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| Hey Everyone!
I know everyone get's tired of this question but I'm STILL SO CONFUSED about dormancy! I'm going to cut the black leafs off my plants before I put it in the plastic bag with the soil moist and in the fridge (in a dark place). I got that step down but how can I trigger dormancy?!?! Here are some pictures just in case some are already in dormancy and I don't know.
(VFT & Nep. Pitcher)
(Lg. Purple Pitcher I know there in a wrong soil it's a mixture of peat & spag moss but I saw after I potted it has fertilizer I'm chancing it today)
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Follow-Up Postings:
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- Posted by justin1012454875 10 (My Page) on Sat, Dec 5, 09 at 15:46
| I just finished re-potting the plants into proper matterial! *Plain Sphagnum Moss 50% *Plain Peat Moss %50 (I've founded out my Nep. pitcher shouldn't stand in water so that made it have rot root I'm working on curing it now) |
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- Posted by hunterkiller03 9 (My Page) on Sun, Dec 6, 09 at 1:44
| The purple pitcher plant and your Venus flytrap do need dormancy, since these are temperate plants, growing in North America. The way you trigger dormancy is simply lowering the temperatures and lowering the time they receive light. You can leave them outside but avoid frost. Don't place them in the fridge right away; that may not trigger dormancy but simply put them in a state of hiatus. Nepenthes don't need dormancy; these grow in a tropical environment that doesn't experience cold periods like here in North America. Nepenthes grow year around in a warm environment with a 12+ hour photoperiod to develop their urns. Avoid cold temperatures. Definitely remove your nep from the water. They require humid media but not waterlogged. |
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| Justin, if you live in Zone 10 Florida, all you have to do with your sars and vfts is leave them outside where they'd be growing in the summer. Don't let them completely dry out. That's all. The lower temps and short day length at this time of year will put them in dormancy. |
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| Your mix is too water retentive. If you watered them in good then you need to let them dry. Dump the water trays and don't water until the soil is dry on top. You'll have a hard time curing root rot with that mix. Take the nepenthes inside and stick the pot in another pot with dry sphagnum in it. This will help dry the soil. Maybe use some LFS to sponge some of the water from the top soil also. Do not water any of them until the top of the soil is dry. Only use a half cup or less in each plant after the dry out on top. I know I'm sounding like a broken record but you can make this soil work if you are careful about watering. You dont want to repot them again until they show some active growth which could be spring for the temperates and could be 2-3 months or even longer for the Nepenthes depending on the severity of the rot. You might also poke or drill some hole in the side of the pot near the bottom. This will allow some air to the roots. |
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| No need to avoid frost at this time of year. That will help put them in dormancy. Remove them all from water until that soggy mix dries some. |
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