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thespirals

just bought a flourescent light

thespirals
18 years ago

Hi,

My nepenthes hasnt been pitchering probably because I had to move it to 3 different places to live. It is here to stay for at least a year now, but my east facing windows don't provide much light. Only a few hours in the morning. I live in the city, so the buildings are very close to each other a block a lot of sunlight. At least I live on the top floor of my apartment.

Anyways, My nepenthes and my orchid are placed next to each other on a shelf right at the base of the window, and I just bought one of those small metal reflectors with a clamp, and put a 23 watt compact flourescent bulb in it. So it is the equivelent of 75 watts. Also, it is warm light. I bought this light because it was on sale for only $1.00! So if it isn't a good light, it's no big deal, I'll try to find a better one. Hopefully this lamp will be beneficial to the nepenthes and the orchid.

Comments (5)

  • xpochian
    18 years ago

    correct me if i'm wrong folks, but i've always been under the impression you wanted to get a nice strong and high lumen light? i've got a buttload of low wattage, but high lumen energy saver bulbs, the twisty kind.

    my own new lights are 1350 lums each and have a 3000K colour temp, which is fairly close to out doors, considering. i've got two of these bad boys and two spiral lights with 1550 lums each and a colour temp of 4000K something or other.

    if anyone can answer thespirals, could they also set me straight? i'd hate to think i've been barking up the wrong tree.

    p.s. with all my lights on, my room is damn bright, and has a very 'outdoors' feel. just in my opinion.

  • back2eight
    18 years ago

    This is along the same line of my question posted. I was using a Sun Glow Exo-Terra dessert/tropical terrarium bulb that put out a lot of heat. After reading that it was better to use flourescent bulbs I got one but I don't think it is enough. It certainly doesn't put out enough heat and now I wonder how to heat it to the proper temperature. My plants were doing good with the other light. I might put it back in.

  • townhouserOnt
    18 years ago

    My Wal-mart's Nepenthes, looks similar to N. gracilis, is near south-facing window, lots of light if weather is good. Few weeks ago I placed it on the table at the window base, together with sarracenia seedlings, and gave them artificial light support when there are no direct sunlight - monings, evenings and whole cloudy days. This is working table, and I just turned on arm desk lamp with 23W compact (spiral) fluorescent lamp, ~4100K (cool white), ~1600 lm, CND$3.50 ea if buy in sets of 4. CFL is fairly close to plants - approximately at palm width distance.

    Today I notices that new pitchers are twice large than previous, size of small finger (pinkie?).

    The other factors may be involved: other plant has fungus gnats and Sarr seedlings and Nep feed themselves on them (not that I recommend that risk for the roots), plants are in sphagnum, temperature varies from 17C at night to 32C at sun, usually 21C; humidity 24-44%, misting when I am around, humidity saucer with water, no fertilizing.

    From common knowledge that I picked here on forums:
    - daylight fluorescent bulbs are preferred, if you can find them, this is 6500K; other are matter of personal preference - cool or soft white, or both.
    - Higher lumens are better, but require bigger distance from the plant. Last month is our area even HD started carry 42W CFL, ~2600lm, CND$13 ea. Hydroponic and pet shop suppliers can carry full spectrum CFLs at 7x price of cool white (CN$27 26W).
    - CFL may be T5 or even T4 technology, as opposed to T8 (1 in. tubes, most popular, T5 are even better) or common T12 tubes (12/8 in., least efficient lumen production per watts used). CFLs from common stores are less expensive than T5 tubes(very efficient, 5/8", thin tube, doesn't require replacement every 6 months);
    - in low light situation two side lights (from different sides) may be beneficial, as jungle plants receive light mostly from the sides;
    - heating of the terratium: incadencent bulbs produce much more heat than fluorescent. Just for heating many people are using set of four 60W inc. bulbs ( details can be found through search of forums, may be Growing under Artificial Lights, may be Terrariums), or ceramic heat emitters that fit usual desk lamp with porcelain socket, heat cables or mats.
    On the other hand, being inside enclosed environment three 18W T8 fluorescent tube kitchen under cabinet lights (CN$10 ea) produce around 30C or slightly less (I have other FLs tubes on shelf below them) - from my limited experience.

  • joeb004
    18 years ago

    Ok, here's the deal - with the setups you are talking about; you want compact fluorescent bulbs. The little screw in spiral kind work well, but I still prefer the compact fluorescent light strips used for aquariums. Those are a lot more expensive though. Standard fluorescent tubes will work, but they are inefficient and need to be replaced about ever 6 months or so. They also don't produce much light compared to compact fluorescents. Remember, if possible, get the daylight bulbs. Ideally, you will get temps between 5000k and 6500k.

  • christophe_im_free_fr
    15 years ago

    hello
    there are 2 important things about fluorescent lighting for CP's

    1) the quality of the light : you must make sure it provide enough blue and red light to assure photoasynthesis ; I use daylight tubes and it works very well ; moreover they are cheap (36 W) but other tubes with around same properties will be good.

    2) The amount of Lux that reache the pants is vital : you have to give around 10 000 Lux (or more depending of the type of plant) for a good start . To know if you're providing enought light you have to buy a Luxmeter and place the probe at the level of the leaves of the CP's. This way you will be able to determine at wich distance from your artificial light you have to place your Plants. You will also know when to replace your tubes.

    I personnaly use a set of 4 36W fluorescent tubes at 20cm from the plants...

    PS/ Of course 10 000 Lux is a start and it only should be around 10 000 Lux (9850Luw will be quite Ok for ex) and if its a bit bit more it wont be that bad either. If your sundew turns red too fast and start to burn it means the they are too close and so you will have to increase the distance ...and so on..

    IMPORTANT: when you measure natural light you cant compare it to artificial light : in the sun your Luxmeter may indicate 50000 Lux!! and you wont be able to provide such amount in artificial lighting and even if yu could it'd be quite damageable to your CP's!!

    Keep to 10 000 lux will be ok!!! some other plants may be more demanding but for most of the plants 10KLux should be fine..:)

    good growing

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