less food. I can't quantify a pie chart but can only guess that it's something like 2/3 reduced photoperiod, 1/4 cold temps, and the 1/4 the rest combined. Granted, your local climate isn't as cold, but according to other Californians that have posted, the combination of factors for outside grwowing is enough. That's a far cry from the person who attempts to grow dormancy type plants in a terrarium at room temp and ~12 hours of fluorescent light per day!

    My own expereince with VFT's is has been to put them in a butter keeper in the fridge, and that is set at 40 degrees. It doesn't vary, however, and there is no light for it. Still, when I went from fridge to cold window sill to outside in the spring, it responded with flowers.

    That's a VFT, not a Sarracenia. Last winter, I had VFT's, a few types of temperate sundews, and some Sarracenias in buckets of minibogs for the growing season. They went from outside to a fridge to the cold attic, by a SW window sill. I watered sparingly. They experienced temps as low as the 30's outside and froze a little bit in the fridge, but the attic seemed to have stayed slightly above freezing, even though the outside temps were well below freezing. I lost the 2 VFT's I had and probably did so before they were in the attic. In February, however, starting with the sundews, they began to wake up. By March, the Sarracenias and cobra lily woke up. My point is that my lowest temps were not significantly lower than the statistics you cite, and are even warmer than what they would have experienced in their natural habitat. While temps fit into the equation, they seemed to be secondary to the decrease and then increase in photoperiod.

    In my non-Californian opinion, I would say that what you've got going, is probably close enough.

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    But please wait for Lois and Luis and... to respond!

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