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trianglejohn

I have a new love

trianglejohn
15 years ago

I may have mentioned that I would be vacationing in the tropics this spring... well then is NOW and I am posting this while sitting in a charming hotel in downtown Mayaguez Puerto Rico. Tomorrow I leave this side of the island and drive over to the southeast corner and then I'll spend the next few days taking a boat out to two smaller islands beside St Thomas US Virgin Islands which are owned by Puerto Rico (Isla Vieques and Isla Culebra). About a billion years ago some friends of mine lived on Culebra so I know the area well and used to spent my winters down here helping them rebuild an old wooden sailboat. After that I go camping inside the rain forest for a few days to let the sunburn heal and then I head back to San Juan and fly home.

My two new loves are food (big surprise). The first is a Puerto Rican signature dish called Mofongo. Mostly I just like to say the word because it sounds naughty to ask for Mo-Fo at a restaurant. Mofongo is made with plantains (the big waxy green bananas you sometimes see in the store back home). I'm a big fan of plantains and cook with them at home if I see them for sale. To many people they taste somewhere between a bar of soap and a birthday candle but to me they taste better then potatos. For mofongo you cook them once to break down the waxiness and then grind them into a paste with garlic and onions and cilantro. The classy restaurants on the beach will smush this mixture into a layer inside a bowl and recook them til crisp. Then they ladle in a bunch of fish stew made with the scraps of whatever fish and shellfish was brought in that day. Lately its been Conch and some sort of whitefish. I tend to stay at the cheap seedy hotels, shop at the local grocery store for food stuf to save money and then sneak into the luxury resorts and act like I belong there to eat their much classier food than you can find on the street. My new quest is to find out how these people are growing cilantro under tropical conditions. It does have a bit of a bolted corriander taste but not as bad as any cilantro I've grown in my garden. I am a man on a mission.

The second new love of my life IS street food. It may be something that they only do around here because I have never even heard of it before. Corn Ice Cream!!!!! Sprinkled with cinnamon in a cone or a cup. This is the absolute best ice cream ever. I don't know how to describe it. The local ice cream vendor has all sorts of tropical flavors but the corn is everybodies favorite. Gotta learn how to make this when I get home.

I'm not sure when I will have time to post on GW while on this trip but I will keep you posted as I eat my way across the island.

Adios!

Comments (7)

  • DYH
    15 years ago

    Glad to hear that you're having a great time!

    I have a cookbook from a trip to PR a few years ago. There are recipes for mofongo. One reciped is Mofongos con chicarron de cerdo or Green Plaintain Mofongos with Pork Cracklings. :-) Another is Mofongos con ajo y aceite or Green Plaintain Mofongos with Garlic Oil. I'd choose that one! LOL The recipe book is Rice and Beans and Tasty Things by Dora Romano.

    My favorite was eating empanadas stuffed with picadillo. The best ones were from a street vendor at the beach (can't remember the name, but it was near El Yunque).

    El Yunque is so wonderful! One of the most gorgeous hikes in my life.

    Have a great time! We expect photos!

    Cameron

  • rootdiggernc
    15 years ago

    Hey John, wow, what a wonderful trip, sounds like you're having a great time too. Have fun and look forward to the pics. Maybe you should practice this summer with the corn ice cream and bring some to the fall swap!! :)

  • trianglejohn
    Original Author
    15 years ago

    I'm aliveeeeee.

    Finally got somewhere with internet access.

    Yes, El Yunque is magnificent. I'm here on the weekends so it gets pretty crowded but it is still fun. Remember the person I told you all about, the person who lived on the island Culebra (which means 'snake' though there are not any snakes on the island???),, well she eventually returned to the mainland and her identical twin sister moved down here with her husband - I am not making any of this up. Well, SHE worked for the wildlife department at the El Yunque rainforest so I got to see it everyday way back then when I came here on vacation. I've even seen Puerto Rican Parrots which are highly endangered. I haven't seen any this trip because their population crashed a few years ago and there are now only 5 pairs remaining in this forest.

    My fotos should turn out ok but I warn you, most of the flowers are not native to this island,, they're just your normal ol' tropical flowers.

    When I called my friend to tell her about my new found love of all things Mo-Fo she said that the BEST is the one made with ground up pork cracklins or pork rinds - NO WONDER I LOVE IT!!! Not sure where I'm gonna find fresh conch in NC but I'm still gonna try.

    The ice cream place was owned and operated by a Chinese couple (go figure). He said that the ice cream was made with the corn cobs cooked for a long time in water to get out all the sugars. You do use some corn kernels also but the sweetness comes from the boiled cobs.

    The sad part of this trip is that May is not the best month to be here. Not much is in season. Mango will be by the end of the month. Pineapples are available for have no flavor. All the fancy small or unusuall tropicals I was hoping to buy are not for sale - at least I haven't found them.

    I have so far been here for a week without getting a sunburn (record heat wave going on and a drought), thanks to some spf 70 junk I smear on religiously.

    Tomorrow will be another trip to the small islands and then prep for the big drive back to San Juan and hopefully a visit to the botanical garden.

    Hasta Luego

  • dirtrx
    15 years ago

    Well, I'm thinking that if things are not in season there is only one remedy ... a return trip when things are in season.
    Its neat that you have an insider's view and not just a tourist trip. I can't wait to see your fotos. So are you bringing seeds across the border? And where is Tammy? Southern Living just published a recipe for boiled corncob broth. It seemed really simple even for a novice cook like me. Enjoy and I'm glad that you are using sunscreen. A sunburn can really hamper a vacation. Shannon

  • DYH
    15 years ago

    Are the bromeliads still plentiful in El Yunque? I thought those were so beautiful "as nature intended". I also remember a very romantic waterfall down one of the trails. There may be many, I just saw one on my trip.

    Your trip sounds so great!
    Cameron

  • trianglejohn
    Original Author
    15 years ago

    I'm back now, but yes, the bromeliads were blooming and looking their very best along the trails. My favorite forest plants this trip and those many trips long ago has to to be the tree ferns. Imagine ferns with fronds that spread over 10 feet wide!!!! on 25 foot trunks!!! If you cut one frond off the plant and stood it up I could hide completely behind it (and I'm a big boy!!). I have tree ferns here in Raleigh that I religiously haul inside the hoop house each winter - but mine are the Australian Tree Ferns which have a tiny hairy fiber they give off when you brush against them which is irritating to your eyes and inside your nose and throat, so they look good but you have to be careful where you place the plant.

  • brenda_near_eno
    15 years ago

    Yes, we're hooked on PR too. We like the combo of tropical beachy and history in old city (400 yrs?) and fort. Streets cobbled with gunmetal-colored ballast stones of old sailing ships. Snorkeling and rain forest. It's just got everything. Yummy whatever empanadas cooked in open cauldrons on the roadside on way up to El Yunque. Picked up a nasty amaeba last time we swam in that waterfall pool in the rainforest, but hey, the emergency room at Duke is a wonderful place to spend an afternoon, lying back and remembering all the fun we had in the sun. We're going again in October. Conch is an aphrodesiac you know. For real. At least that's what the locals believe.

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