Shop Products
Houzz Logo Print
pennys2006

advice on my new plants

pennys2006
17 years ago

hi i am fairly new to carnivorous plants and have started a collection so far i have

Cephalotus Follicularis

Nepenthes

sarracenia "hydride" (thats what it said on the label)

about 6 other sarracenias unknown varietys

Drosera binata T form

Dorsera rotundifolia (is this a sundew?)

Drosera capensis (white and red)

Pinguicula weser

venus fly trap

Ulticularia Livida

" Dichotomis

" Parthenopipes

" Subulata

Do all need to be stood in water 24/7 and which ones like it cold and which ones like it warmer,does any one know which ones will survie outside in the uk and can anyone tell me how i can make a small peatbog garden in a large container.

I also have recently germinated some sarracenia seeds in a heated propagator they dont have true leaves yet and i was wondering if i should remove them or leave them till they get true leaves also once removed them how should i look after them untill they are a bit bigger,

does any one feed there plants insects when there arent many about? should i find them flys? is it ok to feed them any insects?

Can anyone advise me on how to grow under lights and what lights to use i have never done this before so any help would be great

sorry to ask so many questions but i just dont have a clue

anyone looking to trade cp for other cp please email me as i have several of most varietys

cheers Penny

Comments (5)

  • petiolaris
    17 years ago

    Hi Penny: The Nepenthes, C. follicularis, VFT, and the P. weser shouldn't be sitting in water, or at least much of it. They need good drainage. They can sit in a little water, but I would recommend relatively deep pots and watered sparingly. The rest can have their pots sitting in an inch or so of water.

    The Sarracenias, D. binata, D. rotundifolia, C. follicularis, and VFT's can take cold temps but shouldn't be allowed to freeze. They can be mulched with pshagnum peat and pine needles. Personally, I keep all of those in buckets, like a minbog and then tote them to the unheated attic for the winter. It gets cold, but not frigid. Then when the photoperiod and temps increase, the awaken from dormancy.

    The rest of them do well indoors, by window sills, all year round.

    You can leave the seedlings in the propogator right through until next year.

    No need to worry about feeding them, especially the ones that go dormant. This is natural. In their native climes, they are resting and don't require food. If you want to feed the non-dormant ones, and this is not necessary, you can buy freezed dried bloodworms and sprinkle it on the sundews and butterworts.

  • hunterkiller03
    17 years ago

    One thing Penny,
    Just to add one thing. All Droseras are sundew plants but what I want to ask is. When you asked about whether you should remove what you thought werenÂt Âtrue leavesÂ, that worried me. What do you mean by Âtrue leavesÂ? All leaves are true leaves. Are you referring to the two small cotyledon leaves that first sprout from a seedling? DonÂt remove them! These tiny leaves provide nourishment for the seedling until it sprouts its first leaves.

    One thing I should tell you about all species of Sarracenias when theyÂre seedling, they all sprout tiny pitchers that resembles more like tiny Sarracenia minor. It may take up from two or three years for them to sprout pitcher leaves of their respective species.
    For example, I received a couple of S. purpurea ssp. purpurea f. heterophylla seedling from a friend that was only six months old. It was sprouting these tiny S. minor like leaves and it took about a year and six months for it to sprout its first pitchers representative of that particular species. So donÂt be discouraged, you going to need a lot of patience but it will be worth it.

    Another thing, donÂt be surprise if you loose a couple of plants. Things like that happen until you gain experience on what works best for you. IÂve accidentally killed many VFT, butterworts, pitcher plants, and sundews, after reading "how to care houseplants" books and had a scant reference on CP. All said i must put them in a high humidity terrarium, then watch them grow spindly and weak, and watch them rot away. Fortunately there are book from experienced grows now on sale in bookstores.

    So good luck and happy growing.

  • pennys2006
    Original Author
    17 years ago

    Sorry i took so long to reply not even sure if you are still looking in on post when i said 'remove them' i didn't mean the leaves i mean't the plants from the heated propagator.
    By true leaves i mean true shape, not that they are'nt leaves which produce food.
    I did remove them from heatwed propagator and several did die as i found out when i got some one else to water them over christmas. They didnt realise the moss couldnt dry out (my fault) they thought like most plant they should slighty dry before next watering.
    Thanks for input.

  • nepenthesfreak_2007
    17 years ago

    I would highly suggest the book Savage Garden, by Peter D'Amato. Not only will this book describe every species you have right now, it gives a guide on terrarium growing, with some pretty good ideas, and also tells exactly how to create Bog Gardens.

  • hunterkiller03
    17 years ago

    That clarifies everything now that you explain it. ThatÂs the problem when you post, I had made the same mistake too. One writes, don't proof read it and next thing people think that person is dum or misunderstand what the person is trying to say. I wanted to mention Peter D'Amatos' book, The Savage Garden too. I have a paperback copy when it first came out on '98 and it only cost me $20, now there are new additions and they go around $30. I had the book right in front of me and wanted to mention it to you but I didnÂt, some one else did it for me. Nepenthesfreak did it for me, thanks.

Sponsored